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smooth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Isabela, Puerto Rico
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I have removed mine thru the interior hatch for inspection/cleaning. Removed the electrical connector bracket in front of it for more access. It's tight but not too bad of a project. It's just a pressure valve with free flowing vacuum from the crankcase but I guess if it's gunked up enough it could cause problems.
Old 04-19-2013, 08:13 PM
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I just changed this and thought I'd add some help to others.

Yes, you have to take off the cover behind the seats, and I pulled out that electrical connection in front of it too. I was able to use two long 1/4" extensions to come in from the top, while looking from the side to loosen the bolt. Once it was fully loose, I used one of those long reach spring finger grabbing thing to grab the bolt and pull it out without losing it.

I used a small screwdriver to pop the valve up and out. I pushed the valve and hose backwards. Then from under the car (with the car up on ramps), I was able to pull the hose down and swap the valves. I pushed it back up.

It was a little difficult to rotate it around to line it up. But, I succeeded.

I then used a small mirror and small screwdriver to move the valve into position and down into the hole.

I put the bolt back into the valve using the springy grabber thing. I then got the socket on the end of the long extensions and was able to lightly turn the bolt.

I think I had a LOT of luck that the threads lined up and I was able to thread it down without crossing the threads. But I did turn very slowly with light finger pressure to get it started.

We'll see if it allows my air oil separator to last longer. This is my second replacement.

A shop did it the first time.

By the way, elsewhere, on Pelican it says there are two of them. I could not find a second one.
Old 09-07-2013, 10:17 PM
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No expert but have replaced mine twice in 90k. That soon sound like either really bad luck or super excessive blow by/ crank case pressures from bad rings. Maybe a compression or leak down test would eliminate that. I would suspect you would be smoking quite bit if it were that bad even with a new AOS. Oh much easier to access with the axel out but I just got lucky on that one.
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2001 Boxster S w/tip
Old 09-08-2013, 05:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
Schnell Gelb
 
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This issue is covered including part number references to Pelican and part numbers here:
anyone ever replace the PCV valve? - 986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster Owners and Others
It would make a great DIY subject because it is soooo tedious.And if you drop the little bolt or cross-thread it !
I suggest replacing the original bolt with one that has a chamfered lead/nose and an internal hex drive so you can use a little weak adhesive or electrical tape.
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Last edited by Scnell Gelb; 11-08-2017 at 09:13 AM..
Old 11-08-2017, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne 962 View Post
It's pretty straightforward, but access is not that great. Just be sure you jack up the car enough, and use backup jack stands.

-Wayne
The AOS is one of the last of many things I'm doing to service my '01 Boxster base. I started poking around with the engine cover off yesterday afternoon. You say it's easier to change the AOS from beneath the car. Are you removing the transmission guard?

I have "normal" size arms but they aren't triple jointed. The biggest problem I'm having is squeezing the lower hose connector so that I can pull it free from the AOS.

Also, I've never seen any mention of trying to clean the flex hose between the AOS and throttle body? It seems to me this should be a priority if you are cleaning your throttle body, since that is the main path contaminates follow.

Thanks for all of the hard work putting together the book and How to Articles.

Jim
Old 11-22-2017, 06:53 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
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