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R1100S Shock absorber removal

Hey all. Quick question:
How easy / difficult is it to remove and re-install the front and rear shock absorbers on a 99 R11S?
I'm getting a 'new' one that has the standard shocks, so want to take the Ohlins off my old one and fit to the new one. Is it an easy task? Any tricks / dangers that I need to be aware of?
I did do a search and came up with eleventy kabillion discussions on suspension merits / set up etc, but I couldn't find a 'how to' on suspension R&I (with my searching skills - in this lifetime, anyway).
I also intend to send the pair off for servicing before installing to the new bike. Is there anything I need to be wary of if storing the bike without shockers installed for a couple of weeks?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Old 11-20-2013, 04:21 AM
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The front I posted the other day take you longer to sort a car jack a piece of wood and an spanner to undo the nut on the bottom bolt than to actually do it.

The rear is just as easy,but makes life easier caliper off/wheel off(make sure you have a torque wrench) some pipes get in the way of the bottom bolt and need taking off but it's no big deal,if your the guy I think you are PM I'm in Great Barr.
Old 11-20-2013, 06:32 AM
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you are going to have to take the pipes off and set the motor on something solid to take the weight off the mounts. If you do this you can get the rear off at the same time. here's my solution, $10

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Old 11-20-2013, 08:09 AM
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my son and I did this job on my '99 R1100S - we are not "mechanics" but are a bit handy and we have some tools ! we worked slowly over a couople of winter days while the bike was put away - and really had no difficulties whatsoever - we definetly did not take any exhaust pipes off !

we put new Race Tech shocks on front and back - I recall that taking the originals ones off was much easier than putting the new ones on - I think the tolerances on the Race Tech's were just better and just made for a tighter fit

but, I would not hesitate to do it yourself even if you are just the slghtest bit "handy" with the tools
Old 11-20-2013, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLTZN1 View Post
- we definetly did not take any exhaust pipes off !
but you did support it in some way? you need to take the weight off the mounts, so either you support the engine from below or tie the handlebars and seat to the rafters. I guess if you had a block that slipped between the headers you wouldnt need to pull the pipes. I have also seen top flite mechanics support the cylinders with jack stands. lots of ways to get there.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:45 AM
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listen to shredder.
if that thing falls over you've got bigger problems than a dead cat.
it's a very expensive tip over, and it tweaks things that don't normally go awol.
i saw one in a dealership that had fallen minus front tupperware and wheels, from a lift about a foot off the ground.
broken engine tab, cylinder cover, bent front sub frame, bent rear sub frame, a tweaked fork leg...the thing was a one big ugly do-over that the dealership had to eat.

as the wheels come off, tie that mutha down somehow.
caution tape won't hurt it either, since you're the one most likely to tip it over.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:57 AM
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I did put some support under the bike at the front of the engine, maybe even on the exhaust header - I think I used a good bucket with a board on it - nothing fancy! but you certainly need to take the weight off the front, however you just need to take the weight off or just raise the tire off the ground a wee bit - and on the rear I have a centre stand and that was all that was required there

I didn't tie it off anywhere but I don't disagree that it would be a good idea if it is possible in to do so in your working area - I imagine just as many bikes have been busted up in the back of pick up trucks, on trailers and in the garage as on the street !

sounds like I was pretty loose on all this but I am fussy and was very careful and took all necessary precautions - been around bikes for 47 years now - this is just not that difficult a job ! not much different than taking the wheels off for new tires and I have done this a lot of times over the 120,000 kms on this bike

I do have a cat eliminator pipe on the bike but I don't think the cat would get in the way of shock remomoval or reinstall in any event
Old 11-20-2013, 11:18 AM
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Jeeze boys it would take longer to sort the tools and than do the job that's front and back because I've done it 20/30 times I normally spend more time looking for the spring loaded ball bearing that's pops out of the front one ,but the bottom bolt is covered depending on which pipe you have as for keeping the bike off the ground with stands below mine has been minus it's wheels for months on end.


Last edited by Chris Canning; 11-20-2013 at 01:17 PM..
Old 11-20-2013, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shreddr View Post
you are going to have to take the pipes off and set the motor on something solid to take the weight off the mounts. If you do this you can get the rear off at the same time. here's my solution, $10

For a moment I thought that was a picture about making a front sub-frame from milk crates for $10.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:23 PM
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Cheers everyone - sounds like a piece of p!ss then..... (famous last words, maybe?)
Chris, I'm not sure I am who you think I might be, as I don't know anyone in Great Barr - that I can think of, anyway. I'm down towards Harborne / Selly Oak, so not a million miles away (about 10, in fact!). As you're a fellow West Mids resident, do you know anyone locally who overhauls Ohlins at a decent price?
Old 11-21-2013, 12:16 AM
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If you filled in your profile I wouldn't have to guess!! you have a PM.
Old 11-21-2013, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
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If you filled in your profile I wouldn't have to guess!! you have a PM.
Good point, well made......
(TBH I thought I had. Think I'm getting old )
Old 11-21-2013, 01:01 AM
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I hope this helps with the assembly

Old 11-21-2013, 01:32 AM
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Be slow and careful removing #9. There is a ball bearing and spring inside it that will fall out and be long gone if you don't catch it during removal.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:38 AM
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No need to remove #9, remove the nut #5 below it.
D Man
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:47 AM
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D Man is providing the correct advice.

You should only ever remove #9 once in your life, lose the ball bearing and get
all frustrated before you realise that there was no need to remove #9 anyways.

Also if you upgrade to Wilbers you end up with a ugly looking threaded shaft
poking out, just take #5 and #9 and thread it on to the shaft.

It keeps the original look and tidies things up nicely.

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Old 11-21-2013, 12:56 PM
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Again, many thanks for the advice!
Old 11-21-2013, 01:12 PM
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Please explain to me how you remove the shock without removing #9.
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shreddr View Post
you are going to have to take the pipes off and set the motor on something solid to take the weight off the mounts. If you do this you can get the rear off at the same time. here's my solution, $10

I'm always concerned about putting that weight directly on the oil pan. I know it's not really a problem but i always fret about it.
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwillikers View Post
Please explain to me how you remove the shock without removing #9.
#9 must be removed to get the shock off. The shock adjust mechanism must be removed first to get at #9. Below the adjust knob and above the #9 is the part with flats. Use a 14mm spanner/wrench here to remove the complete shock adjust mechanism. If you remove just the knob alone, you will most likely loose the ball bearing and upon reassembly, the adjust knob will spin freely not holding the setting.
D Man

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Last edited by D Man; 11-24-2013 at 08:03 AM..
Old 11-24-2013, 07:57 AM
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