Replace steering bushing while I'm at it?
 

I'm putting on new shocks and was wondering if I should replace the steering bushing while I have my hands in here? 2004 with 32k on the clock. Not real keen on spending north of a buck-n-quarter for the part, but I'll go with your suggestions. No real obvious issues... but hey its 10+ years old.
I was reviewing some how to's for shock replacement and stumbled on a guy doing a winter refit and he had to go to BMW dealer just to get it out. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426644584.jpg

16 years on mine, no flat spots, no slop. I haven't replaced it. If the front feels nominal I say just ride it. But WTF do I know?

Ive only seen problems if they were wrecked.

I would not replace it useless there is some play. My top one was replaced at around 90K miles. It started clicked going over bumps while braking. The lower one, in your picture, is still going strong at 110K.

I do have an occasional noise on small bumps. I was certain it was a wheel bearing and replaced that as each time you turned the wheel there was a definite "Click" that could be felt down there not higher up. replaced said bearing and that noise went away. I also feel like there is a miniscule amount of play maybe not the right word but when I roll her outta the garage it just doen't feel 100% sometimes. mechanic says no problems.
seems to stear easy enough and it does not wobble or get wierd in the corners (save for my own shortcomings)... sounds like I'm talking myself into it. Maybe I should do the shocks and then see what transpires?

It might be the shock which is going to be replaced, but I was thinking the shotgun approach.

Looking on the net it seems like getting those bushings loose is not always an easy battle. :confused:

it is almost certainly something else anything loose on the chassis or fairing would do it
as well as or a loose shock etc

When my upper one was really bad you could feel movement between the top triple clamp and the top front frame. The bike would need to be on the center stand and then rocking back and forth to bounce the tire off the ground while holding the front brake.

exactly could be the top one for your symptom more likely something else, but the bottom
one is always loaded with the weight of the bike
top one just sets the upper geometry and steering but put it on the center stand and
bounce the front wheel in the air see what you can feel. front should just make contact and
compress smoothly when you apply enough weight to the front. no clunking

one of mine the upper shock nut was loose and the rubber bushings were moving.

I'll check the suggestions above...
This forum has been invaluable to me as a new user/rider. Thanks to all who troll around looking to add value. SmileWavy

We're just drawing you in. When your post counts hits a certain level we'll start breaking your balls.

Motoyoyo made a jig to hold the triple clamp and shaved down a very large socket to fit over the balljoint when he ran his production of machined tripleclamps. They made the R&R process markedly easier.

the official tool is like two big pins on a bar that gets put in a large vise
then you will need a long bar for the socket they are very well attached.
and the correct thread locker when re assembled

I saw the Motoyoyo's post and the tool. I think I'll just go with shocks for now and see what happens. This will be my first foray into wrenching on the bike so I am nervously excited...
I’m handy enough but figured it’s time to jump in and stop paying for things I am pretty sure I can tackle… OK it’ll take longer, but now I have an excuse to buy some tools!!! I’m going to do all the fluids as well.
How many posts are enough so I can start wearing a cup….