Replacing and re-programming ignition switch
 

So, good news are that my stolen R1100S is now back with me after a few months away, with the only damage, besides some rust, being the destroyed ignition switch.

It still works, but can be operated using a spoon so will need replacing it.

1. Is BMW the only source for these?

2. Can they be re-programmed to match the old key (that still is used for the tank/seat/panniers)?

3. Can it be replaced without having to take the top clamp or forks out?

Many thanks Victor

I havent looked for a different source,
they can be re keyed to match the original key
kind of path of least resistance, either the fairings or top clamp have to come off.
easiest to take off the top clamp, you will need to drill the anti theft bolts out anyway.
as I remember it there is a small set screw covered in locktite that comes out to
remove the cylinder. I might have a spare.

Thanks! can any cylinder be keyed or do you order it to match your old?

Never had the top clamp out - do you know of any source where the procedure is explained, video ideally?


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they re key you can order a kit from bmw.
top clamp is pretty obvious.
look on ebay for a lock

Ok, so a lock cylinder from Motorworks is £25 and it's programmable so that's all fine.

However, I don't want to take the top clamp/triple clamp/yolk off, looks like you need a special socket tool too which of course I don't have...

I had a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XFpwHyM3mc and I started thinking, considering the switch comes out without removing the security screws, could possibly the entire barrel/cylinder be changed the same way, with the clamp and bottom part of the locking mechanism in place?

This is what's remaining:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f1b475ef14.jpg


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no you will need to remove the security screws or at least take the tripple clamp off to remove
the lock cylinder from the switch housing.
it looks like the cylinder is missing altogether though.
and you just have the cast housing left and the switch on the bottom.

if you have a long drill you could probably drill the security screws from the bottom but
then you would still need to remove the remaining studs with pliers or the like

Correct!

I'm also thinking dremeling them out, alternatively cutting up a grove in it to use a normal screwdriver to unscrew it, anything to avoid the triple clamp....

Alternatively put a teaspoon in my keychain and ride it like it is - considering how easily that lock was broken and the bike stolen in the first place it's not like it provides any security anyway :rolleyes:

Sorry but in this case you will have to remove the fork bridge

Is it as simple as getting the central nut hidden behind the BMW logo out, and loosening the fork leg clamps on each side of the triple clamp?

In the video above the guy is using an allen key at the same time as he is using the socket to loosen the bolt - why is that, what purpose does the central allen headed bolt have?

And he mentiones a special socket is needed, does anyone have the measurement of this one?

Finally what are the risks refitting everything, can the clamp cause disalignment of the fork legs?

Many thanks Victor

Always interesting watching someone wriggling when the easy solution is just to the job as is,I've changed a couple of stock yokes for Scott's version you will need an Allen key on a long extension on a ratchet and spanner to hold the nut the only complication it requires at least 3 hands but probably will take longer to get the tools out of the box than doing it,the biggest hassle is thinking it's difficult when it isn't.

Turn the top yoke over and put it in a vice and drill the heads off the blind bolts,probably need to some heat to get the remaining studs out and that it.

Oh and don't forget the circlips on top of the forks.

as chris says the allen key holds the center of the upper pivot other wise the "bolt" part will just spin,
I think they are 7mmm a wierd size,
and the nut is like 22mm I use a deep offset box wrench
you will need to break the nut loose and hold the center with the allen wrench
dont let it spin there is a rubber boot that could twist.
Ive done several of these the whole thing takes 15 mins,
two allen keys on the clamps and the large nut in the middle,
you can push the fork tubes down and out of the way
you will want to support the bike under the motor the front wheel wont hold the weight of the
bike with the top clamp off.

This is what is underneath.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pskypxc6ec.jpg

You will need a 7mm allen key and one of these its a plug spanner with a hole though the middle says 14mm measures 22,if you haven't already got one buy a Halfords tool kit and then separate allen/torque kit because will have all the sizes including the odd ball stuff like 7mm,it's a bad photo but you get the gist.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psczifz0ze.jpg

Its year since I did mine and heaven only knows where the 7mm allen key is!!!

Hi all and thanks for the detailed replies so far :)

It's always terrifying going into unknown territories but I'm fairly well orientated around the garage and bike so as soon as I've understood how to do this it should all be fine.

I hate to bother you but have a few more questions:

Chris, you say spark plug spanner but they are normally 16mm, can you confirm it's 14mm? And that a 22mm outer diameter will fit into the recess?

How hard is the nut to break loose, don't want to have to heat it as there's a rubber boot below and I've got velcro all over the triple clamp :)

I suppose the nut needs being torqued when refitted, how do you do that considering the 7mm allen needs sitting in the centre - can it be held from below as my torque wrench has no hole through the head...?

Hence the Halfords set!! says 14mm on the outside measure 22mm and of course you need a plug spanner cuz its got a hole in it for the allen key

It's a two handed job because as you turn the allen key the nut goes with it and doing the two together is like patting your head and rubbing your belly at the same time.
:)

Here's the lost allen key.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psflcue6q7.jpg

As for torque? that's for crankshafts mate if you need to ask questions like that your not as savvy as you say it's a 22mm nut just lean on it.

Hi Chris,

I don't need a full set from Halfords as I have quite some already but will order the socket asap.

As I was under the impression spark plugs were 16mm I needed to double check, will get a 14mm socket.

I take it that as long as it's holed and narrower than your 22mm it should be fine.

Regarding torqueing it's something I prefer just to get it bang on, especially sensitive areas such as steering.

I take it you just tighten it hard and leave it at that right?

Cheers Victor

technically I think this is one of the nuts that is supposed to be replaced.
bmw has some micro capsule thread locking stuff on it.
but honestly I dont think anyone does, thread locker wont hurt anything when you put it back together.
the manual says

Fork bridge to front frame
(clean thread + Loctite 2701)...................... 130 Nm
they also say to heat to 120c to remove but I havent had to.
the parts are all steel there are several things that should be heated to take apart
but they are alloy.

Blimey your starting to confuse me!!

You need a 22mm socket with a hole in for the Allen key and I've only ever found you get that with a spark plug socket.

Re the toque without the Allen key in middle you could turn that nut forever it won't come off,just tighten it too taste,the only time I ever use a torque wrench on the 1100s is the back wheel.

Upper ball joint tools.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1464800774.jpg

120 is quite a lot but how do you do that considering you need to hold the nut with an Allen key?


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Getting confused too; is the nut 14 or 22 mm? Which equals the inner diameter of the socket (not the outer) :)


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How do you get the bmw roundel out without damaging it? Wanted to check if my sockets work before ordering new ones :)

The nut is 22mm you'll work it out when looking for 22mm socket with a hole in it.

Thanks Chris. And the badge, how is that one removed? Have tried some prying, but it feels brittle and I'm afraid of snapping/cracking it. Does it snap in, screw in, is there a trick?

you dont need to remove the badge
leave it alone, the ball joint is underneath it but you arent going to remove it from
the top clamp

the final torque wont move the center pin
just be careful to calculate it if you use a crows foot
I just tighten it

I'm referring to the badge covering the nut where the socket goes in this screen shot :

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...cf290b87ba.jpg


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that photo is not a 1100s
the nut is on the bottom under the front frame
the photo appears to be a r1100rs not the same mounting
look on ebay for samples of what you should have

That explains things - thought it was the same clamp LOL

Had a look at mine and I seem to have a 21mm nut, perhaps it's different on the earlier machines...

Regardless, it will be tight with space in there :O


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