Oil Return Pump Seal

adbm3 · 11-14-2011, 09:44 AM

I couldn't find anything in a search so am asking.

Bank 1 Oil Return Pump Seal is leaking ever so slightly. I think the procedure is to drain engine oil and replace the seal without doing anything else special. But, would like to know if there are special procedures, size of the seal and whether I have to use new bolts, including torque value. Bentley has some info on it but not anything specific on new bolts. Thanks!

very~worn~944 · very~worn~944's Garage

Hello. Just some pointers, find the factory seal. You ask size, I just wanted to make sure you weren't planning on going to the hardware store to match the old. Also, the 4 bolts should be replaced every time. They are micro encapsulated with sealant, and will leak otherwise...you could try putting thread sealer on the old ones, but I am a fan of doing something once, right. On a plus side, save yourself some money and don't drain the oil. You should be perfectly fine without this step as the static level is below the pump. Clean the area BEFORE you remove the pump. Having a clean work area is important, and solvents can damage the new seal. When doing this, be careful of the other seals: the cup seal above the pump, and the football seal around the valve timing solenoid. These are super sensitive to solvent as well. Make ABSOLUTE certain that the pump goes back in the right orientation!!! Take a picture before removal- it can go in 180 out and not scavenge anything, filling the head with oil. As a cheating guide- the bank in which your working on should be closer to the center of the engine (the pump says 1-3 on one side and 4-6 on the other) the arrows are just there to confuse you...pay no attention. If truly lost, do the opposite of the other bank

. The seal will want to pop out of it's groove when sliding the pump in, and get pinched. Some use a dab of sealant or thick grease to hold it correctly in the pump. Don't put sealant on the whole thing, the factory oring was designed to seal without it and it may disturb this. The bolts should be torqued to 7.5ftlbs I believe, but good luck getting a torque wrench in there- snug but no pulling threads! It's lighter than you think. Last but not least- when all the bolts are out but it won't come out of the head you'll wish you also ordered two cam cover bolts. If you remove the cam cover bolts directly above and below the pump it makes the job sooo much easier and safer. The cover doesn't squeeze the pump in there. Just don't forget to put the new ones in at the end!!!

adbm3 · 11-14-2011, 02:50 PM

no, not planning on going to the hardware store. I buy my parts from Pelican but the description on which seal to use on the site is a bit confusing. Additionally, Pelican doesn't offer the bolts so would have to buy those elsewhere. I thought they would be special bolts but wanted to make sure.

Honestly, after your description of the process it would seem that the whole pump has to come out with the sealing plate. This doesn't sound like an "engine in" job as there is probably about an inch and a half clearance between the engine face and the back of the bulkhead. In that case, I'd rather let it leak (its just a moistening at best) or take it to someone much more educated in these matters than I who has the facilities to pull the engine out.

very~worn~944 · very~worn~944's Garage

I Just want to clarify...I assumed it's a boxster, a 986 no? If it's a 987 the bolts are slightly different and it seems to be a bit tighter. Bank 1 is the passenger side, and the pump is close to the rear carrier and crossmember- on the back of the engine. There is room to leave the engine in and the suspension alone- if it's a 986. It's tight, but not that hard if you pay attention. The whole pump does need to come out, but is not that large. It has a blade you need to line back up to reassemble. Here is waynes picture-

adbm3 · 11-15-2011, 09:48 AM

2000 S (986)
Sorry, its actually bank two I'm talking about on the DRIVER (USA) side. Also found the above pic in the 101 book. Given that the pump looks not very deep it might be possible to wedge it out of the front of the engine and have enough room from the bulkhead. I don't think I would need to set the camshafts with the locking tool either - that is reading between the lines in the 101 book.