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This all assumes the stud doesn't move or the structure etc deflect as the big nut is tightened, which I think is a questionable assumption.

Personally I adjust the stud & nut until I can just barely feel the clearance with my finger tips bridging between the elements. The load angle on those tapered roller bearings is so shallow that they really can't take much preload excess at all without brinelling. So I just deliberately set them a trifle loose. I can't feel the change in handling.

Some guys set the combo so that the swing arm drops from its own weight - which I also think is a good way to do it if the FD isn't attached.
Old 05-06-2018, 06:30 PM
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Wiring & Final Drive Shenanigans

Saturday was wire re-wrapping day. I used cold-shrink tape and/or electrical friction tape, depending. A couple more rookie errors to confess here:

1. Best time to do the wire re-wrapping would have been while the tail was still up in the air, but I think that once I had the clutch back in, I was anxious to see some driveline progress and got a little ahead of myself (a few times). So, I had less working room in some areas than I might have, had I done the rewrapping earlier.

2. Cold-shrink tape likely works best if one takes the backing strip off first. Had a couple of do-overs because of that.

Today was final drive day. We tried a bunch of times to get the drive splines into the driveshaft, without success. The angle was wrong. Frustrated, we considered how we might change the position of that drive shaft end, four or five inches back in the swingarm there....

Trick: What finally worked was rolling up a rag to raise and position the end of the shaft in the swingarm, so that the final drive's splines were at the same angle as the driveshaft's opening. We left the rag's tail hanging down and out of the bottom end of the swingarm, so that we could pull it out later.

This trick worked. I held the drive, and lined up the Sharpie marks in the flashlight beam, Diane tickled the wheel lug nuts just a bit, and the drive slid onto the driveshaft. We pulled out the rag, got the fasteners lined up with the openings correctly, applied Loctite, and torqued things up according to the manual.

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Dana in Philly
2000 Mandarin R1100S Garage Queen

Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-13-2018 at 12:01 PM..
Old 05-13-2018, 11:55 AM
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Next up:

- Rear wheel
- Rear brake, and bleed and refill that system and the front while I'm at it (will replace the brake lines next winter; decided to wait on that to save funds).
- Rear hugger

I suppose once I get two wheels back on the thing, I could take it off the stand, and not have straps getting in the say when I reinstall the exhaust system.
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Dana in Philly
2000 Mandarin R1100S Garage Queen

Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-13-2018 at 12:10 PM..
Old 05-13-2018, 11:58 AM
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Beautiful job D!
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Old 05-13-2018, 07:34 PM
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Back on Two Wheels

Last night we mounted the rear wheel, and then took Garage Queen off the wooden stand, rocking her up onto the center stand.



Getting the wheel on presented interesting challenges. The rear drive was too low to simply pop the wheel hub on. I guess the shock was fully extended. Here's what we did:

- Tried dialing up the rear shock's preload. Didn't help. Still too low.

- Thought about putting tie down straps around the bottom of the swingarm and the top of the subframe and trying to tighten up, compress the shock, raise the swingarm that way, but decided I might just as easily bend the subframe. So didn't go that way....

- Put a jack under the rear drive drain bolt (with a rag cushion). Better, but the jack foot was in the way of the tire.

- Put the jack under the center stand crossbar (rag cushion). This worked -- although I suspect we were pivoting the bike's center of mass on the wooden frame, maybe compressing the front spring a little as we did this. This totally gave me the heebie jeebies, thinking the bike was going to become unbalanced, so I had Jace get way out of the way, and had Diane spot the bike from the front handlebars.

Who's got a better way to do this?

Anyway, she's off the wood stand for the first time in a year.
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Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-15-2018 at 03:38 AM..
Old 05-15-2018, 03:30 AM
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Putting some wood blocks under the center stand feet worked for me.

If you get too high on the "boosters", you'll need to put a strap between the center stand and front wheel.
Old 05-15-2018, 04:17 AM
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Wood blocks under the centerstand legs always work for me... tip the bike to one side at a time, multiple blocks of wood if needed.
I put a wheel chock in front of the front tire if worried about the bike rolling while on the raised centerstand.
Old 05-15-2018, 12:34 PM
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Various bits going on this weekend; rear brake, hugger, shifter linkage with those damned foam doodads, airbox and scoop, battery compartment, wires....



Can someone confirm my wire routing for the left side?



I think I've got the side stand switch correct, but am not sure about the other little one that connects to that nub near the oil sightglass. Didn't seem to be enough slack to run that one behind the starter motor like the side stand switch wire.
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Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-22-2018 at 06:44 AM..
Old 05-19-2018, 02:39 PM
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Typically, that oil pressure sender wire would be routed behind the starter, like the sidestand switch. Doesn’t make a whole lot of difference, as long as it’s connected, but if it were me I’d try to find some slack and re-route it.
Old 05-19-2018, 08:55 PM
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Thanks. I'll re-route it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by punkassjim View Post
Typically, that oil pressure sender wire would be routed behind the starter, like the sidestand switch. Doesnít make a whole lot of difference, as long as itís connected, but if it were me Iíd try to find some slack and re-route it.
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Old 05-20-2018, 04:45 AM
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Low Left Side Wiring Routing

There:



That's a little more sano. I was able to string a small zip tie around the bottom starter cover post too.
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Old 05-20-2018, 07:14 AM
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Home Stretch?

Next up: exhaust system, new battery (the old one's negative pole is pushin' out white crust when connected to the charger, so I think it's toast), fuel filter, then the fuel tank. Still gotta bleed the brakes, but that's simple enough.

I think I'm just gonna go with small hose clamps rather than oetiker clamps for the various fuel and vent lines to the tank -- and I'll try that trick I've seen elsewhere on the forum, where you rest the fuel tank cushioned on the right cylinder, with various strapping to keep it still while you connect the lines.

Getting pretty close to turning the key to see if it starts.
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Old 05-20-2018, 08:02 AM
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Looks like the oil needs a wee top up as well!
Good luck with the remaining jobs. This thread has been interesting reading with good photos. I just hope I never have to use it as a reference on my bike. It’s more than I could cope with!
Old 05-21-2018, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfa145V6 View Post
... with good photos.
As long as you don't use Photobucket .

There are a lot of pics gone forever.
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:00 AM
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Man, I can’t believe how patient you are. The last half-dozen updates, I’d have tried to hammer through in a day so I could take it for a ride (even without the Tupperware).

As for the fuel tank, inspect the supply/return hoses thoroughly. If they’re cracked AT ALL at the ends, get some replacement hose. Worm-drive clamps are fine, but brittle fuel line can result in a burned-up bike. Don’t ask me how I know.

And don’t bother resting the tank on the cylinder, you won’t need to. Re-connecting the lines is easy when the tank is in situ. Resting the tank on the cylinder is only handy when you wanna do battery/ABS repairs without disconnecting the lines.
Old 05-22-2018, 12:03 AM
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It's less patience than a lack of time. This has gotta fit into my schedule, and I've got an attention hungry five year old, so ... the bike gets a little here, a little there. Also, the funds come a little at a time too. Finally, this isn't familiar terrain to me, so I have to take it slow, sometimes do things over again (e.g., clutch rod, slave cylinder vent hose position -- for both I had to hike the tail up a bit again).

The sectarian disputes about cause (too short trans input shaft faction versus mis-alignment faction) aside, y'all have been great with the support and responses to my questions -- and I thank you for it.
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2000 Mandarin R1100S Garage Queen

Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-22-2018 at 06:45 AM..
Old 05-22-2018, 05:40 AM
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In my experience, if I top it up to the center dot, the bike just burns it away down to the level you see there. Seems to be this bike's comfy place.... Of course, I'm not afraid to rev the thing up.

That said, last step will be to change all fluids.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfa145V6 View Post
Looks like the oil needs a wee top up as well!
Good luck with the remaining jobs. This thread has been interesting reading with good photos. I just hope I never have to use it as a reference on my bike. It’s more than I could cope with!
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Old 05-22-2018, 05:43 AM
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I was thinking the oil level looked perfect :-)
Old 05-22-2018, 12:10 PM
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