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burning oil no more

I've read through the old threads that the R11S can take a while to break in and stop burning oil. Purchased my "04 BCR with 11K and up to about 20K, it routinely used 800 - 900 ml of oil per 1000 miles. Thought I would just have to learn to live with it and carry oil on extended trips.

Now at 25K having just completed back to back trips covering 4500 miles and barely used a drop - I'm pleasantly surprised. It will be nice to have the extra room in the side case now that I don't have to pack a couple of quarts
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Last edited by tic105; 08-23-2017 at 03:15 AM..
Old 08-22-2017, 04:23 PM
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Good deal! My 2001 is about 25k miles and hasn't used any in the 1k miles I've put on it. I put the oil level directly in the middle dot of the glass after 10 minutes of stopping engine. It creeps up a bit overnight to 3/4 or so.

I've "heard" to use dino oil first 20k miles, then synthetic. Thats what I did on my K and never had a problem, and it stopped using oil about 15k miles.
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Old 08-22-2017, 05:20 PM
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If it's not eating oil, you're not pushing it hard enough.
Old 08-22-2017, 06:06 PM
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Old 08-22-2017, 06:14 PM
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That's a total BS old wives tale about using Dyno Oil for some amount of miles before switching over to Synthetic.

The main reason for the oil consumption in the beginning is that the bike has been babied.
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Old 08-23-2017, 04:26 AM
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Debunking one piece of BS, just to offer another one... brilliant.

When the engines are new, the cylinder bores are not round and thus, the rings are not fully touching the bore EVENLY. This will generally cause a reasonable amount of "blow-by", translating in the "use" of oil.

Valves vs. the valve guides and oil seals follows the same principal. There is quite a bit of potential for oil "loss" until these surfaces are mating properly. Because of the materials and processes used by BMW, this can sometimes take a while.

Also, to "baby" the motor initially, is NOT a bad thing at all, it will generally thank you in the long run with performance and longevity. Be gentle with your engine when it is cold, new or newly rebuilt. Give the surfaces time to find to each other by "wearing off" material that does not need to be where it is.
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:33 PM
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When I got my S from a gent in Louisville in 2008, it was using a quart in about 700 miles initially. Took the long way home because of weather, bike had 5700 miles on it when I got it. Trip home was 3800 miles in 7 days in the saddle. Gradually oil consumption improved, and with a blast through Nevada headed north, things really settled in pretty well. Perhaps running a partially broken in motor at 90+ mph for a few hours helps?
Old 08-23-2017, 06:42 PM
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I like Ralf's description the best, but we're still working with air/oil cooled engines, which means there's gonna be a lot of lattitude in the way parts settle in. Our machines are old school and subject to old school procedures - rough hone the cylinders, add a set of high tension cast or chrome rings to 'wear in' the fit and wait a reasonable amount of miles before complaining about oil consumption. As far as break-in procedures go you can probably find any combination procedures that someone will swear works the best and you probably couldn't prove or disprove any one of them. I figure if it runs for 100 miles it'll run forever. Air cooled aircraft engines get broken in with mineral oil without all the slippery additives for the first 10 hours. New stuff is different. Fine honing in the cylinders with a superfine plateau finish sized to just a couple ten-thousandths, high silicon content pistons with a fit so tight it doesn't seem right and low tension rings that are already damn close to perfect, and water cooling. Little or no break-in needed.

Old school.
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Old 08-24-2017, 08:37 AM
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In light of Dean's, Ralf's and tm's comments;

On an "S" with 53,000 miles (all dino oil since new) and still burns about a quart in about 800 miles, is it worth...

- rough/ball hone the cylinders
- install a new set of rings (BMW? aftermarket?)
- break in "properly"...generally gentle but with an occasional, spirited rev's



I'd be willing to invest the time and the cost of new rings if I stood the chance of reducing oil consumption.

Your thoughts are appreciated.
Old 08-27-2017, 12:06 PM
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Sounds like a lot of work when just giving it the boot could break it in for you. I would think it was ridden too conservatively by it's previous owner(s). If thrashing it a bit doesn't work, which is possible, then honing & rings are a consideration. I don't think trying to gently break it in with 53k is going to do much. Some of these bikes never quit eating oil.
Old 08-27-2017, 03:31 PM
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Thanks for those comments. I've tried aggressive revving for some time with no apparent success. Agreed, gentle riding at this juncture would be of no use.

I would like to seriously consider the ball hone procedure then new rings. I've torn apart and rebuilt many engines (and performed the same operation) so the time and labor doesn't bother me. I'm wondering if anyone else on the forum has done the same and realized reduced oil consumption afterward. And, what type of rings are recommended? OEM? Aftermarket? I would think BMW rings would be acceptable (although probably expen$ive...I'll check some prices later) as long as the break-in procedure was a bit more "enthusiastic"!
Old 08-27-2017, 07:02 PM
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Just an FYI, aggressive revving is not the same as riding it aggressively. There is not the stress of a weighted bike on it by just revving the motor, never a good idea. The motor needs to be under load for it to be effective.
Old 08-28-2017, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1100sp View Post
In light of Dean's, Ralf's and tm's comments;

On an "S" with 53,000 miles (all dino oil since new) and still burns about a quart in about 800 miles, is it worth...

- rough/ball hone the cylinders
- install a new set of rings (BMW? aftermarket?)
- break in "properly"...generally gentle but with an occasional, spirited rev's



I'd be willing to invest the time and the cost of new rings if I stood the chance of reducing oil consumption.

Your thoughts are appreciated.
Do a leak-down compression test to get an idea of what's going on... go from there.

What does your exhaust look like? Sooty, oily... sooty ad oily?

A quart per 800 miles it upper limit. But, most display a LOT less than that... lot's of it depends on your riding style as well.

Hard top diagnose from afar, really.
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Old 08-28-2017, 07:08 AM
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How does nikasil fit into the equation as far as ball honing?
Seems oil loss could be something else.
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Old 08-28-2017, 07:36 AM
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From what I've seen nikasil hones up just fine. As Shredder stated doing a leak down would be the best first step.
Old 08-28-2017, 10:58 AM
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or the oil rings are sticking from years of crud
Old 08-28-2017, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
aggressive revving is not the same as riding it aggressively
Agreed. That's what I meant to type!
Old 08-29-2017, 12:55 PM
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Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'll try to obtain the equipment and conduct a leak down test. Wouldn't hurt to perform a proper plug check and check the exhaust outlets, too.
Old 08-29-2017, 01:00 PM
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Get the breather hose out of the air box and let it breath to atmospheric. You will know if you
are pulling oil from the crankcase if you remove the right drain plug from the air box and oil
drips out. Lt sounds like you have glazed cylinders. You need to do a warm engine compression
check,and go from there.
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Get the breather hose out of the air box and let it breath to atmospheric. You will know if you are pulling oil from the crankcase if you remove the right drain plug from the air box and oil drips out.
lht; Over the years of many disassembly's, none of my checks for oil in that corner of the air box has revealed anything but a very small amount of oil...maybe half an ounce over many months (more than 4000 miles) accumulation. Nonetheless, I'll vent the crankcase to the atmosphere and monitor consumption. Thanks.
Old 08-30-2017, 03:11 PM
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