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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tijeras NM
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Fluid & Filter preferences (Be civil)

Hey guys. Just bought an R1100s w/ 41k lacking a maintenance log. Plan on changing all the fluids to ease my mind before a cross country trip.

From what I've gathered from here and elsewhere this is what I'm planning on using. Just curious as to what the long term owners of these bikes have been using and if what I've got planned seems reasonable.

Engine Oil: Mobil1 15-50
Oil Filter: Purolator Pure One PLl0241
Air Filter: DIY Uni Foam Filter
Transmission: Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil
Final Drive: Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil (Seems like there's no consensus on FD oil)
Hydraulics: Motul 5.1 (No one recommended this, but its the best hydraulic fluid I've ever used)
Old 08-25-2017, 11:21 AM
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Transmission and final drive any of the synthetics rated GL5. I'd use an 85w-90 not the -140. My K bike didn't want to shift right with the thicker gear oil.

I'd put plugs in it too, and consider a fuel filter depending on how soon the trip is. I flushed mine with DOT 4 from ATE, I wish they still had the blue fluid here. Next time I go to Europe I'm bringing a suitcase full back.

Good luck.
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Old 08-25-2017, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N41EF View Post
I'd put plugs in it too, and consider a fuel filter depending on how soon the trip is. I flushed mine with DOT 4 from ATE, I wish they still had the blue fluid here. Next time I go to Europe I'm bringing a suitcase full back.

Good luck.
Ah good point I forgot to add to my list. Everyone seems to rave about the cheap copper Autolites which goes against my typical inclination to put NGK's platinum's in there. Not sure I'll have time to take care of the fuel filter although, you're right, its probably a good idea.

Any non-oem recommendations for a fuel filter? $20+ for a metal can with some paper in it is a bit insulting.


So in addition to whats up there I'll also be installing/completing:

Autolite copper spark plugs
Throttle body balance
Fuel filter (maybe)
Alternator Belt (Maybe)
Old 08-25-2017, 12:02 PM
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I did the Autolite AP3932 plugs (single plug) for $3 something each at a local store.

I know NAPA has a fuel filter, Gold 3032 for the K bikes. According to eBay it's the same for the R.
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:45 PM
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You have nothing on your list that I use.
But it all looks OK.
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2000 R1100S, 2000 Dyna FXDX, 2015 rNineT. 2016 F800GS, 2016 Jeep Rubicon. 2001 Corvette, 1978 Porsche 928. Schwinn Homegrown MTB & Fastback Road Bike. 22 pairs of shoes. 44 bottles of beer.
Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 08-25-2017, 05:28 PM
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At 41k miles, I'd change the alternator belt , if it hasn't been changed.
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Old 08-26-2017, 08:58 AM
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Hey, JohnnyBouncewel,

Your HES is past due for replacement (or rewiring). WHEN (not "if") it goes, you ain't goin no where til it's replaced. AMHIK.

If you don't replace it before you go, at least take a new or rebuilt one with you. The BMW units are BIG $ and will take several days to get to you. GSAddict on BMW Sport Touring (arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca) re-wires HES units and a year ago had a rewired R1100S available that I purchased. Excellent workmanship and materials. He has since done the HES on my RT, too.

The sensors last for ever, but BMW used cheap wire to connect to the Motronic. The insulation on the wires inside the sheath lose all the plasticisers due to the engine heat and crumbles shorting-out the HES.

If you are doing the alt belt, that would be the perfect time to do the HES. You do have to raise the tank to get to the connector, right side behind the alt. The R11S uses a different connector than the other 1100's.

There are aftermarket fuel pumps, filters, and tubing. (EuroMotoelectrics.com) IF you are in there, replace the filter AND THE TUBING. Ethanol gas seems to be bad on the tubing and all the movement from just replacing the filter will crack the OEM tubing. Be VERY particular about clamping the “U-tubes” on ALL the connections. There is 35-45 psi pressure on those lines and the connections will pop off. AMHIK.
Old 08-27-2017, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowndes View Post
Hey, JohnnyBouncewel,

Your HES is past due for replacement (or rewiring). WHEN (not "if") it goes, you ain't goin no where til it's replaced. AMHIK.

If you don't replace it before you go, at least take a new or rebuilt one with you. The BMW units are BIG $ and will take several days to get to you. GSAddict on BMW Sport Touring (arbcon@sunshinecoast.ca) re-wires HES units and a year ago had a rewired R1100S available that I purchased. Excellent workmanship and materials. He has since done the HES on my RT, too.

The sensors last for ever, but BMW used cheap wire to connect to the Motronic. The insulation on the wires inside the sheath lose all the plasticisers due to the engine heat and crumbles shorting-out the HES.

If you are doing the alt belt, that would be the perfect time to do the HES. You do have to raise the tank to get to the connector, right side behind the alt. The R11S uses a different connector than the other 1100's.

There are aftermarket fuel pumps, filters, and tubing. (EuroMotoelectrics.com) IF you are in there, replace the filter AND THE TUBING. Ethanol gas seems to be bad on the tubing and all the movement from just replacing the filter will crack the OEM tubing. Be VERY particular about clamping the “U-tubes” on ALL the connections. There is 35-45 psi pressure on those lines and the connections will pop off. AMHIK.

Great input! Just spent the last hour reading the multitude of "dark rainy middle of nowhere and stranded" stories on another BMW forum. Rewiring the HES sounds straight forward and probably a wise move while I'm poking around under the front cover. Short of rewiring, has anyone had success properly insulating the OEM wire and connector then getting it off the engine block?

As for fuel lines, I used to wrench at a Euro shop and we saw split internal hoses all the time in Ducati's. Ethanol just might be the devil. Not sure of the clamp style inside the R1100s but we had excellent results w/ fuel injection specific band clamps (no worm screw). Does anyone know the ID of the fuel lines? I might as well order in a spool to keep in the shop.
Old 08-27-2017, 12:37 PM
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Beemer Boneyard sells a set of hoses and clamps. From my K I remember that hose inside the tank is different, Not sure why. Replacing them is on my "winter" list to do.

Flexible In-Tank Fuel Hose Kit Is the hoses.

New Oilhead Fuel Filter Change O-Ring & Hose Clamp Kit Is the the 0-rings.
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Last edited by N41EF; 08-27-2017 at 02:23 PM..
Old 08-27-2017, 02:12 PM
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Just be advised, the more a newbie messes with his bike, the greater chance of failure.

Just ride it for a while.
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2000 R1100S, 2000 Dyna FXDX, 2015 rNineT. 2016 F800GS, 2016 Jeep Rubicon. 2001 Corvette, 1978 Porsche 928. Schwinn Homegrown MTB & Fastback Road Bike. 22 pairs of shoes. 44 bottles of beer.
Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 08-27-2017, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckcarr View Post
Just be advised, the more a newbie messes with his bike, the greater chance of failure.

Just ride it for a while.
Newbie to this bike, but as a former professional wrench...I've spun my share of wrenches on a lot of euro bikes. Here to use (and hopefully add) to the vast knowledge of this strangely located forum.

And yea, I'd far rather ride it a bit to get things sorted. That said with a trip leaving in a little over a week and only a weekend to take care of the PO's neglect, I'm trying to cover as many trouble spots as possible before I leave for 3500 miles.

I understand this all sounds a bit scatterbrained. The trip was planned, then I broke 3 exhaust studs in the cylinder head on my mostly trusty Ulysses. With an out of state consulting job, I knew I wouldn't have time to pull engine (actually remove frame) from the Buell and machine out the sheared bolts.

Looking around in my stable, my only other options were an old Ducati Monster w/ a ton of miles, a flat-track prepped KTM, or an archaic Bonnie.....so I did the reasonable thing and bought a tatty BMW a few hours before I flew out of town. Really looking forward to digging into this bike and getting to know it on the road.

I really appreciate everyone's suggestions so far, I'll be sure to post a quick ride report once I get to my first destination!
Old 08-27-2017, 06:50 PM
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Final drive is finicky and some recommend to use the BMW oil only. It's kinda expensive, but the FD takes very little so a bottle goes a long way.

ATE Gold is the same a ATE blue, except it's in a DOT compliant color. That's what I run these days, but any good Dot4 fluid works, really.

For the trans, I have used Shockproof, it does silence the shifts a bit, but it did funky stuff under heavy heat. I did not like how it looked when coming out (an ugly goop with cludges of "organic matter"). I am now running Castrol GL5 syntrax, it's better than OEM for the shift noises, and it has not done any weird things under heat.

I have used the Autolite plugs and the IRX, the Autolite worked just as well and are dirt cheap. Both worked better than the OE Bosh, especially the bottom ones on dual spark that tend to fool with oil/gas.

On my side, I am interested in what type of electrical wire you guys use to replace the in-tank fuel pump wiring. Last time I changed my pump the wiring looked like crap, I'd rather replace it next time I'm in there.

Last edited by Meeni; 08-27-2017 at 08:59 PM..
Old 08-27-2017, 08:54 PM
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