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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana in Philly View Post

No Clymer manual for this model, it seems, from my googling.
There is a Clymer manual for this. I have 2 of them. I keep one in the garage and one in my office.

I'll find a link and post it for you.

Rob.
Old 04-23-2017, 04:36 AM
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Well, here's how far I got today:

Stand done.



Teardown begins.



A few hours later:



Gettin' that tank off is a pain, innit? Difficult to get all the gas out of it.
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Old 04-23-2017, 02:32 PM
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Gotta get some decent hose clamps at Pep Boys tomorrow morning.



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Old 04-23-2017, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana in Philly View Post
RBMann, re the pages you scanned:

I wasn't planning to disassemble the driveshaft and final drive, but rather, was planning to disconnect and swing the driveline (from the transmission back to the rear wheel) out to the right, a la Chris Harris' video here:

https://youtu.be/-PdVvxMwz_A

That's doable for the R1100S, correct?
Yes doable but akward to reposition. I could not get the driveshaft clipped back on the transmission output shaft when I tried it. I would remove the rear wheel at a minimum so you have less weight to move around.

Good luck.
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Old 04-23-2017, 02:54 PM
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Here is a link for the Clymer manual on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=311850896148&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

This is the exact one I have. It covers many models. You have to find what you need. It is usually there.
Old 04-23-2017, 03:01 PM
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Hi Dana,

The transmission has to be repaired or replaced anyway. You might as well separate everything on the way out. That makes the R&R process lighter and easier. If you haven't done this before you will need a heat gun, a 30 mm socket, a 12 mm hex socket, a big breaker bar, a big torque wrench, and some wire brushes.

Here's something to ponder as you do this. You are supposed to assemble the swingarm and final drive with super duper locktite. That's why you need the heat gun and wire brushes the first time you take it apart. i'd venture to guess that most folks do not use the super locktite when they reassemble the driveline. Most use good ol' blue locktite. Some don't use any at all. I'm in the blue locktite group.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:20 AM
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So, here's where I am today:



And I believe the next step is to remove the catalytic converter and muffler up-pipe. At this point, I've a question or two for the hive mind:


1. It looks like the muffler's female connection to the male end of the up-pipe overlaps the up-pipe to some extent.



Not sure how much, but it seems to me that now I need to loosen the muffler, at least enough to pull it off the end of the up-pipe, to free it for removal. Can someone confirm?




2. The oxygen sensor on the front end of the catalytic converter. Geez, that's a tight spot to get to. Looks like a 20mm open-end wrench would fit. Do you folks usually pull the cat back a little, clearing the rubber grommets, to get a little more room to access that sensor?



TIA
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:13 PM
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You can leave the muffler on. First unplug the O2 sensor wire and snake the wire out so it can go with the CAT. Once you have done that, spray a lube or penetrating oil on the muffle/Cat junction. By twisting l-r it while pulling down it should come apart and then you leave the muffler hanging on the sub-frame.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:37 PM
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Ahh. OK, I'll trace the sensor wire back to its plug and unplug it. More fun 'n' games tomorrow.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:55 PM
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Dana,
Thanks for the detail and pictures. This will be another valuable contribution to the board!
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Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 04-30-2017, 05:39 AM
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Before you start tearing into it, check your U-joint. Mine exploded.

Final drive u-joint failure

However, if it is a spline problem, I have a complete transmission with good spline sitting in my garage (if you are interested).
Old 04-30-2017, 05:55 AM
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dana, not to hijack the thread too badly, but could you post a pic or two of your valve covers? are they painted or powdercoated?
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:33 AM
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Dana - before you proceed, take a look at my son Tim in his back garden doing this job on a sunny day w'out a bike lift or any kind of stand, unaided. Ignore the first 2˝ mins at the start where he's taking off the weird aftermarket German front fairing that a previous owner had paid a grand for - silly boy.
At least this vid will show you where everything was before you started wrenching - except that UK bikes have none of that foolish charcoal filter business to discard...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egZyER5Sn7E
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:33 AM
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And when splitting the bike for the clutch spacer and new slave cylinder job, there's no need to separate the gearbox / swingarm, 'cos as you see in Tim's video, you can wheel the entire 76kg unit backwards away from the clutch using just a trolley jack and the still-installed back wheel.
Ignore the first 2˝ mins where he's removing the odd front fairing...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egZyER5Sn7E
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkonaut View Post
dana, not to hijack the thread too badly, but could you post a pic or two of your valve covers? are they painted or powdercoated?

The valve covers are bare magnesium -- and some road grit.

I had some bubbles in the paint (see thread here):

What's this cylinder head wart?

so I had the valve covers chemically stripped. Roland at Spare Parts in Philly told me the stripper said they were a PITA to strip, and not to bring him any of those again.

I think they look kinda cool/rough (like old sand-cast Laverdas or something), so I haven't bothered to repaint 'em.





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Last edited by Dana in Philly; 04-30-2017 at 02:08 PM..
Old 04-30-2017, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coconutmilk View Post
[I]f it is a spline problem, I have a complete transmission with good spline sitting in my garage (if you are interested).
Haven't gotten to that area yet. We'll see.
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:05 PM
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This afternoon's progress (didn't have a full day at it) ...

My assistant this afternoon:





He especially liked the flashlight, peaking at how the muffler is mounted.

Not entirely clear from the service manual, but it hangs from two rubber grommeted inverted U-shaped hanger mounts, on rear facing pins, near the aft end. WD-40 liberally, a few smacks with a plastic headed mallet, stand behind the bike, place your hands on the front of the cans, and pull back, then down, and it's free of the cat up-pipe.

Off pops the muffler, and the cat slides right out. The muffler is the heavier of the two pieces, which was unexpected.



Next we pulled the the shock, bottom mounting bolt first.



Had to move that relocated charcoal canister out of the way of the top of the shock.
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:22 PM
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So, here we arrive at a decision point:

1. Try to take off the swingarm/driveshaft/rear drive as a unit, then pivot up the frame; OR

2. Disassemble and inspect the driveline. I think the order would be: (a) rear wheel drive; (b) driveshaft; (c) swingarm. Then pivot up the frame.

I believe path #1 means my next disassembly is the swingarm pivots L & R, then the trans/driveshaft connection.

Path #2 means my next disassembly is the rear wheel drive.

Comments and suggestions?
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Old 04-30-2017, 01:40 PM
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#2 for me, as I mentioned in my earlier reply. You may have a bad u-joint. No need to go all the way in if it's only the u-joint.
Old 04-30-2017, 02:07 PM
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Broken driveshaft would not make noises while the bike is running, in neutral and not moving. Don't touch the shaft, or touch it if you want to, it is yours. But it is not the shaft.
Old 04-30-2017, 10:00 PM
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