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Need a DIY for replacing the oil fill tube

I've been searching around for a vacuum leak after I got a CEL with the 1126 code and I'm almost positive it's coming from the middle of the oil fill tube under the center section of the intake system. I can hear some hissing at idle and when I press down gently on the exposed part of the oil fill tube as it disappears under the intake the hissing sound gets louder and the motor starts running rough.

So if there's a DIY someplace with a bunch of pictures I could sure use the help.
Old 03-03-2011, 10:16 AM
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What year? Boxster or Boxster S?
Old 03-03-2011, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale_K View Post
I've been searching around for a vacuum leak after I got a CEL with the 1126 code and I'm almost positive it's coming from the middle of the oil fill tube under the center section of the intake system. I can hear some hissing at idle and when I press down gently on the exposed part of the oil fill tube as it disappears under the intake the hissing sound gets louder and the motor starts running rough.

So if there's a DIY someplace with a bunch of pictures I could sure use the help.
there are a couple of vacuum lines that run either over or under the oil refill tube that connect on the bottom of the rubber connector (which get brittle with old age) of the front intake manifold. Sound like you might be tugging on that tube and that would certainly make the engine run rough. Look for it it's a small tube
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale_K View Post
I can hear some hissing at idle and when I press down gently on the exposed part of the oil fill tube as it disappears under the intake the hissing sound gets louder and the motor starts running rough.
You can also check by removing your oil filler cap in the rear trunk. If you remove the cap and there is no or little change in the running of the engine, then you have a leak in the tube (most likely).

-Wayne
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:07 PM
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The car is a 2000 S Tip. I've already done the AOS oil cap test and that seems OK. And thanks Harry, for the tip about a vacuum line. I should probably hold off simply ordering a new oil fill tube until I can see the actual problem. I'm thinking about taking the car to the independent shop in Little Rock instead of attempting to fix it myself. The accessibility looks pretty tight in there and I'm worried I'll mess up the job.
Old 03-04-2011, 05:19 AM
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It's probably a good idea to have it looked over before ordering parts. I thought mine was split but it ended up that the joint where the two pipes meet in the middle was leaking. I replaced the spring clamp with a worm gear type and that fixed the problem.

Steve
2000 2.7L
Old 03-04-2011, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BerneseMtnDog View Post
It's probably a good idea to have it looked over before ordering parts. I thought mine was split but it ended up that the joint where the two pipes meet in the middle was leaking. I replaced the spring clamp with a worm gear type and that fixed the problem.

Steve
2000 2.7L
How did you access this area? Is it necessary to remove the entire intake manifold system or can you get to the tube if you take out the throttle body and the middle couplings between the manifold halves?
Old 03-04-2011, 11:20 AM
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On my car I thought I had a split in the flexible accordion area in the spot between the middle joint and the trunk bulkhead. I replaced that part only to see seepage at the middle joint. After replacing the clamp with a worm drive type all is good. The middle joint area is right on top of the engine and doesn't require removing anything but the engine cover. The section that goes to the trunk is fiddly to get at but you can also do it without removing anything. The section that goes from the middle joint to the engine I'm not sure about. Mine is still the original part. The main thing that's tricky is getting those dang spring clamps off.

Steve
Old 03-04-2011, 01:28 PM
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I got the car back from the shop yesterday. They had some trouble finding the intake leak. They could hear something when they moved the rear (accessible) section of the tube by hand and it sounded like under the center of the engine but they said the leak actually came from the accordian section near the rear firewall. They showed me the old tube and there was deterioration but I'm not totally convinced that was the only problem based on how distinctly the sound seemed to come from another spot. No codes so far and the car runs fine so they could be right. The bill was a little over $300, which I'm happy to pay if it fixes it.
Old 03-16-2011, 05:42 AM
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2001 boxster base 85000 mi. Changed the oil and filter Friday. Out for a drive Sunday and CEL come on at a stoplight. Code 1128 and 1130 pending. Pulled the MAF and used almost an entire can of MAF cleaner on it. Reinstalled the MAF, started the engine with the cover off. Noticed a puddle of oil on the engine below the oil filler tube. tube has been replaced by previous owner part number sticker with manuf. date of '04. AOS is covered with oil and dirt debris. Can hear hissing from this area tried to feel for an air leak (suction) around the filler tube but nothing but a hand full of oil. Pulled the oil filler cap with car running and engine bogged to rough idle. Replaced cap and cover and went for a drive. Engine ran smoother than before the MAF clean. No CEL but checked for pending codes. Both P1128 pending and P1130 pending. Any ideas?
Old 05-20-2013, 06:58 PM
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Eloomis,
Replace the MAF and clear the codes. Cleaning does not usually work.
Old 05-23-2013, 05:27 PM
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Replaced MAF still have codes 1128 and 1130. Found hissing sound, AOS bellows tube split in three places. Parts on order.
Old 06-02-2013, 04:59 PM
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Replaced AOS and bellows tube, took the car for a couple drives and the CEL is now no longer illuminated. Hooked up the code reader and codes are still showing. Will the DME eventually erase the codes or do I need to erase them with the reader?
Old 06-06-2013, 03:40 PM
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:40 PM
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