Bar risers

Josey · 11-01-2002, 08:54 AM

That geographic fault line known as my lower back is out again. While I love my SBX, she sometimes asks me to bend too far for her. What riser options are out there? I know Santa Cruz carries the Wunderlich superbike triple-clamp - I just can't imagine my girl with superbike bars.

My lower back thanks you for any assistance

Josey · 11-01-2002, 09:42 AM

Searched & found everything I need. Sorry for the waste of space (although if anyone's tried the Wunderlich superbike triple clamp, I'd like to hear what you think).

Rootboy · 11-01-2002, 11:41 AM

Depending on how tall you are, switching your bars from below the tripple clamp to above may be just the ticket. I am 5' 11" with an average torso and two back surgeries and bars above the tripple clamp fit me just right....anything more and your S will look like a circus bike..IMHO.

SCOTTinNJ · 11-01-2002, 11:58 AM

Rootboy is right. Why don't you sit on a bike with the standard bars? They are higher than the bars that come on your R11SBX.

You might even be able to find someone to swap with. That way, it won't even cost you anything.

Dave Hopkins · 11-01-2002, 01:08 PM

I have had 5 combos in order of height from lowest
1st (Lowest) is how my R1100SAL came, "Under" bar with 12mm spacer to lower it further.
2nd, Common "under" bar
3rd, Fairly common "over" bar (what i use today)
4th,an aftermarket piece from Suburban Machine that puts the "under" bar over, about an inch higher than the BMW "over" bar. (I have that and would sell, paid $100, sell for $75)
5th, may be my favorite. get a top tripple clamp from an R1100RS, "GS" may work also? drilled the two 10mm bolt holes thru the top and used a mid 70's Husqvarna bar mount (I have that also) and a conventional bar. I used Suzuki Bandit, just a bit higher than "over" but not as high as "GS". Stock cable work fine with minor re-route.

Josey · 11-01-2002, 01:29 PM

Dave:

This may be a silly question, but if the conventional bar was your favorite, why did you switch back to the standard bars over the clamp? Did you have any problems (bar clearance, etc)?
I've tried the reach with the bars over the clamp; better, but still not real comfortable. I do quite a bit of in-town riding, and don't generate enough wind pressure to "unload" my back. The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning toward a conventional bar (although I saw the bars on verholen.de - way expensive, but probably still cheaper than monthlies to the chiropractor

) Has anyone tried the verholen's?

Dave Hopkins · 11-01-2002, 02:32 PM

Joe
My riding may be the opposite of yours, I don't spend much time around town, generally over 70, so the slightly lower bar suits me, also my recent upgrade to R1100SAL has the Carbon triple clamp cover and I don't wana drill it. If you like I could mail you this setup and you could put it in place. I would not recomend drilling the "S" triple clamps as they are thinner than the "RS". I have never looked at the "GS" but if you where buying a top tripple clamp that should be looked at. You can Email me at DaveHopkins@Windermere.com

moose · 11-02-2002, 02:42 PM

If you have the lower bars, you can put them above the triple clamp and just tighten everything. You may need to reroute some cables, but they will be long enough. I've been riding 3 months like that. I have the Suburban Machine bar raiser, but all it does is provide a positive lock for your bar, and they look goofy. If you like them high, you can just rely on the clamps, or drill and tap your triple clamp to run a locking bolt from the top.

pdonnell · 11-02-2002, 06:47 PM

Here's an alternative that I would never try, but it may really spiff up your bike.
.

.

videoguy · 11-03-2002, 05:37 AM

Just wondering how you put the bars on TOP of the triple clamp, since my fork tubes are flush with the top of the triple clamp.

Clem Canino
2003 SBX

Dave Hopkins · 11-03-2002, 08:02 AM

Tool
The relationship between power and speed, (caused by wind drag which increase by the square). The effect of is if the aero drag of a given vehicle took a 100HP to drive it 100mph, 200hp would not go 200mph, that would require 400hp.
In all cases the vehicle is going to have a “Happy Zone” much below its highest possible speed. What we all blunder thru is finding the bike that has a “Happy Zone” equal to our quality time riding. What I don’t enjoy is having excess horsepower. It would be cool if our goal in life is to make a huge scene at the drive in, but rolling out of a 45 degree lean angle 50 mph corner with 200 hp with less than perfect traction is not fun
A wild estimate might be:
So if you are riding in the say 30 to 60 range you would be very happy with say 40 hp.
Or if you are riding in the say 60 to 90 range you would be very happy with say 100 hp.
Or if you are riding in the say 90 to 120 range you would be very happy with say 150 hp.
The “S” at something near the 100HP mark is a blast in the speed limit + 50% range so many of its happily reside.
I was a competitive racer for many years, (now 57) my girth is well into the mid 2’s, I can afford any bike I want and have ridden many more powerful bikes. My choice is the “S”.

moose · 06:25 PM

"Just wondering how you put the bars on TOP of the triple clamp, since my fork tubes are flush with the top of the triple clamp."

To put the bars on top of the clamp, raise the front wheel off the ground, then loosen the bars and remove the anti-twist bolts.

Loosen the triple clamp, slide the tubes up in the clamp, remove the c-clips, then bring the tubes, one-at-a-time, down thru the clamp and remove the handlebar. Run the tube back up thru the clamp, slip the handlebar over it, replace the c-clip, push everything down to seat on the clamp, then tighten it all up, tube first, then bar.

Turn the wheel side-to-side to check for cable free play. You may need to route a cable outside the fork tube, and cut some of the zip-ties. Mine is an ABS bike, and this worked.

The neat thing about this process is it only takes about 15 minutes, so if you don't like it, it's easy to switch. High bars are a good way to slow yourself down an average of 10 mph. Good for around town. Mine are down low again. Better wind protection.

Trevor Rossack · 11-03-2002, 05:21 PM

Moose has got it right. Because of the famed Telelever set up, sliding the forks through the top clamps does not alter the steering geometry. This is how the factory does it anyway.

Cheers
TREVOR

Micky Motor · 11-04-2002, 03:35 AM

I moved my bars from under the triple clamp to on top, and found that it was a bit too high for me. I also thought it looked ugly because of the cut-away angle on the lug where the screw used to go from underneath. Also the brake hose was a bit too short when the bike was on the centre stand, it reached but..

So I swapped the bars from side to side. Now they are about in the middle of the two extremes, and by flipping them over, the lug faces the right way, so you can just tap the original locking screw hole all the way through from the bottom of the triple clamp (M6)and put a cap screw in to lock them off. The only other thing is that the RH bar does'nt have any threads in it to attach the (now) LH grip to it. There are two (M4) countersunk screws that hold the grip on, so you would need to tap those as well.

M Motor

dsl · 11-04-2002, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Micky Motor
Also the brake hose was a bit too short when the bike was on the centre stand, it reached but..

I think you have to swap the brake hose on the SBX since it is non-ABS. Here the hose is direct to the calipers and it doesn't seem to have the 2" slack needed to raise the bars above the triple clamp. It might be OK weighted on the sidestand, but would probably be a problem if you install a centerstand or need to change the front tire.

Josey · 11-04-2002, 12:24 PM

Thanks to everyone. I think I'll try the bars over triple-clamp this weekend. Read a couple of older posts that state this works w/o changing the brake line; I'll give it a shot. Don't have the centerstand, anyway. Hope this helps; if not, I'll probably try the Verholens...

Dave Hopkins · 11-04-2002, 12:52 PM

MickeyM
I had no problem with the brake hose, however I have my brake & clutch levers pointed down a bit more than most. Whoever had that problem probubly had them rotated up more flat?
I had looked at the backwards deal a few years ago, I thought there was a problem with the master cylinder hitting the lump where the bar and the bar mount blend together? If it does fit it is going to move the rider back which is a sacrafice of front wheel feedback/traction I am not willing to make.

videoguy · 11-04-2002, 02:21 PM

Ok, I figured you'd have to raise the fork tubes to do it, but how does that NOT affect the geometry or front ride height of the bike? You are effectivly shortening the fork tubes, which decreases your ground clearance and steepens the steering angle, right?

dsl · 11-04-2002, 02:40 PM

Dave Hopkins,

Is your bike an ABS? There's more slack in the ABS hose due to the line feeding first through the ABS mech. under the tank before it goes to the calipers.

Videoguy,

Telelever vs conventional forks. The forks on our bikes are only locators. Ride height and geometry are governed by the single shock and telelever - not the forks. No springs/dampening in them, just lubricating oil and some extra slack.

Dave Hopkins · 11-04-2002, 03:20 PM

dsl
Yes. Mine is ABS