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Coolant Loss Issue

Well I was driving yesterday when the coolant light began to flash, temp hit 200, so I went home and filled the coolant, which was really low. When looking through the fill, there wasn't any coolant all the way down. I put in about 3 quarts [ capacity 2.5 gal.]
which was a lot of loss. But There wasn't any leaking. [?] The level stayed steady at the 1/2 min-max mark.

Driving today, about 10 miles back and forth, not only did the light come on but the temperature shot up. I pulled into the driveway just as it hit 250.

No check engine light, no other diagnostic light, just the flashing coolant light.
[meter/check codes?]

When I got out of the car, I could hear a loud whine from the trunk.
Opened it to find that the coolant cap was venting hot coolant steam, and of course the loud and unnerving hissing-whine, from the cap.

After a few moments it stopped. Waited till it all cooled down and slowly and carefully removed the cap. Same issue as above. No visible coolant in fill. I again put about 2 quarts, level hit between min-max.

No leaks under car, coolant level hold steady.

The mix is 1 gal. Porsche coolant [bought though Pelican], and 1 gal. distilled water.
Shaken, not stirred to mix. Let sit. Yes, nice and pink when poured.

The coolant tank is brand new, perhaps has a thousand miles on it. Cap came with the tank. Porsche, not OEM. Put on by a reputable shop which specializes in German cars. I screwed that cap down properly, real tight.

No overflow. No leaks. I'm loosing coolant when driving, only.

Any ideas?

Obviously I can't drive it. Next steps is to load it on a flatbed, and drop it off at the shop.

{Poor Boxie}


Thanks, as always!
Old 06-28-2018, 01:22 PM
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The shop that did the work will need to pressure test the system to find the leak. They could have missed tightening a connection when they replaced the tank or a hose may have cracked when being disturbed during the replacement.
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:09 AM
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Thanks for the,feedback.

It was replaced about 2 years ago.
Never had a problem since.

Don't think it's the reservoir. I would have seen something.

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Old 06-29-2018, 02:50 PM
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Even though the cap and tank are new, I would check the part number on the cap. There have been 'improvements' along the way, and there is an updated version.
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:19 AM
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Hey thanks.

Cap is a black Blau cap, sold in Pelican parts catalogue [where I got it] with thw necessary "04" designation, the improved and latest.


Here's what I did this morning.

I opened the trunk, took off the bleeder cover, added some more coolant to top it to proper measure, and turned on the car.

Ran it, checked the temperature, coolant level, bleeder valve, cap.

After 15 minutes everything OK, checked around and under car for leakage, especially around the overflow tube.

Nothing.

After 30 minutes, I saw the needle just go over 180, at that point turned off the car.
No leakage, boil-over, etc.

HOWEVER

The fans never went on.

Soooo???
Old 06-30-2018, 08:42 AM
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Start the car again when cool and turn on the A/C. Go to the front of the car and listen at each corner. If the fans are not working, then check relays and fuses. It is not unusual for the fans to fail, but both at the same time points to electrical feed. You may need to test if power is getting to the fan. If the fans are toast, then is shopping time again.
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipjadler View Post
Hey thanks.

Cap is a black Blau cap, sold in Pelican parts catalogue [where I got it] with thw necessary "04" designation, the improved and latest.


Here's what I did this morning.

I opened the trunk, took off the bleeder cover, added some more coolant to top it to proper measure, and turned on the car.

Ran it, checked the temperature, coolant level, bleeder valve, cap.

After 15 minutes everything OK, checked around and under car for leakage, especially around the overflow tube.

Nothing.

After 30 minutes, I saw the needle just go over 180, at that point turned off the car.
No leakage, boil-over, etc.

HOWEVER

The fans never went on.

Soooo???
Going over 230 isn't acceptable. If the heat hits 210, pull it over immediately, get down on the ground, see if anything is leaking out. Carry a gallon or two of distilled water and keep the reservoir topped up to halfway. Is the carpet below the coolant tank wet?

Do not overheat it again. You can damage the engine really fast with with heat. I'd probably ask a shop what to do. You will likely have to haul it in.
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Old 07-02-2018, 09:34 AM
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Thanks for your response.
If you could read the whole thread, you'll see that all your suggestions have already been implemented.

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Old 07-02-2018, 11:35 AM
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what year is your car?
front left is a plastic coolant assembly on later cars, prone to start leaking.

however, if your car get's that hot, i think it's not running dry, it's just not circulating, and then it overheats and pushes out steam..

how recent is your water pump??

do the front rads get warm??
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:40 AM
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It'll be legen-waitforit
 
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Do the water pump and thermo
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:37 PM
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Cool Thanks for all the help, but this is what I did...

A major bleed.
I mean major!

Each morning for 3 hours over 3 days.
Before this I bought a Stant Cooling System Pressure Tester [12270] and a Stant Adapter [12016] and tested the pressure in the system.

Pressure held, no drop, no leaks, passed with flying colors!

By-the-way, does anyone know of an adapter that would fit the coolant tank cap?
Can't find one.

Back to the car, on the third day the coolant level held between min/max, temp hit 180-190 after 3 hrs. I took out this morning for a do errands spin around the neighbor, hit 190 fans came on everything seems OK. No red flashing light, No check engine.

Tomorrow, I'll try a long highway drive and let everyone know.

[Whew!]
Old 07-18-2018, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipjadler View Post
A major bleed.
I mean major!

Each morning for 3 hours over 3 days.
Before this I bought a Stant Cooling System Pressure Tester [12270] and a Stant Adapter [12016] and tested the pressure in the system.

Pressure held, no drop, no leaks, passed with flying colors!

By-the-way, does anyone know of an adapter that would fit the coolant tank cap?
Can't find one.

Back to the car, on the third day the coolant level held between min/max, temp hit 180-190 after 3 hrs. I took out this morning for a do errands spin around the neighbor, hit 190 fans came on everything seems OK. No red flashing light, No check engine.

Tomorrow, I'll try a long highway drive and let everyone know.

[Whew!]
12017 threaded cap adapter
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:31 PM
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1 there is no reason why air would suddenly develop in the system if there wasn't another problem
If air comes in, coolant must have gone out somewhere.

2 you can bleed perfectly fine without any tools, with the release bleed valve.
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Old 07-19-2018, 12:55 AM
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Thanks for everyone's concerns/comments on this thread, but it's time to finally put it to bed.

As my father told me over and over S.S.F. [Simple Stuff First] or was it K.I.S.S.?
Anyway..

The result of all the issues was a bad/blown coolant cap. This was solved after doing a proper bleed and fill of the system and then doing a coolant system pressure test, as well as the cap. The cap which was a black Blau cap that I bought from Pelican about 2 years ago wouldn't hold any pressure. It was replaced with the original blue cap that I still had and all is well.

Thank god for impulse control! Can you imagine the time, money, parts, and the car open only to be scratching my head?

It pays to do the proper tests first to resolve where the problems may lie!

WHEW!
Old 08-03-2018, 05:15 AM
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