Replacement of Serpentine Belt Tensioner Lever on 2008 987.1 Cayman S

[mhartranft]

Never fails - Murphy's Law strikes when your guard is down !

During the procedure of replacing serpentine belt idlers and tensioner pulley on my 2008 Cayman S, all went well until efforts to remove the tensioner pulley resulted in rounding off of the 15mm "blind" bolt head - courtesy of what I assume is factory use of Red LocTite. While I could likely resort to vice-grips to grab the bolt head and reinstall new pulley, I am also considering removal the the Pulley Tensioner Lever which I believe can be accomplished by:

a) removal of alternator
b) removal of oil fill tube
c) removal of a M6 x 16 (900 067 117 03) hex bolt which appears to anchor the tensioner lever into the tensioner.
d) pry out the tensioner lever / tensioner pulley
e) replace pulley / hardware and re-install.

Would appreciate any guidance / feedback

Marc

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by mhartranft

Never fails - Murphy's Law strikes when your guard is down !

During the procedure of replacing serpentine belt idlers and tensioner pulley on my 2008 Cayman S, all went well until efforts to remove the tensioner pulley resulted in rounding off of the 15mm "blind" bolt head - courtesy of what I assume is factory use of Red LocTite. While I could likely resort to vice-grips to grab the bolt head and reinstall new pulley, I am also considering removal the the Pulley Tensioner Lever which I believe can be accomplished by:

a) removal of alternator
b) removal of oil fill tube
c) removal of a M6 x 16 (900 067 117 03) hex bolt which appears to anchor the tensioner lever into the tensioner.
d) pry out the tensioner lever / tensioner pulley
e) replace pulley / hardware and re-install.

Would appreciate any guidance / feedback

Marc

I don't have a 2008. However... in my 98 Box I've removed the pulleys, including the tensioner, and am familiar with the tensioner pulley... having removed it to grease it up.

Can you just dremel off the bolt... and then install the new bolt and nut? Seems easier than the steps you mentioned. The bolt doesn't have to come off all pretty and everything... just get it off and out of there.

No? Too easy?

[mhartranft]

Thank you for your inputs Starter986 - much appreciated.

Given there is inadequate clearance between this tensioner pulley bolt and the block, even if one would cutoff the bolt and extract the remnant, you are still faced with no means to insert the replacement bolt as its length is longer than the provided clearance. Ultimately, it appears removal of the tensioner level / arm is the only way to replace this bolt.

Marc

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by mhartranft

Thank you for your inputs Starter986 - much appreciated.

Given there is inadequate clearance between this tensioner pulley bolt and the block, even if one would cutoff the bolt and extract the remnant, you are still faced with no means to insert the replacement bolt as its length is longer than the provided clearance. Ultimately, it appears removal of the tensioner level / arm is the only way to replace this bolt.

Marc

I can see clearly now, lol. Yes... cutting off the head of the bolt still leaves you with the length of the bolt that can't be removed from behind like that. Bolt has to come off. Ughhhh. Keep us posted.

[mhartranft]

An Update - and - request for additional guidance.

Managed to remove the alternator without incident, but soon realized that removal of the oil fill tube under the resonance tube was not possible - able to access only 1 of 2 torqx bolts which fastens the tube to the block.

So, to gain access best access, it appears that removal of the distributor tube and resonance is the next step.

Can anyone provide guidance on removal of the distributor tube. It appears that one needs to loosen the 4 circular hose clamps for the sleeves at the top of the distributor tube between the intake runners - AND - the hose clamps that clamp between throttle body and connector to the MAF tube. Tight quarters in this area.. and would like to avoid a major hack at this point!

Thanks in advance!

Marc

[mhartranft]

What should be the final update!

Access to the single 6mm hex panhead bolt that secures the tensioner lever in the drive belt tensioner was finally accomplished...

A couple of key steps:

removal of induction tubes - both distributor and resonator tubes. rubber vacuum lines were hardened enough that i resorted to cutting the rubber line so as to remove from the vacuum hardline. Wanted to avoid damage to plastic fittings on vacuum switches and modulators. will replace with silicone vacuum line.

gained working clearance by disconnection of starter motor cables and loom support bracket.

disconnected oil fill tube which drops into the top of the motor directly behind the access to the 6mm panhead bolt used to secure the tensioner lever in the belt tensioner.....5 mm hex. Simply move tube aside. As this is a direct access to oil sump, placed clean rag in opening to avoid dropping anything into the motor!

bolt out - removed tensioner lever + still attached tensioner pulley from front of motor. Once pulled out as far as able, need to rotate assembly approx 45 degrees CCW to gain extra clearance required to clear outline of access opening.

Reassemble..... only I will remove what appears to be red locktite on the replacement tensioner pulley bolt and use blue 243 instead....