Lots of different comments on oil weights...I can't decide.
 

0w/40w or what for the 2.7? Seems to me that a few years back the old 10w/40w became obsolete during some kind of reformulation or viscosity ratings change. Is the 0w/ 40w the new 10w/ 40?

Mike, I know what you recommend, 10w/ 50w in hot climates and we have hot weather here in SoCal for 4 months. The car does not see hard use.

Any oil guys here? I may cross post this somewhere.

Milt, Charles Navarro (LN Engineering and Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations) both feel Mobil 1 0W40 is crap (way too thin and breaks down easily).

10W40 or even 15W50 is highly recommended in flavors other than M1.

I use Royal Purple 10W40 and could care less if it's on the "approved list"...I want my engine to last. I also change my oil once a year, which for equates to about 3000 miles; but 5 to 6k miles is recommended over the extended change intervals.

Please check out both Charle's and Jake's websites for good Boxster (M96 engine) advice.

Milt,
The first number is what it is winterized to, the second number is far more important. The older 2.7 needed a SAE 50 at operating temps (above 100C) - the fact that it was a 20W50 is because years ago they just didn't have pour point depressant technology to bring down the low temp viscosity. That is not the case. You can find 0W40 on the market but really if you don't live up in the Northwest territories you don't need it.

In fact, if your car never sees temps lower than 60F, there really is no need to use a winterized oil - you can stick to a SAE 50. I have known many folks to drop a viscosity grade without incident and actually save a little of gas costs.

So - you can actually use a SAE 15W40 if you drive in the winter (sub 40F) or a SAE 40 if you live in Hawaii.

Thanks for your replies. I'm going to use the 0w 40w Mobile1 "Euro" that I have for now. I guess I'll look for some Motul in a better weight range before too long. We do live near the beach, so 100* temps are rare.

I use Mobil1 - 0W40 . I figure if the factory recommends it, it must be a good thing. Clearly the porsche engineers have given this a bit of thought, and done a bit of research, before making this recomendation, for their engines. They know a lot more about it than I do.

They're also the same engineers that are responsible for slipped sleeves, D-chunks, leaking RMS seals, failed IMS bearings, etc, etc.

Recommending Mobil 1 is nothing more than marketing and putting additional dollars in Porsche AG's pockets (which they need at this time).

I would run Mobil 1 10W40 or 15W50 in a warm climate year round like Milts. Just my $.02

I agree with both statements above. The thing is, 15w 50w, 5w 40w, 10w 40w and 15w 40w are all but impossible to find around here. All the oils at WallyMart are 5w 20w.

But, I have to agree with Lubey, it's more of the high number than the low. I think a 5w 50w would be ideal. Never seen that, though.

I'll run this 0w 40w for a few miles and dump it. It will cleanse the engine.

They are also the same engineers who brought us the 356, 73 RS, 917, 956, , CGT, 997 RSR etc...

I do not fully buy the opinion that Mobil is the recommended oil because they are filling Porsche's pockets with money now that times are tough. Times have only been tough recently. They have been recommending that oil for a long time.

I do not think that Mobil 1 is the be all end all... but I have not drank the other punch either.

FWIW, I chose Royal Purple 5w-40 for my Boxster (2.5). I sent off a sample for a VOA and was a little concerned with 726 ppm zinc and 6xx ppm Phosphorus.

I'm strongly considering Redline 5w-40 for my next change.

Even with that said, the RP quieted my engine, and it dose seam to run a little cooler then with the M1.

There are plenty of good oils out there, some are approved, some aren't.

They are also the same engineers who brought us the 356, 73 RS, 917, 956, , CGT, 997 RSR etc...

Some perhaps, but the accountants have taken over. Specialty cars, as you've sighted, have never been built alongside common "street" cars that we purchase today.

Shell used to be the factory fill and somewhere along the line, Mobil must have offered more "incentive". No one said this is a recent phenomenon...just an observation. Porsche didn't put Mobil 1 stickers on all those cars for gratis.

First post Here
 

Hey guys. Just popped over from the 911 forum for the first time. I have a 2006 Boxster S and an '89 Carrera. I saw this old post on oils and wanted to add something I just heard on the 911 forum regarding oils.

We were discussing 911 oils when I mentioned my 2006 Boxster S. Some of the independent Porsche gurus over there said they wouldn't use M1 0W-40 in any Porsche.

Their choice, at least one of the shops, was Total 5W-40 as it was much better than M1. They also said never to use anything higher than 5W40 in vario cam engines. Ie- no 15W50, 20W50, etc.

Any comments?

Mobil-1 has been reformulated and had a lot of the anti-wear additives removed. I would run one of the older formulations instead (Brad Penn, Swepco). I still have a supply of old Mobil-1 with the old formulation for my own cars. I also think the weight of the oil is less important than frequent oil changes, although I don't like to run 0-wt oil in general. I typically run 10 or 20 wt oil (heavier oils recommended in hotter environments). Change your oil every 3000-5000 miles - way more important than the brand / weight of oil.

Charles (LN Engineering) just recently experimented with some super-light weight oils and cooked his engine as a result, so I would probably stay away from those...

-Wayne

Oil Weight
 

It sounds like the people in the know are not M1 fans despite the factory recommendations (which I'm sure has at least some monetary considerations). The comments are fairly consistent cross the feedback spectrum by knowledgeable people.

The comment about running anything greater than 5W40 in a Boxster is the real question. I have heard other sources also say that vario cam engines need the lighter weight oils or you can have problems. In fact I heard heavier oils may even set a check engine light (but that's completely unverified).

Regarding Total 5W40, that's what I'm running in my 2004 Boxster S right now but I haven't seen any oil analysis comparisons of it to M1, Royal Purple, Motul, etc. I'm wondering why Total is getting so much interest lately.

For my '01 2.7 I'm considering the Mobil Delvac formulation for my next change as opposed to the standard Mobil1 formula. Mobil1 Truck/Diesel 05W40 is the same formula as Mobil Delvac, just packaged in the quarts and renamed. It appears to be readily available at just about any of the auto places I've visited.

Steve

I used Mobil 1 in almost everything I own, but for the Boxster I've gone with RedLine 5W40. No more clacking noise on start up and the lifters are much quieter.

I've driven the car to and from Watkins Glen and NJMP in over 100 degree heat and the temp gauge stayed at 185 the whole time.

My only complaint is you can't find it everywhere.

Since this post started over one year ago, I must modify my choice of oil. Though I feel Royal Purple is still a very good choice, I'm now on my third fill of Castrol Syntec 10W40, based upon input from some very knowledgeable folks. The engine continues to run smoothly, while I still freshen the crankcase every 3000 miles, at most.

If I could find a place in the southbay area that sells Redline or Motul in 5w40, I would be very, very happy.

Well, you can call Callas and see if they will sell you some. Maybe they've changed their tune.

I haven't gotten mine yet, but there's supposedly a place in Huntington Beach that has it in stock. Their ph no is 714 602-5741.

I think I'm going to try to buy some online out-of-state and let the lack of tax offset the shipping. I'll let you know.

I have used 0-40 since new, now a 74K, and does not use oil and runs grreat. Also all oil analysis results have been outstanding. I have decide to supplement the 0-40 with two quarts of 10-40 Mobile one motorcycle oil, just as a booster. Not really needed though. change it once a year or 7,500 and you will be fine. Oil threads can get real personal.

In what car, nothing in your signature..

It is an 01 Boxster S. I hate signatures. Especially the ones where people feel the need to list ever stupid option their car has.

I only wonder now if your little Boxster will fit there..

For those of you thinking about using Red Line 5W40, I think the best price is found at Racer Parts Wholesale .

Motor Oils - Red Line 5W40 Motor Oil

I thought the issue with the 0w40 vs. 5w40 M1 was more about the additive package with the 5w40 having the older SL rating with more phosphorus and zinc. The newer SM rated oils are "greener". That's another reason the Castrol Syntec 5w40 with the SL rating looks good. I seem to see it more readily available than the 5w40 M1.... C.

List away. Some folks feel the need to compensate for many reasons. Note sure what yours may be. You did not list the color stitching option for you car. Must be hard holding back that much.

Well then.. At 1st I thought maybe you didn't intend on tossing that shot about signatures (which I took to be at me) when all I was trying to do was help you and I misunderstood and reacted badly. My signature has a description of the options on my project because so many people wanted to know the details. But reading this last response it's apparent you did direct the insult in my direction (and of course at many here with lengthy signatures). Good luck from this point on, I think my reputation here is that I try and help people but in your case i'll just wish you well...

Castrol Syntec 10W40 is my new oil of choice here in So.CA for my new engine. It seems to me factory 0wt recommendations help raise EPA MPG & CAFE ratings.

Most will agree that most engine wear occurs at startup. 0W should provide lubrication quicker than any weight above it.

My 01 has has 84,000 miles all on 12-15 month M1 0W-40 oil changes and has never used any oil. Blackstone oil analysis results have been fine.

Has anyone used Shell Helix 5W-40? Checked with Shell & ZDDP levels 1228ppm.

Oh well in that case I misunderstood you as well. Right. Dont need your help Gary. You are the one that took it wrong and shot right back. I simply clarified the situation. How in the world did I make it 40 years building engines and working on cars and bikes with out you. Maybe you should think before you type. How did making your condescending comment help? I will take help from those that are more secure and less quick to pull the trigger.

Can't you boys have this cat-fight somewhere else? You're boring the rest of us who want to talk about oil.

Now, as I was saying, Mobil Delvac is a CJ-4 formulation. I think it's worth considering, and it comes in a 05W40... although Mobil still stands behind their standard petrol-engine formula in the FAQ area of their website (as they would), they say that Mobil Delvac would perform well in all HP gasoline engines.

Steve

Probably but it is entertaining. The oil formulated for diesel engines have a very high ash/soot holding additive. This displaces room for other more important components. There are other differences. I would stick with an oil designed for gasoline engines. The amount of zinc and phosphorus your CATs can tolerate is debatable. If you do not have them it is not an issue. The 0-40 euro still has a good package. And like I said before, I add two quarts of the 10-40 Mobile one motorcycle oil just to bump it up a bit. We still have to have good CATs for smog checks here in Ca. The M1 0-40 gives great cold start lubrication not that other viscosities dont. Unless you are going to be driving great distances on each start up why not minimize wear where it occurs the most, on start up. Also my oil analysis shows it is working extremely well. About 7500 too 8500 between changes max, or one year. You will get a great deal of advise and most will be convinced of their oil. Just take it all in , do some more research and in the interim just change what ever you use regularly.

Looks like there's an Amsoil dealer here in my area who will deliver to my house! No shipping charges. Their 'european formula' is 05W40.

I hear a lot of good things about Amsoil, my impression is that it's right up there with the rest of the fine boutique oils. The specs look good.

AMSOIL - European 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFL)

Steve

Problems begin with the fact that no Amsoil products actually hold any ACEA ratings………in fact, Amsoil does not participate in the ACEA testing program; they evade this issue by saying their products are “recommended” for applications requiring ACEA ratings (in the same manner as Red Line and RP)…….. Recommended by whom? Their marketing department? What possible bias could they have?

You can do better for less money…………

So, what do you recommend? My brain is a blur after reading all this oil stuff... I'm about about ready to draw a name out of a hat!

Steve

Based upon literally hundreds of UoA’s, collected over many years, we use Castrol Syntec 10W-40. Holds ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings, shows excellent TBN’s and the ability to stay in grade under high temp/high shear conditions…………..and I have personally seen this product in 5 quart containers at two local Wal-Mart’s for less than $25 a jug………