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GUS GUS is offline
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Oh yeah,pivot bearing studs seem to be made of titanium.
regards gus

Old 02-07-2003, 04:21 PM
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GUS

I have replaced my pivot bearings today.
A few months ago my rear wheel developed some play and I removed these bearings, cleaned, re-greased and adjusted them.
About a week ago the suspension started to creak and groan, and the play re-appeared, Dr Curve was right, don't waste your time, just replace them.
One of them had siezed and was swivelling on the titanium pin, the other felt rough as guts.
Cost for a pair of bearings was over the top IMO -- $180 aust.
No big deal to R&R, just like any bearing, tap out, freeze and heat in(with a hot air gun, but a propane torch would work )
These are a dedicated needle roller thrust bearing and I doubt that you could substitute another type for them because of their size, but the part number is 10-6465A U.E and they are FAG brand. Sizes are:
32mmOD
17mmID
10mmWide

M Motor
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Old 02-08-2003, 03:30 AM
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Well haveing done the job with Gus last night,i'd beg to differ!!!,i see no point in changeing them untill you have to,when we stripped the rear,obviously we were going into the uknown,after our cock up and haveing to strip it for a second time,i bet it didn't take 3minutes to put it all back together and that included torqueing everything,if it has to come apart again then thats not a problem and we know how to do it,only difference is i'll make sure the the 12mm hexagon socket is 1/2" and not 3/8" in fact i bought one today,and of course it make life that much easier with two pairs of hands,an enjoyable learning curve!!!.

Last edited by Chris Canning; 02-08-2003 at 09:19 AM..
Old 02-08-2003, 05:30 AM
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Fair enough Chris, if you don't want to change them you don't have to. What I am saying is that mine felt and looked OK when they were inspected, but they failed anyway shortly afterwards. They were greased and preloaded correctly, I am a mechanic. When you think about it, where did the play come from? Obviously nothing had come loose, and there was'nt any movement before, so something must have worn! Believe me, if I could have avoided spending $180 on bearings I would have.

M Motor
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Old 02-08-2003, 04:43 PM
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Exclamation Rear Drive Bearing questions

I am in the process of lubricating my rear splines and adjusting my rear bearings for the first time (25K). I have pulled my rear drive and noticed that the inner race on the adjusting pin, which is on the rear wheel side (small bearing, one on each side) slips on and of the pin by hand. The inner race on the other pin (outside of driveshaft) had to be pressed off. I believe that the inner race is a bit worn and I am inclined to replace both bearings. Can anyone who has performed this maintenance tell me if the inner races should be pressed on as I suspect they should be? Can anyone provide a bearing replacement number? I looked these guys over and could not find any numbers.

Prost!
Erik
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41R12 (http://home.HiWAAY.net/~ebahl/1941_BMW_R12.htm)
Old 02-21-2003, 07:14 PM
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Erik
I think 25k is about the life expectancy of those bearings, I have been in there to grease them but have not had to replace so I do not know about bearing house availbility but the look "special" to me?
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:49 AM
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This has been so already covered just a few weeks back. Check those threads where all was explained. Best
Old 02-22-2003, 11:41 AM
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Thats really the life expectancy of those?

I thought it was just my bike. It's got 42k miles on it and it's in need of a 3rd bearing set on the back, as I can once again feel a slight pop when I tweak the rear wheel front to back or top to bottom.

Mark
Old 02-22-2003, 01:55 PM
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Markrmc
It is probubly too small of a bearing for the job? I would assume due to space considerations.
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Old 02-22-2003, 03:19 PM
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I contacted a local bearing house. They indicated FAG 10-6465A U.E (I got this part number from a previous post) is no longer available. Does anyone know of the replacement part number? Is BMW the only source?
Old 02-24-2003, 06:24 AM
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i havent been able to find those bearings anywhere but bmw. yes they wear pretty quick. pretty small for all the forces they have to deal with. the inner races are pretty well trashed by 12-15k miles. if you alreay have you final drive off, they dont take any time to replace. just make sure to heat the housing/freeze the berings and theyll go in with no fuss.
Old 03-01-2003, 10:29 AM
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Thanks to all for replies. I attempted to find the bearings thru bearing houses with no luck. I ordered a set from BMW. I have the rear drive on my bench ready to extract those babies. Will the races fall out if I heat up the area well.
Old 03-03-2003, 04:36 PM
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rear drive pivot bearing play again

All:

33K miles and I'll be replacing the bearings at the rear drive pivot - I finally checked them today, and there was clearly some play in the right side bearing.

New bearings are part no. 33 17 2 311 091. BTW Chicago BMW gives you 20% off parts and no sales tax if you are looking for a place to mailorder parts.

If you haven't checked this lately on your bike, I'd sure recommend doing it now - while there is still some snow on the ground for those of us in the North. I am sure this is why my bike did not give me that "supreme cornering confidence" feeling late last summer & fall.

FWIW I did adjust these bearings once early in the bike's life.

best,

Dave

David Soine '99 R11S <= state of increasing entropy
Redford, MI '90 Hawk GT
Old 03-08-2003, 01:35 PM
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Hi David:

How did you check the bearings and narrow the play down to the right side? I've periodically tried loading the drive housing laterally with the bike on the center stand to see if there is play. Is this what you did?

Thanks for the help. Moose
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Old 03-08-2003, 02:43 PM
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Moose:

I pulled the wheel and shock (I had the wheel off anyway) because I wanted to check the bearing through the range of motion and feel for any notchiness. With the rear drive in both hands it quickly became clear what was going on - no noticeable brinnelling but play on the right side bearing.

I did check for play occasionally last year with the wheel in place - I never felt anything out of the ordinary - I think maybe the weight of the wheel makes it more difficult to get a good feel for the play???

best,

Dave
Old 03-08-2003, 03:59 PM
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Makes sense. I often have to do the same on swingarms on older beemers. Ditto detaching speedo and other cables while checking steering bearings. Hard to be tuned to both sensitivity and strong carrying/moving forces at the same time.

I"m due sometime soon. Just found play in wheel when moving with hands at 3 and 9. Double checked with the head mech at the local shop (who of course knows oilheads way better than me) and he says mine may be the pivot, or the main hub bearing. I hope the former. Yikes.

roger
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Old 03-08-2003, 07:35 PM
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Well, I figured out a way to tell whether the play is in the hub or the pivot bearing, and the answer is (probably) BOTH. Damn!

I'm now sure the hub has some play (probably most of it) but with the rear hub moving around, it's harder to tell about the pivot. A good friend with a fleet of bikes, and who is a machinst also assisted it with an
eyeball and thinks there is a tiny bit in the pivot too.

Anyone else besides Mark with play in the rear hub (carrier bearing)

Roger
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Old 03-11-2003, 08:19 AM
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Roger I take it you are checking it with the wheel installed? Definitely a two-person operation if you want to figure out where the play is...

-ds
Old 03-11-2003, 09:53 AM
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Yes, we had two people. Being able to detect the carrier bearing play is pretty easy by yourself. I can't personally feel (in my hands) where the play is, but a dial gauge strapped strapped (admittedly awkwardly) the rear drive housing and set to touch the wheel, or easier the disc) showes carrier bearing play pretty easily. Later we noted something much easier still. With the bike oriented the right way on a sunny day, you can look at the light/shadow pattern cast by the disc and it's drilled holes, on the housing (this all assumes the disc is rigidly affixed to the wheel, which it is) and how they move when you move the wheel (hands at 3&9) This looks at the wheel/brake vs the rear housing, and ignores whatever is happening at the pivot.

It was harder for us to see the rear pivot play because neither the light nor the dial gauge fit well there, and, we didn't have time to remove the shock, and, the hands (mine anyway) couldn't readily feel the pivot play by mentally subtracting the amount of rear hub play. I'm just not that well calibrated.

I haven't given it much more thought, since I know the rear hub has to come apart which means the rear drive has to come off anyway.

ugh

roger
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Old 03-11-2003, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by roger albert
Later we noted something much easier still. With the bike oriented the right way on a sunny day, you can look at the light/shadow pattern cast by the disc and it's drilled holes, on the housing (this all assumes the disc is rigidly affixed to the wheel, which it is) and how they move when you move the wheel (hands at 3&9) This looks at the wheel/brake vs the rear housing, and ignores whatever is happening at the pivot.

Better think about this one some more...the shadows/reflections should move no matter where the play is...or maybe I'm not visualizing this correctly?

Pulling the shock is the way to go - if your exhaust will let you. Finally I've discovered a reason (besides no money for it) to keep the stock exhaust!

-ds

Old 03-11-2003, 10:53 AM
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