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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Reviving 2004 R1100S

Greetings! I recently picked up a basket case 2004 BMW R1100S that is need of some TLC. Just looking for tips and suggestions.. When I bought it I knew it needed a new battery and probably hadn't been on the road in a while. We jumped the bike so I could verify that it ran, but it did die at idle. I replaced the battery and got her started, but again she dies at idle. So next steps for me are oil change (engine and final drive), fuel filter and spark plugs. I've picked up a Haynes manual and I see that the throttle bodies probably need to be synced... what else should I look at?

Thanks!
Old 04-06-2018, 05:30 AM
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Hello, it sounds like you are handy with the spanner’s so just the normal servicing stuff.
Any paper trail to show what work has been done in the past few years?
I’m thinking brake fluid, pads, discs, gearbox oil too.
Hours of reading about these bikes on this forum. Enjoy!
Old 04-07-2018, 12:55 PM
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I bought mine new and it never liked to idle cold. Usual routine is to stall 2-3 times before it stays running.

Is there a temp sensor for the ECU on these? Otherwise they run pretty lean.
Old 04-07-2018, 01:36 PM
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Brent
 
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you are using the throttle prop/ choke right?
Old 04-07-2018, 01:51 PM
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There is an intake air temp sensor, under the seat, top of the air box, just behind the battery. Two wire connection, make sure it's seated. My chipped ECU is very stubborn when cold, the stock is better, but hard to get started when below 40, and stumbles until completely warmed up. If it sat a while, Check the intake and make sure nothing made a nest inside. The inlet starts left side of bike just above engine and goes through two pipes to dump straight down on the air filter. You might snake it with something, but you had to take part of it off to get the tank off.

I just did something similar heres my 2 cents.

1. Replace all of the rubber fuel lines. I bought the fuel line kit from Beemer Boneyard for outside the tank. Inside the tank there are two lines that go from the tank vent and cap drain to the fuel pump plate. There are 5mm or 5/16 but have to be rated for fuel exposure in and outside. I found them at the local Cap bike dealer, vittron fuel line. Mine cracked and started a fuel leak, a slow steady drip. BB also sells a tank reseal kit with the seals for the tank plate, lines and clamps.

2. Check the wiring to the fuel pump from the plate inside. The insulation had gone on 90% of mine, I desoldered the two hot wires to the pump and warning light, then heat shrieked them, then soldered them back on.

3. If you don't know when done last, replace all of the fluids.

4. Check the date codes on the tires. My rear tire rode "Hard" it was 15 years old almost but looked new.

5. Again, if you don't know when, adjust the valves, then replace the plugs, then sync the throttle bodies.

6. Did the 2004 have the old style can chain tensioner?

Where you located? Add it to your signature, might be someone local who can also help you out.
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Old 04-07-2018, 04:11 PM
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Talk Less, Say More
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentw1 View Post
you are using the throttle prop/ choke right?
As Brent says.
Make sure this is used. Or even there.




It's not a basket case if it is together whole, and just needs a battery and tune up.
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2000 R1100S, 2000 Dyna FXDX, 2015 rNineT. 2016 F800GS, 2016 Jeep Rubicon. 2001 Corvette, 1978 Porsche 928. Schwinn Homegrown MTB & Fastback Road Bike. 22 pairs of shoes. 44 bottles of beer.
Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 04-07-2018, 11:33 PM
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Is there suppose to be friction on the fast idle lever? It's a hassle to hold it in position when I could be using that hand to buckle my helmet or putting on my gloves
Old 04-08-2018, 06:19 AM
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Yes, it should hold in the on position. Not friction but sort of a step position lock. Your throttle cables need to be adjusted properly for it to work the way it was intended.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:25 AM
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Good advice above. Since it had been sitting a while (couple of years?), I'm surprised the gas hadn't turned to turpentine. That requires a complete draining of everything with fuel in it to purge it, which would include the fuel manifold and regulator. If correct adjustment of the high idle cable won't work, consider going through everything with fuel in it.

If you have a stock Motronic (no chip upgrade), consider running open loop (disconnect O2 sensor). It will run richer, probably suffer a little in the gas mileage but mine ran surprisingly well in this mode before I chipped it, then I had to have the O2 or there was no point in the chip.

Best of luck...
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:44 AM
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Brent
 
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yeah the choke, throttle props commonly break the housing, and if you take it apart
there should be a ball/spring detent to hold it open,as I remember it.
you might check the cables, throttle bodies etc that they arent sticky and ajusted properly,
more likely the problem than gas
Old 04-08-2018, 10:07 AM
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The throttle prop on mine goes from down (slow idle) and I can lift it up and it catches (fast idle), but I can also lift it a little more from the where it stops, and it raises the idle a little more. Is that normal?
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:26 AM
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Yes.
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* '83 GPZ 550-gone to a newbie * '75 CB400F-retired to AZ.
Old 04-08-2018, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N41EF View Post
The throttle prop on mine goes from down (slow idle) and I can lift it up and it catches (fast idle), but I can also lift it a little more from the where it stops, and it raises the idle a little more. Is that normal?
Yes, pull the lever all the way when pressing the starter button. Then let the idle prop at the fast-idle until its unecessary (not very long, typically 1/2 mile of riding, no idle warmup necessary). Then push it back to the normal idle position.
Old 04-10-2018, 04:28 PM
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