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Loose front brake rotor

So, I bought a 99 R1100S about two months ago. You all were kind enough to help me with my knocking noise in the swing arm. Turned out to be the pivot pin bearings were missing some needles. Evidently, the previous owner was no as much a mechanic as one would hope for. I replaced them with bushings from RCRG...all is well there. Because of that I started looking over the bike and sure enough I found more loose bolts and such. Now my question is, the left front brake rotor is loose on it's mounting bolts.both in and out and back and forth movement. It seems something is missing in the spacing of the rotor to the wheel. Although the it is not an abs model, should it have an abs sensor wheel under the rotor to take up the gap? There is a step don on the mounting points that is not on the right side and the bolts are tight but the rotor is not.
Thanks again. Was hoping to ride it to Pa. This weekend to the flat track races in Martinsburg, but I am to not feeling as secure with this bike as I had hoped based on everything I've been told about BMW and their reliability. Starting to think that this is not the bike for me. It may soon be for sale aft I work out the issues
Old 09-05-2017, 07:58 PM
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Brent
 
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every shop, in the area has stopped using the rcrg "bushings" they wear out very quickly
you should go back to a new set of stock bearings, Ted porter used to have a set on the
counter that was worn so badly they had begun cutting into the pin.
any way if someone just removed the abs ring on a abs setup for that model year
it will screw up the bushings that set the float and the centering of the disk in the caliiper.
the 1999 ones had a "fat" cast abs ring which was compensated for by both shorter
mounting bosses on the rim and longer bushings for the floating roter,
the later servo abs units had a much thinner stamped ring which used the same bushes and rims
on both abs and non abs ones,
so if it had the abs removed or the rim from a early abs bike you need to add back the missing space
to get the roter to center in the caliipers and compress the wave washers to keep the roter from moving around
I would pull it apart and check if the bushings are worn and see if they are different lenghts from
side to side , if they are, easiest to find a cast/fat abs ring and install it.
my memory could be wrong but I think they are 5mm different.
really they are nice sport touring type bikes, kind of agricultural but nice on a long ride with
some twisties, just their own set of mechanical oddities.
Old 09-05-2017, 10:07 PM
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Brent
 
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also check the final drive for any motion
with the wheel in the air there should be no looseness in the rear wheel bearings or pivoits.
check it with your hands at 6,12 and 9,3 try to twist the rim should be no play.
the telelever is pretty problem free,
Old 09-05-2017, 10:12 PM
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encantado
 
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once you work out the issues, you'll have no reason to sell it

you can check whether your bike originally had ABS at bimmer.work : VIN Decoder for BMW. that won't help if the front wheel has been changed, but it could be a start.

nice color. a nonmetallic light blue repaint is high on the wish list.

i love the smell of smurf in the morning

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Old 09-05-2017, 11:09 PM
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Front discs are held on by a bolt a counter sunk insert that fits inside the disc and underneath a spring washer that takes up the slack with the disc rubbing on the mounting pegs on the wheel it comes with old age the bike is what? 18 years old.

Just unscrew one and see how they work but ironically what you have ended up with is a floating disc which costs a fortune to buy I wouldn't be concerned at all,but if it does I'd change the spring washers first and see how you go.

The para lever bearings in the back are another thing!! it's already been mentioned over the years there have been one or two crazy ideas that have turned up bushing them has been one of them and you would be better off changing such before you get into the wobbly wheel syndrome.

I'd go to the flat track it'll be fine
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Old 09-06-2017, 03:48 AM
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Well, that's disappointing new about the bushings. I thought I was doing an upgrade.. I will be pulling the fork tubes anyway this weekend, as the seals are leaking too. So I will remove the rotor and see what the deal is there. I'm thinking it needs the abs ring for spacing. The PO powder coated the wheels, so I may have to remove the coating on the mounting pints for it to fit properly.. Thanks again for the help. I may sell it anyway. I didn't pay a lot for it, but don't want to put more in it than it's worth. I am a mechanic now for 47 years, although not a bike mechanic and have been riding for 42 years. Never had a bike that was a quirky and required as much petty maintenance as this on. I hope once it is sorted out it I can just ride it and not worry about what might happen next . When riding my other two bikes , I just get on them and ride....it's a great feeling. Might try a nc post a pic of the wheel so you can see
Old 09-06-2017, 04:55 AM
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The 2 pics shown are with me pushing in then pulling out on the rotor
Old 09-06-2017, 05:05 AM
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I'm just guessing off the pictures but it looks like someone has fitted an ABS wheel and then spaced the disc with washers instead of the ring I've done that myself and it worked fine and unless you have a problem other than you think you have a problem I'd leave be,one of the hassles that most bikes have is the front disc being bolted solid and no ability to move when hot that is what warps them,with the movement yours have it means they can follow the pads instead of being forced too.

Re the forks seals unless their really bad again I wouldn't bother my right seal has leaked for years the oil in the forks is just to lube them it doesn't do anything else that is what the front shock is for.

Same with the para lever bearing bushes leave them till there's some movement may as well have your monies worth

Forgot!! Re you pressing the discs that's the spring washer doing that.
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Old 09-06-2017, 05:21 AM
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Thanks for the reply Chris, I understand that floating rotors do just that, they float. However this I think is more than just that. I don't think I should be able to easily move the rotor in and out to make it knock against the wheel. Also I can rotate it clockwise and counterclockwise and make the same noise as if bushings are worn out or the whole size is egg-shaped. I haven't pulled it off yet but I will probably do that Friday. As far as the fork seals go, being they are not difficult to replace as you mentioned all they do is lubricate the tube with oil. I'm going to pull them and change them anyway because being a mechanic I can't sit on the bike and watch oil run down the tube and not do anything about it LOL. Additionally, it's running down far enough to get to the bottom of the fork leg and attract brake dust. So to me that leaves the potential for fork oil getting on the brakes and that would be no bueno. It's a shame this bike so far is putting a bad taste in my mouth . I did write it Saturday for about 200 miles , and disregarding the little mechanical issues I can't say that I'm happy with the buzz in the handlebars and footpegs in the four to 6,000 RPM range . For the most part all I've ever ridden RV Twins and before 's and have never experienced that kind of vibration through the bike . Throttle bodies are perfectly synced and double-checked with multiple vacuum gauges yet The Vibes remain . I will let you know how this all turns out.
Old 09-06-2017, 05:51 AM
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Also I might point out what I forgot to mention is the right side brake rotor is mounted solid and does not budge. So I'm assuming the left should be the same or the right side should move. But I don't believe I should be able to Rock It back and forth as I can in and out
Old 09-06-2017, 05:53 AM
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May I just say don't go thinking my love affair with my 1100s has been a steady one their are plenty of Brits who read this and never post who know I have hated mine with a passion at times so I do understand where you are coming from I'd had 30 years of all things Japanese by 1999 and needed something different and that includes my K and XR cuz their not to everyone's taste either,sorry I've digreessed.

My bad memory says the width of the ABS ring is 4.5mm the early ones we're cast the later where pressed tin and a lot thinner.

As for the forks oddly enough I've just been sorting a spare set out and as you say easy enough to do.

How many miles has the bike done.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:11 AM
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Only a little over 21,000 miles on the clock. Assuming that's accurate it's kind of hard to believe the bike is in such disrepair.
Old 09-06-2017, 08:46 AM
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Tried to expand the picture as much as pos I've seen worse that is for sure also see it has Ohlins on the back.

What mine is really fussy about is fuel,if I don't put the very best in it lets me know through the bars in no uncertain terms

As for balancing the TB's set them as good as you like but one good thrash will soon have them out of sinc.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:01 AM
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I can believe that about the out of sync. I noticed after my 200 mile blast thru the twisties that the idle wasn't as constant. The Ohlins is awesome. Front and rear. Had the ride height adjusted to stock and sprung for my weight. That's the best part about that bike
Old 09-06-2017, 04:50 PM
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It looks like you're missing the wave washers #4, providing the spacer is thick enough it should have just a hint of movement with the washers in there. Your pic sucks so it's impossible to be sure.


Old 09-06-2017, 05:24 PM
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Yeah, I know the pic was bad. There are wave/spring washers in there. Keep in mind I mentioned it not only can be moved in and out , but if you hold the rotor like a steering wheel , you can rock it back and forth too.. Has to be something missing or worn slap out. Will take better pics when it's apart .
Old 09-06-2017, 05:47 PM
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Brent
 
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looks like they used washers to replace the ring, probably the wrong thickness.
the other side should be firm but the wave washers should not be fully compressed.
both sides sound suspisous
if you cant figure it out I will be in the shop over the weekend and I can measure a ring.
Old 09-06-2017, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2BGJGZ View Post
I can believe that about the out of sync. I noticed after my 200 mile blast thru the twisties that the idle wasn't as constant. The Ohlins is awesome. Front and rear. Had the ride height adjusted to stock and sprung for my weight. That's the best part about that bike
To set the TB's anything like you need two people and if you do a search on here there's loads of info although with Photobucket doing what they have done most of the photos have gone.

The bike has certainly been apart just by looking at the black frame and I'm not to keen on the angle of the rear bevel and talking of photos can you do one of the rear master cylinder that doesn't look stock either.

Realise your a little negative about the bike but compared to other photos that have been posted of recent that bike looks a pretty good starting point to me with all the info on here and some TLC,have you had the body work off yet? If is has Ohlins what is underneath

Oh and this is real confession time how do I counter any vibes on the bike I never ride June/July/August use others mine doesn't like dry warm weather and hence why I have just taken the covers off to use it for the end of the year I last used it in May.
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoodwin View Post
It looks like you're missing the wave washers #4, providing the spacer is thick enough it should have just a hint of movement with the washers in there. Your pic sucks so it's impossible to be sure.


So, based on your diagram of the brake rotor and related parts, it looks like the ABS sensor wheel goes on the outside of the rotor rather than underneath it. Is that correct? My plans are to pull the wheel to reseal the fork tubes this evening. I'm also going to remove the bolts for the brake rotor and see what's going on in there. I will do my best to send better pictures
Old 09-07-2017, 05:04 AM
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It's been years since I removed the abs but I'm pretty sure the ring is under the disc against the wheel, hence the spacers to replace it. I replaced my front wheel with a non-abs wheel long ago. The difference between abs & non-abs wheels is that the mount studs are longer on the non-abs wheel on the left side setting the disc out where it would be with the ring behind it on an abs wheel.
Old 09-07-2017, 05:26 AM
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