Slave cylinder seems fine, gear oil drips out after removal.

[BMWWERX]

I know there was just a post about slave cylinders but I have a new twist and a few questions. After noticing slow fluid leaks at the trans to engine joint both sides, I decided to check conditions at the slave cylinder only to find out there seems to be no dot 4 leaks only gear oil. Bike has 33,500 on the clock. So I ask:

1. If gear oil is coming out of the slave cylinder orifice is that a failed gearbox seal under the slave cylinder?

2. Is it humanly possible to replace that seal with the frame cross member in the way or did I just answer my own question?

3. With gear oil in the slave area is the oil on its way thru the push rod opening into the bell housing and onto the clutch?

4. Is it time to pull the tranny and lube splines, replace seals etc. etc. etc. I could really use the wisdom of this most awesome forum about now.
Thanks in advance.

[brentw1]

1, yes one of the seals on the main shaft probably the rear but could be eiter.

2, No but you can move the subframe out of the way fiarly easily.

3 you have gear grease or oil out of the bottom of the bellhouseing?
if it is gear grease then it has already gotten on the input shaft and clutch.

4 Probably, look at other threads and check the clutch splines

lots of info already here on this if you do some searches.

[BMWWERX]

Thanks for the reply Brent! not sure what it is about this post but you were the only one to chime in. I'll follow Dana's thread as she is getting a great response from the forum. And continue to search the archives for more valuable info.

I have my seals, clutch pack and spacer parts on hand now I need to build a stand and get started.

[BMWWERX]

Wheel off, shock lifted up out of the way, I got the slave out by turning down and to the left, so tight but is doable. With a small L shaped seal pic and a very small flat screwdriver I worked the old seal out without damaging surfaces. Plan to use a 13/16" socket as a tool to seat the new seal. Decided to drill the weep hole and put the bike back on the road as the clutch was not slipping.

The old seal sits about 1/16" past the ledge or lip of surface area. Not sure if this seal is designed to be seated until it bottoms out? Any input on that would be real helpful!

[darkonaut]

my 2¢ - if something visibly liquid (not just gray semi-solid gunk) has been oozing from between your engine and transmission, install the new seal like the old one in yer pix, because it'll probably work and because there's a good chance you'll be pulling the transmission soon anyway to replace the other input shaft seal and the clutch bits... ...at which time you can check to see how the new seal is doing.

[Lowndes]

BMWWERX,

Looks really clean. Do NOT forget the weep hole for anything leaking in there. Drill before replacing the slave cyl. I used a 6" hex bit extension with a hex drive 1/16 in drill bit and a good size centerpunch ding to start it. That lets you get the best possible angle (tangent) on the housing so that the drill enters as close to the bottom as possible. You'll see what I mean.

I replaced my OEM oil soaked clutch with the $100 Seibenrock unit from BBY. It is doing very well. Reused all the other clutch plates, spring, rod, after cleaning.

I did replace that same shaft seal, too. As I recall, we determined it sits above the normal oil level in the tranny. ??

More pics here: https://goo.gl/photos/fGh3jXcpLGsCDqwH6

And here:

https://goo.gl/photos/QEN3xyQVWXW1jraT6

[BMWWERX]

Combined what I learned here and input I recieved from Chris Harris and I have a runner. Tight squeeze putting the shaft seal in while the trans was mounted and the frame in place but with long skinny tools it is doable. Drilled that weep hole as a safety net.

Mucho apreciar hombres....

[BMWWERX]

I may have celebrated too soon on this one, leaking gear oil from the new weep hole. Either my seal did'nt or the front input shaft seal is also bad, or or or ah for @#$% sake.

Anybody rebuilding these Getrag gearboxes. I'd like to pull this one soon and send it out for seals and anything else it may require...

[flatbutt]

Originally Posted by BMWWERX

I may have celebrated too soon on this one, leaking gear oil from the new weep hole. Either my seal did'nt or the front input shaft seal is also bad, or or or ah for @#$% sake.

Anybody rebuilding these Getrag gearboxes. I'd like to pull this one soon and send it out for seals and anything else it may require...

Sounds like you have the skills to do it yourself. There are guys on this board with mad skills who can talk you through it.

And there are a few threads like this that can help...


Flattbutt in Arkansas thread

[twitchy]

Originally Posted by BMWWERX

I may have celebrated too soon on this one, leaking gear oil from the new weep hole. Either my seal did'nt or the front input shaft seal is also bad, or or or ah for @#$% sake.

Anybody rebuilding these Getrag gearboxes. I'd like to pull this one soon and send it out for seals and anything else it may require...

I just shipped my transmission to Anton Largiader in Virginia today. My clutch splines stripped and I am fixing the clutch myself and having Anton do the transmission shaft. I am also installing the spacer on the clutch disk.

BMW motorcycle repair in Charlottesville, VA

[BMWWERX]

Flattbutt thanks for the vote of confidence I may have little choice. My short term fix was to plug the weep hole and ride until the clutch slips... Ha not too many folks that work on these transmissions. May try twitchy's idea. Sure appreciate the ideas and info from you Pelican people.

[terrym]

Originally Posted by BMWWERX

... Ha not too many folks that work on these transmissions...

I believe these folks in Watsonville would rebuild it for you if you decide not to tackle it - Ben's Motorcycle Works

[BMWR502]

Pulled the slave out on my '05 R11S 2 weeks ago. I was quite surprised to see this. No signs of engine/trans/hydraulic oil around the clutch disc area.

[brentw1]

these seals are easy to screw up installing them.
and normally the front seal shouldnt fill the master cylinder area
there is really no path for oil from the front seal to the rear
I would remove the slave and run it and see if the seals are leaking
you can shift it without the clutch if it is on the centerstand without the rear wheel on.

[brentw1]

bens is competent and they would rebuild it but it wll not be cheap at any shop.

[wswartzwel]

Originally Posted by brentw1

these seals are easy to screw up installing them.
and normally the front seal shouldnt fill the master cylinder area
there is really no path for oil from the front seal to the rear
I would remove the slave and run it and see if the seals are leaking
you can shift it without the clutch if it is on the centerstand without the rear wheel on.

This! Don't give up just because you may have damaged a seal installing it. Verify whats leaking and fix it.

[darkonaut]

thirding Brent's advice. they can be a bugger.

but! it definitely can be cheap to have someone else do it. i think it's much harder for us because we're trying to do procedures without the correct tools and (often) for the first time. my guy has done seals and bearings while i wait--it takes a couple minutes each, usually less, to pull and install. he did my trans seals for some good beer and maybe a couple of Jacksons plus the cost of the parts. depending on where you are upstate i would seriously recommend taking off the subframes and personally carrying your transmission to your local Valdi / Ted Porter / Brent. cultivate a relationship with them... you will need their help and/or proprietary BMW tools if you keep working on the bike, and they are a good resource for these kinds of jobs for which correct procedure depends on having seen multiple examples of the problem.

[brentw1]

if it is the common style seal that bmw uses then you need to form it and use some kind
of guide to get it over the shaft in the correct shape, almost anyghing will do.
if it is a standard spring reinforced seal you can usually just slide them on,
Ive done several I just dont remember which style they are, I looked in the service manual.
It kind of looks like a standard spring reinforeced lip seal. but even those can be screwed up.
where in nor cal are you, really its more of a pain to take it to a shop for just this than sort it out yourself.
also I think ted stopped working on bikes his mechanic quit. he still does shocks and gs 911

[wswartzwel]

Brent that one is a standard seal, like everyone uses, not one of those form before installing seals like the rear main.

[Lowndes]

If you really want to make that seal (or any rubber seal) installation go much easier get some IP P-80 seal lube. It will slide in so easily you'll think you have the wrong seal. In a few minutes it's gone and the seal will as much trouble to remove as the old one.

This stuff looks like plain water but smells good. Dip your fingertip in it, smear it on the seal (it beads up just like plain water would and you'll think this can't work), and immediately push the seal in. Put some on the inside (shaft side) of the seal, too.

For anyone who's ever struggled with getting a seal to install this stuff is the closest thing to magic you'll ever see. Way better than grease, oil, or silicone.

https://www.ipcol.com/products/assembly-lubricants/

They don't sell retail, only to shops (tax ID#). It's not expensive. Can't tell you where I get it, but my brother brings it home from his shop in a tiny plastic pill bottle half full whenever we have any seals to replace. A teaspoon of this stuff will do a dozen seals and half of that will be on the floor. Non-hazardous, biodegradeable, but it is habit forming. If he is out and forgets to bring it, we wait.

We used it on the input shaft seals on my R1100S tranny when the slave cyl leaked and soaked my clutch last fall. I highly recommend the weep hole. It can be done on the bike without removing anything, too.