Help Request: Coolant Flush

[pelsteve1]

Yea, I know, you've probably heard this one a million times.

So while waiting for some parts to arrive, I decided I might as well flush the coolant.

I have the cold car up on jacks in the garage with the front about 3 inches higher than the back. I have the vent valve open, the coolant cap loose, 3 hoses underneath disconnected and even the thermostat quite loose, but not removed, just hanging on the 4 very loose bolts.

I turned the ignition switch to run, heater on high and fan on low, per the DIY article, but which, incidentally, didn't seem to do anything at all.

I only collected a total of about 12.6 liters after letting it sit overnight (with minimal splash outside the catch bin) and I checked that the fluid level was basically full before starting any of this.

My expectation was it should be closer to 19 liters per the DIY article.

I'm tempted to pull the thermostat completely and just replace it also, but I really don't expect any more fluid as a result of this, it is quite loose already.

What could I be missing here?

[CarGuyNeil]

I thought the back of the car should be higher than the front...

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[pelsteve1]

I thought i read that due to the front radiator location, the front needed to be higher. But in any case, I actually started out level and only raised the front afterwards by the 3 inches to try to source more coolant, but not much more came out. In any case, I have trouble believing 3 inch delta from the jack mounts with open tubing would be the cause. Just don't understand why there is such a discrepancy.

I'm a bit suspicious about the heater setting aspect discussed above, as it didn't seem to do anything, and wondering what the expected response is here and how to verify such correctly.

And just to confirm, this is 01 Boxster S, 6 spd manual

[stealthn]

There is a ton of cranny’s air can get into, it’s better if you can use a vacuum fill.

[mistertate]

You need the nose low to fill.
Lift the nose to dump it all out and then lower it to fill. Then the bleeder is at the high point when you fill and coolant easily flows to the radiators.
Dumped it out into 8.5 empty milk jugs and put that same amount back in, easy.

[pelsteve1]

Yea, so far, i did a partial fill, left cap and bleeder open, ended up boiling over. Front end still up. Just waiting to wrap up my PS fluid purge (waiting on a 2nd 15mm wrench to arrive) and then will start reassembling underneath (axle work) and finally finish the coolant bleed. Will update in about 2 weeks.

[pelsteve1]

Well, wrapping up the coolant. I did end up swapping the thermostat (as I had one on hand, will keep the old one a backup). Didn't swap the pump though, even though had one also (too lazy). Put the nose down and bled the system through the vent as well as when it was level. I also had a bad coolant quick connect as evidenced by the dried coolant residue on the line (in the engine bay right next to the AOS just inside the wall next to the reservoir). For now, I just straight piped it, waiting on another quick connect to arrive. Used Zerex pink G40 mixed 50/50/

One thing I did notice was that during warm up, the temp on the dash was stable at 180F, but at one point, the amber indicator light on the temp gauge started flashing. I turned off the engine, added more coolant and tried warming up again. No flashing light since.

Is this normal?? Does that amber light indicate low coolant level?

But overall, seems to be running ok. I am waiting arrival of a manual actuated vacuum setup to try bleeding as was suggested, but I think I'm good to go.

[JFP in PA]

Four functions of the coolant warning light:

1. Engine coolant level too low
— light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz)
2. Engine compartment temperature too high
— light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty)
3. Engine coolant temperature too high
— light is lit; pointer on the right
4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty
— light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right

Note
The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously
(1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)

[pelsteve1]

yup, so at least I know my warning system is working too... on to the next project