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suspension

need some insight...just replaced the control arms in my 03, to include wishbone, trailing arm, and tracking arm (drop links also) went to alignment shop and he "tuned it in" camber -1.8 (-1.8degree--0.8 degree) and toe @0.71 degree (specs 0.00degree-0.17 degree). toe not good!!
all other specs fall into range. he suggests that since it will into come into range that my hub assembly is bad, out of wack, damaged, or has been damaged and needs to be replace (not in his line of work).
i did the control arm replacement and he confirms that i did not damage the parts and my install was fine. any thoughts on a toe in problem of this nature....could the control tower be adjusted for a toe in problem???
Old 04-26-2011, 06:34 PM
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ok, i see by the lack of response that there are no insights in to my problem. so let me re-direct the question.... can any part of the frame system be tweaked in order to give me a little more play in the body to arm area to effect the the toe adjustment? or does anyone make an adjustable arm
Old 04-30-2011, 01:56 PM
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Does this 'alignment shop' know porsche? There are toe adjustments, I'm really surprised it can't be brought into range.

Did you change parts due to accident?
Old 04-30-2011, 03:32 PM
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The shop does all the alignment work for the two porsche shops in my area... he says he can not get any more. it was 2.85 going into shop. his thought is that the carrier is damaged. i just bought car with 100k on it and the ride was rough, ball joints boots ripped, t-arms (tow) had bows in them as if they where bound down with a toe strap. i would think that with a downward bow the toe-in would have been better. not sure about accident.
Old 05-01-2011, 06:42 AM
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Hey Wayne, got yer PM's and figured I'd answer here...sorry, I've been out of it getting that white boxster all setup for a track event last week. *
**It is very possible that something more is tweaked. *It's pretty hard to visually spot unless it's those toe arms like yours were. *Your car did look like it might have had a bumpy ride at one point in it's life...but thats ok! I'm not too sure I'd keep throwing bigger and bigger hunks of aluminum at it yet.
*Most (and I do mean most) boxsters out there have to be aligned to some sort of agreement between the camber and toe links in the rear.
The camber effects the toe so drastically, and the ride height effects the camber so drastically. *Unless the car has new springs holding it at the factory ride height you should expect some rediculous toe in. *Not that you should accept that as "good enough" though. *When aligning boxsters in this spectrum I tend to set the worst side's toe to full negative...and the camber to full positive. *Then I slowly give it more neg. Camber until the toe comes into spec. *Normally this puts the camber on the edge of acceptable, but the toe is spot on and doesn't chew tires. *I match the better side to this, then do the front. *After getting the front where I want it I go back and see I I can get any more out of the back (usually not the case but it needs to be equalled again). *
**If your car has been lowered, it increases the camber which in turn increases the toe in. *In order to get acceptable toe levels you need to run nonideal camber settings, or aftermarket adjustable toe arms. *The aftermarket toe arms have turnbuckles to lenghten or shorten the whole arm.*
*If your rim and hub runout are ok (no wobble when spun in the air) I'd check your rideheight. If it's close and you don't wanna buy new struts and springs (who does?) I'd try and get it close as possible and see how even it is. *If both sides are equally out or close to it I'd be less concerned about something bent. If the carrier sections were loosened at one time (perhaps for body repair) they could have been shifted slightly in their mounting bores- but you don't get much adjustment here. As a worst case senario you could try loosening the carriers and shifting them with a prybar the diection you need more of and zapping em back down before you replace stuff. *
Otherwise, I've found the strut tops and struts usually bend before the knuckle or carrier. Is only 1 side way out? *I've had .1 degree more neg camber give .71 toe, if everything is even and you don't want to spend more money concider running agressive camber front and rear with factory toe settings. *I've found that my boxsters like an agressive camber setting with centered toe settings...they have high levels of grip and are still very predictable- with minimal tire wear. *I do have higher mileage stock suspensions that allows the bodies to roll into that camber a bit though. *Good luck!** *
Old 05-02-2011, 12:23 PM
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Sorry about the punctuation, not sure why my phone decided to throw all those *'s in there!
Old 05-02-2011, 12:25 PM
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