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Dana,
Just so you know you are not alone. I got mine apart yesterday - Sunday. I am going to start ordering parts this week. I wanted to make sure I saw the parts before I started ordering what I thought was damaged. After seeing it, I can't believe I got 46,000 miles on it before it broke. There are no splines left on the clutch at all.

Last edited by twitchy; 05-01-2017 at 02:06 AM.. Reason: added more text
Old 05-01-2017, 01:42 AM
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I'd pull it apart unless I had somebody much bigger than that kid to help me. It's going to be heavy and awkward no matter how you do it, but much heavier and more awkward if you keep the parts together. Speaking of which, my memory is a little hazy, but you need to fabricate some sort of puller for the right side swingarm pin. Take a look at it when you get a chance. It's not the usual oilhead pin.
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Jax, FL
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Old 05-01-2017, 02:13 AM
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Wow. That's a pretty worn set o' splines.

Did you disassemble your driveshaft, or pull the whole drive line back etc.?

Quote:
Originally Posted by twitchy View Post
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana in Philly View Post
Wow. That's a pretty worn set o' splines.

Did you disassemble your driveshaft, or pull the whole drive line back etc.?
I disassembled everything. I don't like to take short cuts. It takes much longer, but that is just the way it makes me happy.

I got the right hand pivot pin for the swiingarm out, by using a longer bolt in the center hole and using a slide hammer. The Clymer manual suggested this and it worked great. I love a slide hammer. I don't use it very often, but it is one of those tools that is great when you need it.

The left hand pin is very tight. I used a heat gun on the aluminum frame around the pin to loosen it. I am not in the garage to look, but I think the left hand pin is a #60 Torx. I could be wrong on that though.

There are 2 locating pins between the transmission and the engine. One in the upper left and one in the lower right (sitting on the bike). The lower right pin had a little bit of corrosion and didn't want to let go. I sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it sit over night. WD-40 would work just as well. It didn't come apart very easy. It would move, but I could tell the pin was stuck.

If it makes it easier for you and you would like to talk, let me know. I'll give you my phone # and I can help you. I am not familiar if you don't take it completely apart though. I give you a lot of credit. This is not that easy.
Rob.

Last edited by twitchy; 05-01-2017 at 03:01 PM.. Reason: More text.
Old 05-01-2017, 02:50 PM
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Twitchy - I think you have an alignment problem. Does the rear main bearing of the engine have excessive clearance? If it happens to be loose in the vertical direction you can get an idea of how bad it is by gently prying the flywheel up and seeing how much it moves. Most of these in the past have shown the transmission axes about .005 to .008 inch lower than the crankshaft.

Are you replacing the transmission? I can't quite see but the transmission input spline might still be serviceable. Need a sidewise direct-on closeup picture.
Old 05-01-2017, 05:18 PM
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Dana,

I'd suggest removing the frame and swingarm as one piece. See pic below. No need to take the swingarm off the frame.

The drive shaft will slide out the rear of the swingarm with the paralever bearings and FD removed. You might want to replace or check those needle bearings anyway. Chris Harris says the torque on the inside/left side paralever bearing is wrong, should be 10-12 NM. You'll need to lube all three splines in the shaft anyway. Also, phase the shaft U-joints and mark the mid-shaft ends with a center-punch (paint wipes off).

While you have the tranny out, drill a weep hole for the slave cyl. My slave cyl leaked and trashed my clutch causing my teardown and new clutch.



Slave cyl weep hole 1/16" dia.

Old 05-01-2017, 06:08 PM
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I am certian someone has been able to keep this all together and reassemble it properly
I just can never get enough force on the shaft to snap the ring over the output shaft
on either end.
it will easily slide on but to get it to snap into the correct position I always have to
tap them on from the end.
Ive done this lots of times and always wind up taking it apart to get everything snapped on the
shafts and phased correctly.
but I am sure someone has done it, of course it would be easy to have it slide on and not
snap into position and not know it.
Old 05-01-2017, 08:29 PM
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I also pull the front right pivot pins with a screw in the center but I use a socket that is larger than
the od and tighten the bolt in the center to pull it, slide hammer works as well, I just have sockets.
the left hand I think is a 14mm hex not torx, and heat and a long bar before you loosen the
frame works. they do not come out easily.
Old 05-01-2017, 08:36 PM
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in case you need inspiration

Dana http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/306801-flattbutt-arkansas-thread.html
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentw1 View Post
I am certian someone has been able to keep this all together and reassemble it properly
I just can never get enough force on the shaft to snap the ring over the output shaft
on either end.
it will easily slide on but to get it to snap into the correct position I always have to
tap them on from the end.
Ive done this lots of times and always wind up taking it apart to get everything snapped on the
shafts and phased correctly.
but I am sure someone has done it, of course it would be easy to have it slide on and not
snap into position and not know it.
Brent.. I use a curved bar and a mallet to pop the yoke onto the transmission output shaft. Then slide the frame assembly forward the last couple inches.
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:38 AM
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Geoff Anstey wondered in Bill Pierce's spline fix thread whether the problem was with Getrag-marked transmissions. twitchy's is Getrag. Bill Pierce's was Getrag. my box was marked ZWN and I had no spline wear at 30k. but, flatbutt had worn splines with a ZWN box... Dana, could you look for a badge on the input shaft side tranny face?

edit: Geoff's theory may have been inspired by an idea by Moybin from 2007 or earlier.

the bare magnesium is cool, a little like on the R11S/R12S bikes' cousin several times removed...

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Last edited by darkonaut; 05-02-2017 at 05:12 AM..
Old 05-02-2017, 04:49 AM
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Hey Tom... Thanks for the memories !!
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:55 AM
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Darkonaut... Who is Bill S. That had worn splines ? I have over 50K on my Getrag with zero wear on splines or shaft... though I take it apart occasionally to grease and inspect.
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:59 AM
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i was skimming, saw the link in your post, missed that it was a quote and his thread/bike. sorry, i have like twenty tabs open right now...

tho' good to remember that for all years and boxes most are good/aligned/whatever
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Last edited by darkonaut; 05-02-2017 at 05:07 AM..
Old 05-02-2017, 05:02 AM
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Ha.. I do that too sometimes.
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Old 05-02-2017, 05:13 AM
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Always thought the Daytona 1000 was a gorgeous bike. To my eye, the R1100S has similar lines.

I took a quick look guys, but didn't see any branding on the transmission. Once I find it, I'll post it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkonaut View Post
Dana, could you look for a badge on the input shaft side tranny face?

the bare magnesium is cool, a little like on the R11S/R12S bikes' cousin several times removed...

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Old 05-03-2017, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkonaut View Post
Geoff Anstey wondered in Bill Pierce's spline fix thread whether the problem was with Getrag-marked transmissions. twitchy's is Getrag. Bill Pierce's was Getrag. my box was marked ZWN and I had no spline wear at 30k. but, flatbutt had worn splines with a ZWN box... Dana, could you look for a badge on the input shaft side tranny face?

edit: Geoff's theory may have been inspired by an idea by Moybin from 2007 or earlier.

the bare magnesium is cool, a little like on the R11S/R12S bikes' cousin several times removed...

That thing is gorgeous. Pure dieselpunk with a purpose.
Old 05-04-2017, 06:09 PM
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Ordering clutch parts

Dana,
I ordered all my clutch parts from Bob's BMW in Maryland early in the week. I got everything on Friday. I don't know if they were having a special on Monday when I ordered, but I got free shipping and 15% off 1 item. They took the 15% off of the clutch housing - the most expensive part. I saved $64 on the order. Shipping only took 1 day by FedEx but they had to wait for the clutch housing to come in from the BMW warehouse.

I don't know if you have a local dealer or not. I have been using Bob's since around 2000 for my BMW K75s.
Old 05-06-2017, 02:48 AM
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Yeah, Bobs was my dealer when I lived in the DC area. I've bought four bikes from Paul Mihalka there, back in the 80s and 90s. Anybody know if Paul's still on the planet?

Bob's has a pretty decent online system for ordering by part number. Unless I find a better one, that's what I'll use.


Quote:
Originally Posted by twitchy View Post
Dana,
I ordered all my clutch parts from Bob's BMW in Maryland early in the week. I got everything on Friday. I don't know if they were having a special on Monday when I ordered, but I got free shipping and 15% off 1 item. They took the 15% off of the clutch housing - the most expensive part. I saved $64 on the order. Shipping only took 1 day by FedEx but they had to wait for the clutch housing to come in from the BMW warehouse.

I don't know if you have a local dealer or not. I have been using Bob's since around 2000 for my BMW K75s.
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Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-06-2017 at 12:28 PM..
Old 05-06-2017, 09:43 AM
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#s 8 & 10 below -- are those hex or torx? My fingers and eyes are playing tricks on me.

And what size? Anybody know?

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Last edited by Dana in Philly; 05-06-2017 at 01:20 PM..
Old 05-06-2017, 12:27 PM
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