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diz plaz is cwazy
 
RIQUE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Tachometer issues

I changed the face plates of my gauges. You remove the needle with it pointing at "0" by prying under with two tea spoons. The tach needle pulled out with its shaft. I replaced the new face and put the needle back in same position. When I started my bike I noticed the tach moves slower than before and is not as responsive to reving.
Seems I de calibrated it or demagnetized it or some thing bad. Any suggestion on how to set things back correctly?
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Life rewards action, He who is not afraid is safe!
A Zest for living requires a willingness to die!
--------------------------------------------------------
BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-17-2015, 04:42 PM
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I see you
 
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no clue brother but I wish you good luck.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:48 PM
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Brent
 
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you probably tweaked the bearings or damping.
Old 05-17-2015, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIQUE View Post
I changed the face plates of my gauges. You remove the needle with it pointing at "0" by prying under with two tea spoons. The tach needle pulled out with its shaft. I replaced the new face and put the needle back in same position. When I started my bike I noticed the tach moves slower than before and is not as responsive to reving.
Seems I de calibrated it or demagnetized it or some thing bad. Any suggestion on how to set things back correctly?
I've been doing some research on this because I'm preparing to change my R1100s gauge faces also. If I read correctly, the shaft should have stayed with the tach actuator mechanism rather than pulling out (just the needle should have pulled off the shaft). I know it's too late now, but the general article I read on disassembling tachs / speedos indicated that you should remove the gauge cluster and gently clamp the shaft behind the face the insure that the shaft stays put.

A speedometer shop might be able to help you out. Another alternative is to buy a used cluster from Ebay or another used source. The BMW parts catalog shows that the white face Rockster tach should work (YMMV) and it's ~189.00 USD new.

As an aside, heads up regarding the speedometer, it seems that there are two part numbers for the MPH speedo unit (one for the ABS bike and one for the non ABS bike???). Probably the same for the kilo unit. Either speedo is ~400 new. The entire gauge cluster including housing is ~1100 USD new.

When all of this falls out, I might end up with a spare tach. The problem is that I will not be doing the swap until sometime in the fall. I'll keep you posted if I can let go of one before then.

I hope you have good luck resolving the issue!

Rgds, Fred
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Old 05-18-2015, 06:18 AM
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diz plaz is cwazy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldR11rdr View Post
I've been doing some research on this because I'm preparing to change my R1100s gauge faces also. If I read correctly, the shaft should have stayed with the tach actuator mechanism rather than pulling out (just the needle should have pulled off the shaft). I know it's too late now, but the general article I read on disassembling tachs / speedos indicated that you should remove the gauge cluster and gently clamp the shaft behind the face the insure that the shaft stays put.

A speedometer shop might be able to help you out. Another alternative is to buy a used cluster from Ebay or another used source. The BMW parts catalog shows that the white face Rockster tach should work (YMMV) and it's ~189.00 USD new.

As an aside, heads up regarding the speedometer, it seems that there are two part numbers for the MPH speedo unit (one for the ABS bike and one for the non ABS bike???). Probably the same for the kilo unit. Either speedo is ~400 new. The entire gauge cluster including housing is ~1100 USD new.

When all of this falls out, I might end up with a spare tach. The problem is that I will not be doing the swap until sometime in the fall. I'll keep you posted if I can let go of one before then.

I hope you have good luck resolving the issue!

Rgds, Fred

Thanks for the info Fred, I stayed up late last night fiddleing with the tach. I ended up powering it up to see where zero fell. Pulling the needle and shaft, re installing and turning to see how it worked. Trial and error work. Finally got it in the ball park with no more hesitation. Seems ok now but I will cross check with an outboard tach. Good luck with your project.
__________________
Life rewards action, He who is not afraid is safe!
A Zest for living requires a willingness to die!
--------------------------------------------------------
BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-18-2015, 09:27 AM
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diz plaz is cwazy
 
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For those of you that my eventually suffer my tachs same fate. Here is what you need to do.

1. 90% of the times the tach needle will pull out with the shaft. Make sure you check the height at witch it sits on the tach before removing.
2. Warm bike at idle and make sure what RPM your bike is at
3. To install back, lightly oil the shaft with thin synth oil like 0W20.
3. Turn on bike without installing needle. With a separate tach meter check RPM replace needle and install at that setting on the Tachometer. Or, if you folled step 2 just slid at the initial idle setting.

HTH RIQ
__________________
Life rewards action, He who is not afraid is safe!
A Zest for living requires a willingness to die!
--------------------------------------------------------
BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-18-2015, 05:49 PM
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Hi Rique, thanks for the info. A couple of additional questions please. Did you have any problems with the shaft pulling out of the speedometer? and how did you ensure that you put the speedo needle back in the correct position on the shaft (or the shaft back in the correct position in the unit depending upon if the needle came off).

Thanks in advance. I might practice on the kilo speedo that came with my tach.

Rgds, Fred
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:52 AM
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diz plaz is cwazy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldR11rdr View Post
Hi Rique, thanks for the info. A couple of additional questions please. Did you have any problems with the shaft pulling out of the speedometer? and how did you ensure that you put the speedo needle back in the correct position on the shaft (or the shaft back in the correct position in the unit depending upon if the needle came off).

Thanks in advance. I might practice on the kilo speedo that came with my tach.

Rgds, Fred
1. No. Shaft came right out. Remember use to tea spoons and wedge under the tach needle center.
2. If only the plastic needle comes out then put it back in the 0 position. If in doubt put it back in as described above with engine running at the idle RPM setting you checked before hand all the work.
__________________
Life rewards action, He who is not afraid is safe!
A Zest for living requires a willingness to die!
--------------------------------------------------------
BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-19-2015, 01:28 PM
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Hi,
Replying to and old thread just in case... I made the same error and disassemble the shaft, without knowing...
Iíve learned afterwards I really didnít need to for my purposes (checking the LEDs behind), but too late now...
Iíve been fiddling with it and testing Rikeís solution to no good. Does anybody have any other idea or a solution I could try to implement?

Thanks a lot!
XSrider
Old 11-06-2017, 02:54 PM
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