![]() |
Need help ASAP - Dead battery can't open trunk
I've tried everything to get in, red fuse under dash stopped working, cable in wheel arch didn't work, connecting live to c3 fuse didn't work
Here's how it started, battery a year old but car been stood for almost a year too. Tried the red fuse trick and it worked, took battery out and put another one in so I could use the power to access trunk again later but realised that was a dead battery so put the other one back in but a few hours later when I went went back it failed to work Iv tried everything possible, even had the fuse connected to a running car. Cable doesn't open it, tried inline fuse to a few different lower terminals on fuses that should of activated the solenoid but nothing What is my last option? Car needs moving ASAP as it's been getting tickets daily Is it correct that an obd can open it or that a specialist can do it without damaging the car |
What year and model?
Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk |
Sorry, it's a 2006 987.1 Boxster
|
On my 2001 Boxster I used a lithium jump pack on a completely dead battery( sitting for years) to pop the frunk. I attached the leads to the red pull out at the fuse box and the door hinge for ground. Sometimes it needs the power of a jump pack to force power to a dead battery.
Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk |
As stated, tried that we've tried everything but nothings worked
|
Did you remove the wheel liner and pull the cable? Both the front and rear trunks have them.
Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk |
Yes tried everything that's supposed to work
|
Where are you located?
Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk |
I'm in Lancaster, North West
|
Maybe ask for help from your local Porsche group.
Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk |
ask for help on boxa.net. It being UK based you may find someone local who can help.
|
Got in mine thru bottom of frunk
Mine is a 2002 986 base. The fuse box method didn't work and the emergency cable turned out to be broken off. Under the front of the car are 4 access panels. They're glued in. Drilled a couple of little holes at the edge of the larger driver side one. Drove an Airforce survival knife in and tapped the back of blade with a hammer till it came off. Pushed the carpet aside. Laid a flash light on the floor of frunk so I could see. With a 10mm socket and rachet wrench removed the two bolts holding the hood latch. Was able to lift the hood a couple of inches and release the latch.
Removed the latch completely. Use a short rubber tarpolin strap hooked the spare tire spokes and inside hood supports to hold it close. Had to tie a couple of knots in the rubber trap to make it short enough. I'm going to have lockable racing hood pins installed. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:44 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website