Brake light blues

[bmarc59]

Could use some help with a brake light issue ...following a bit of work on the front brakes , including replacing the master cylinder piston , lines and overhaul of the calipers , I seem to have a constant brake light when the switch is on. I am running a Kisan SM-5 Signal Minder and have running lights and turn signals intact. I initially thought that I was not getting brake light activation and ran through the Kisan check list of programming operations without any change. Then , I replaced the Kisan with a Hornig relay and realized that while my running light function was gone(expected) the tail light was still lit and did not change when brakes applied. Checked wiring in the tail section , all intact . Running Phillips led bulb in tail lights and turn signals. I am thinking that for some reason my brake lights come on and STAY ON now. Should I be looking into the front brake lever area? rear brake switch ? Thanks for "listening" Pelicans.

[Lowndes]

And what bike is this??

[bmarc59]

This is a 2002 R1100S Non-ABS 71K miles

[darkonaut]

discussing a possible easy fix: troubleshooting rear brake light - it's stuck on

[bmarc59]

Thanks , I'll give that a study!

[bmarc59]

Success...seems that in reinstalling the brake lever I did not notice the switch contact diving under the "cam" on the lever.. managed to loosen lever and get it back in place...brake lights working normally now. Again , thanks to the Pelicans.PS Haynes Manual no help here..unable to find a diagram that shows the switch "in situ".

[Groceryrun]

Bmarc59 :

Great detective work.

How many screws do you have to un-screw to get at that photo point ?

Do you have to drain, un-screw the master cylinder lid , or empty the master cylinder reservoir to get at that photo point ?

[bmarc59]

Sadly there are a few to unscrew. It is not necessary to drain the master cylinder as the work area is outside and underneath the MC. Screws are (1) a tiny PH head that is actually inside the vertical channel that hold the rear view mirror on other R1100 models. On the "back side" of the of the switch cover another screw holds the cover to the MC . The real fun is underneath it all where three screws hold a bottom dust cover in place under the shift lever , MC and wire loom coming out of that space. Once off you can see the switch and the inboard part of the brake lever ; the brake lever is loosened or removed by an allen screw accessed through that area. I had the bike on a center stand and sat on the ground for most of the work ; a work light reading on the handle bars helped. No animals were injured during this procedure although some new forms of profanity were discovered.

[kroberts]

Questions for the OP;

In your first post you said you replaced your front MC piston. Did you order the "Piston Service Kit" part number 32 72 7 658 464?

Do you have to order other o-rings or do all required seals come in the kit?

Did you have to remove the "clip-on" from the bike?

I've been chasing a front end noise for months and that's next on my to-do list.

T.I.A.

[bmarc59]

I bought the 16mm Magura rebuild kit from Beemerboneyard...it has the piston gaskets installed with spring. I ordered a new circlip and end boot from MaxBMW. I ended up using Motion Pro 90 degree circlip pliers to reinstall clip as it must set into a groove recessed into the piston and the piston must be held against its spring to install . Used headlamp and a 6 inch 1/4 " drive socket extension to depress the piston and finagle the clip in. It took many tries....it was HARD...I wanted veterinary grade tranquilizers by the time I finally got it in. I loosened the MC and rotated it slightly on the bars , grips off . Let me know if I can help further and good luck.