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Thinking of buying 2001 R1100S

Hi and thanks in advance for any advise

I am interested in buying a 2001 R110S. I have not seen the bike yet, and I'm planning to take the trip Saturday. This is what I know: 29500 miles, 2nd owner since 2004. Low Fuel light is out. As per owner, the rear suspension has not been changed, neither the bearing. As per owner again, bike has regural engine and differential oil changes. The pictures do look good, but again, pictures can not tell the whole truth.

That's all I know, and until I see it from close, and ride it, I would not have anymore info. Any tips what and how to check when inspecting it? Major issues that arise with this bike at this mileage? Asking price is $3500

Again, thanks for any info.
Old 08-23-2017, 01:22 PM
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I just bought an '01 S light for $3800 with about the same miles. My tires were OLD (check the date codes). The no low fuel light could be a bulb, a bad connection to the tank, or the switch on the fuel sender.

It's a great bike, love mine!
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Old 08-23-2017, 03:20 PM
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Brent
 
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best do a search of the board most people dont have time to regurgitate a several page check list.
if you identified where you were you might find a member who could look at it with you.
Old 08-23-2017, 07:54 PM
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What generally helps in these type queries is to provide a link to the ad, or dealership so we can all weigh in with opinions.

The problem is, the different years had different configurations. ABS/no ABS, heated grips, etc. So it's not so simple as to say "I got mine for $,$$$.$$" because one bike may have more value than another. It does give you a ballpark though. Then add in what accessories might be on the bike and if they are of any value to you. They probably don't increase price too much or take away, but do you want or need them. In other words, some bikes might be totally blinged out with some originally very expensive aftermarket pipes, wheels, seats, etc. while another is bone stock...

And, as mentioned above fill out your profile, there may be an owner near you that can help...
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2000 R1100S, 2000 Dyna FXDX, 2015 rNineT. 2016 F800GS, 2016 Jeep Rubicon. 2001 Corvette, 1978 Porsche 928. Schwinn Homegrown MTB & Fastback Road Bike. 22 pairs of shoes. 44 bottles of beer.
Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 08-24-2017, 10:09 AM
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Had to smile at the OP's post,no photos no link and my crystal ball isn't working today
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Old 08-24-2017, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Canning View Post
Had to smile at the OP's post,no photos no link and my crystal ball isn't working today
Hey, all I asked is what issues to look for on this bike from people who are familiar with it. The crystal ball might not be working, but you might be a psychic if a picture can tell you of any problems it's has... so here you go

Not sure the whole bike pic is the same bike since it has the saddle bag supports, unless they were removed.





[img]



Last edited by Evangelosk; 08-25-2017 at 09:41 AM..
Old 08-24-2017, 04:24 PM
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Hey, Evangelosk,

That might be a good deal if the bike is OK. I paid 47 for a '99 ABS with 16K a year ago. May have paid too much but I do love the bike.

BIGGEST thing to look for is the dreaded CLUTCH SPLINE problem. MUCH info here and on other forums, diagnostics, repairs, etc. Only a "few" bikes had the problem, but if YOU have the problem, it's big $ to have it fixed.

It either is still working or it's failed and isn't drivable, it's in "neutral". No symptoms prior to failure. IF you know what you're looking at and how to do it, AND the owner will let you, it's possible to pull the starter (remove cover- one screw; remove starter - two bolts and two wires). Can do it in the driveway in 15 min with the tool kit without removing the tupperware. From the hole left by the starter you can see the "clutch splines" - just barely.

A long flat blade screwdriver will let you push the sliding clutch friction plate back and forth about 1-2 mm. The splines are the same all the way around so you look to see if the spline teeth edges are STRAIGHT, new looking. If not, BIG deduct. If they fail, they do it beginning about 30K, sometimes earlier or later depending on how it's been ridden.

Failure means the clutch has to come out, replaced, and if the tranny input shaft -the male spline - is boogered (usually is), the tranny has to be replaced or rebuilt, too.

My clutch slave cyl failed last fall which killed my friction plate. THANKFULLY my splines were pristine when I pulled it in Jan. MAJOR job. Basically, start at the license plate and remove parts till you get to the clutch, about half way to the headlight. Enough on the splines.

You WILL need new shocks front and rear -the Showa's last about 30K (new Wilbers from The Beemer Shop are $1200 and worth it), new SS brake lines ($240 if you do it yourself), a rebuilt HES from GSAddict ($200). These are what you WILL need (if not already done), not IF, but WHEN.

If you want it to run much better, you'll need an AF-XiED by NightRider ($175), then the left cam chain tensioner??, tires?? brake pads?? LED bulbs, tank bag, etc. Plus saddlebags and mounting hardware if you want to tour. There is no storage on the bike. Other than this stuff it's a REALLY fun bike!! You won't believe the handling.

Hope this helps.

Starter hole just left of center:



This is what the clitch splines are supposed to look like:



You'd rather be riding, I'd think:

Last edited by Lowndes; 08-24-2017 at 08:14 PM..
Old 08-24-2017, 08:10 PM
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Quite possibly the highest mileage accumulated post (esmirspacer) retrofit. The original clutch spline failure occurred 1/04/2015 at 18,935 miles. 2 years, 6 months, 10 days, and 64,910 miles later during a most demanding evaluation period a transmission bearing failed obviously requiring a complete teardown. Upon close inspection both, the input shaft as well as the extended clutch disc hub showed no aberrant wear.

Superior to the aftermarket (made in China) disc's available from others - A prototype of my "superscheibe" clutch disc utilizing a genuine O.E.M. Sachs disc fitted with an aerospace quality extended, fully broached hub is currently being evaluated and should be available soon. Keep in mind my machine was fitted, NOT with the extended hub (made in China) disc being offered by some - but with the 'esmirspacer' mated to a genuine, original equipment Sachs clutch disc. While the aftermarket China (advertised by some as being a made in Japan product) part may provide acceptable short term service there are other unknown factors such as dubious hub and friction disc material which could limit long term durability. Still, it is an option - however, for those who wish to do the job once or pay the considerable labor costs to have it performed. I suggest either the esmirspacer which has demonstrably proven itself over almost 65k miles or wait until the "superscheibe" is released.

The threads below highlight my machine and are relatively comprehensive on the topic.

The 'Well, I bought it' - R11S Trans failure

The 'Well, I bought it' R11S Trans Failure - UPDATE!

J.S.
Old 08-24-2017, 11:09 PM
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Thank you for the very detailed information!
Old 08-25-2017, 03:53 AM
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I do wish you could post smaller pictures as these unfortunately fall in the range between my reading glasses and electron microscope.
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2000 R1100S, 2000 Dyna FXDX, 2015 rNineT. 2016 F800GS, 2016 Jeep Rubicon. 2001 Corvette, 1978 Porsche 928. Schwinn Homegrown MTB & Fastback Road Bike. 22 pairs of shoes. 44 bottles of beer.
Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 08-25-2017, 06:03 AM
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I bought my R1100S new in 2001

I paid way too much as BMW reduced the list price on later model bikes.

I love the torque, fuel economy (pre Afxied), and predictable handling.

It is not the picture of reliability that my previous Japanese bikes enjoyed.

So far (12k miles) I have had to replace the fuel pump including the in-tank wiring and hoses, brake hoses, tire valves (rotted and fell out), crank sensor, burnt out headlamp and the normal batteries and tires.
Old 08-25-2017, 06:23 AM
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really do a search here so far people have only mentioned a few of the problems that can
happen with these
Old 08-25-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckcarr View Post


I do wish you could post smaller pictures as these unfortunately fall in the range between my reading glasses and electron microscope.

Fixed. Now you should be able to diagnose all the problems...
Old 08-25-2017, 09:42 AM
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For whatever it's worth I bought a 99 R1100s w/ 41k and hard cases last week for $2200. From what i've seen, thats on the lower end of the spectrum and rightfully so. The bike I picked up is tatty and unloved by its brief second owner.

I purchased it knowing that I'll need to change all fluids/filters, a lot of rubber bits, and give it an ABSectomy. And shocks...yea, possibly. Things like the system cases, aftermarket saddle, full Remus exhaust, and a broken Buell in my shop with a cross country trip starting in a week or so...made it a oddly logical choice for me.

As my first modern BMW, it was a cheap entry into a non-diving German oddity (to me). If I enjoy the bike as much as everyone here does, I'll probably buy a nicer one with the light sport package as those are more inline with my riding style and I hate tracking down 170 tires.
Old 08-25-2017, 10:04 AM
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lots of opinions here about remvoing the abs, I wouldnt have one without it,,,,
replace the rubber lines with ss lines and they are ok and if you want more bite
go to hh pads, these are heavy bikes that I ride all season abs has saved me locking up
on crappy roads several times, and the 99 is not the dreaded servo system.
Old 08-25-2017, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentw1 View Post
lots of opinions here about remvoing the abs, I wouldnt have one without it,,,,
replace the rubber lines with ss lines and they are ok and if you want more bite
go to hh pads, these are heavy bikes that I ride all season abs has saved me locking up
on crappy roads several times, and the 99 is not the dreaded servo system.
Yea....I'm still on the fence on that one. My bike is getting the alternating double flashing ABS lights indicative of low voltage so a new Odyssey is in the mail. The ABS is definitely not working as I locked up the rear to test it during the test ride. Thought that was better than trying to lock up the front on a test ride .

Honestly, I probably won't have time to pull the ABS before I leave in early September so I'm really hoping a reset and shiny new battery makes those damn lights stop.
Old 08-25-2017, 10:27 AM
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If you remove the ABS you'll discover a solid feeling brake lever with exceptional stopping control & excellent brakes that were unpredictable mush with ABS in force. Also you'll loose about 15 lbs. of weight up high on the bike which translates to a quicker handling bike. I had too many out of control moments brought on by ABS activating at exactly the wrong moment when solid braking was the far better choice.
Old 08-25-2017, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangelosk View Post
Fixed. Now you should be able to diagnose all the problems...
Not the greatest of photo's but the bike has seen way too much bad weather for me the problems that may be may not be encountered are a minor detail.
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:51 PM
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Again, thanks to all who have posted some very useful info. I do appreciate it.
Old 08-25-2017, 01:23 PM
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Looks basically stock, but filthy. Is it stored outside? Almost everything can be fixed but dirty worries me, and it's hard to bring back a bike that's been in the weather too long, if that's the case.

(But I value a bike largely on beauty, not necessarily horsepower etc. - just my personal bias.)
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Old 08-26-2017, 12:18 PM
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