PSS9 setup for dummies
 

So I just had my first track day this year after my PSS9 have been installed
And now I finally know that I am in over my head. :confused:

So when I started with track driving a few years ago, the only "setup" I could do was to play with the tire pressure, OK not that hard and I know how to do it
Then I added Tarrett front/rear sway bars, last year, OK I figured that out as well.
Now I added the PSS9 to the mix and I am finally in over my head.
My laptimes compared to last year INCREASED by 2 ~ 3 seconds (but admittedly I also went from Sport Cups to Dunlop Star Specs)

Does anyone have a few good links or tips?
How do I decide what stiffness/softness to use?

Thanks in advance

It's something that is a fine art. I didn't do mine on my Boxster - I left it up to Steve Alarcon at Johnson's alignment. Steve was driver of the year with the POC last year, and knows how to setup the car. He did it right, as we took it out to the track recently, and it was dialed in perfectly. We had PSS9s, Tarett sway bars and adjustable camber plates.

-Wayne

If you're in the SF area, you might want to take the car over to Jerry Woods and have him or Rich dial it in for you. The guys at WEVO also do this type of stuff too. I think that Elephant Racing is starting to work on cars as well these days.

-Wayne

Hey Chris,

Good to meet you at laguna the other day. How great is this you get to figure the whole suspension deal out, and then I can just copy! See you out at the track sometime soon.

Shaun

Shaun,

that was really nice to meet you in L-S last week, too bad you didn't bring your helmet. And yes I'll keep posting what setup I'll eventually settle on

So I asked around a lot at my last trackday, and the only statement that I could get out of most guys was that it's "black magic".
I then found one instructor who gave me better pointers, thanks Craig!
Please forgive me if I am stating the obvious and/or if I get something wrong, I am hoping to start a discussion where everyone chips in a few pearls of wisdom

So the purpose of springs/dampers is to keep the tire in as much contact with the road as possible (duh). Therefore on the ideal super-smooth surface you would set them as hard as possible, with the exception that the front should be one click SOFTER than the rear to compensate for the higher weight in the rear (my car weights 1,480 in the front and 1,740 in the rear).
If you setup your suspension too hard (example if you go with a Thunderhill setup to Buttonwillow) you would notice that the car would get jumpy in turns.
If you setup your suspension too low you would notice that the car starts to bounce.

OK, that's all I have figured out so far
BTW: For daily driving I currently have the front at 6 and the rear at 5 which feels just right for our pothole stricken Californian freeways

Comments? Pearls of wisdom?

Chris,

All of the above makes sense to me. How are your lap times comparing now?

I have asked around a bit and Tony Culichio (not sure of spelling) of TC design in milpitas sound like the suspension setup guy for our cars.

I am going to go down the slope with my suspension soon too.
:eek:

Chris,
I think you are on the right track with dampener settings. I find the effect pretty subtle though. Other setup issues that have a much greater effect on performance are: ride height, rake, f/r camber, and sway settings. My car with PSS9s now has significant rake and the front tires ALWAYS stick, even with cheapie 205 street tires. Getting the front to stick, rear to rotate easily, and all with minimum wheel spin on corner exit is where the voodoo comes in. My setup shop suggests once ride height, rake and camber are in the zone, make changes in sway adjustments first and then fine tune with dampener settings last. My driving style has also changed since running PSS9s. I can attack a corner with more confidence knowing the front end will not wash out into the marbles. A gentler right foot is also required on the throttle.

understeer? what understeer?
understeer = a thing of the past :D