CV boot install?
 

Ok, the new cv boot kit ariived today from our host, after reading the tech articles it appears once all is out of the way I should be able to drop the inner side of the axles (by trans) remove the c-clip, boot and joint. With the inner side removed I should then remove the clamps holding the outter boots then sliding them off backwards towards the removed joint end, then just reverse the process. Is this correct? Any tips are welcome, please>:)

Yup, that should be it. Be sure to keep dirt off of the axle ends and out of the joint. Here's my article on the subject: Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Boxster CV Joints and Boots / Axle Replacement - 986 / 987

-Wayne

Thank you Wayne.

Dont want to sound to dumb, but the clamps that came with the kit are the eared type boot clamps, correct!

Mate,
I did my inner boot Nov last year.
I was able to reuse both clamps.
Ensure you clean the threads of the bolts very well when bolting the CV to the gearbox. Otherwise they come undone and that is expen$$ive.
The biggest thing I found is that the drive cog that is on the end of the drive shaft will fit on the drive shaft both ways. However, you will only get the circlip on one way, so dry assemble first to check.
Not a difficult job, just dirty.

I recieved my parts from our host and was all set to go and realized the circlips were shipped seperate and they have not arrived, so my planning is still being done. That said I have read several people had to brake the ball joints loose to drop the axle from the carrier at the trans. is this true? If so the camber will be affected, no. Please advise if I need to crack the ball joints if I do not plan to remove the axle. Thanks Lenny

bklyn, I didn't replace mine but had to disconnect the inside boot to replace my rear shocks. If you separate the wheel carrier from the wishbone without loosening the eccentric bolt then theoretically you wouldn't effect the camber. Here's the problem, it's not easy to lift the carrier off the wishbone because the shock and spring are in the way. I ended up loosening the eccentric bolt and everything just drops.
When I did my shocks I marked the eccentric bolt and was able to get it back perfectly on one side...but on the other wasn't so lucky and had to get an alignment.
I think Wayne can jump in and correct me where I'm wrong here. I also found the following good link for front and back shocks that might be useful picture wise for you. I used Wayne's for the front but this link for the rears. Boxster Hacks and Instructions

You shouldn't have to disconnect anything on the suspension to disconnect the axles from the transmission - people do this all the time to drop the transmission. If you can't get them off, then there's something else that's amiss...

-Wayne

Thanks gents, as soon as the circlips arrive I will start (hope today) I will let you know.

I thought he was disconnecting from both ends and the wheel carrier side was causing problems. I agree disconnecting from the transmission is a 15 min job each axle...on a Boxster 'S' because the torque values are higher you'll need half inch if using an extender to put back on.

I'm working on a 964 and i'm having a hell of a time getting the boot back onto the joint. Half the grease I put into the damn thing is probably now on my hands as a result of my failed efforts to get the boot back on. Any advice on this?

Axle out -inwards?
 

Great article.
Have read it a few times before I embark on changing the CV boots. I get the idea of dropping it at the transmission end having removed the sway bar and lowered the exhaust, and I can see how with removal of the inner CV joint you can work backwards towards the outer one.
Why cant you use this method to remove the whole shaft from the vehicle by removing the axle nut and pushing the whole shaft inwards and out under the gearbox. Seems this would avoid any messing with the various hub links risking putting your geometry out. And even if only for the boot change would allow an easier job by being able to get it on the bench. What have I missed?
Patrick

you missed nothing, that's exactly how it is done, loosen the big nut, drop you alum cross members and trans plate take off the mid pipe. drop the axle out. Like Wayne said you will need a big hammer unless you have an air supply and an air hammer. If you do be careful not to bugger up the threads. I have a special punch on mine so it cannot slip to the side and get the threads.

Thanks for that . Just to understand it absolutely correctly:- I know the axle nut has a huge torque, so I intend to undo that with a very long bar-5ft or so, that should be OK, shouldnt it? Are you saying that even after the nut is off the shaft will take a load of shifting to drive it backwards out of the hub bearings?

yes for all your questions.
read here what i head to go through to remove the axle.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/657887-rear-axels-rebuild.html
i warmly suggest to use the PB blaster couple of days before hammering the axle out.
don't forget to put on the nut, or use Harry's method with the air hammer.
another tips i can give you.
1. let the rubber boots warm in the sun (or use electric fan) so they will be easy to slide on the shaft. (advice i got from another member, and turned to be very helpful)
2. put all the parts (boots, CV joints and the metal covers) on the shaft in the correct order, and only then grease the joints, and assemble all the parts together.