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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Somerset, CA
Posts: 79
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Wayne, in figure 71 you state; "The yellow arrow shows how the set screw pushes against the sprocket surface and holds it in place. When you're rotating the engine, you want all three set screws to be pushing on the surface of the sprocket, not pushing through one of the open holes green arrow." Just to be clear, you will not actually be rotating the engine while the set screws are in place, Correct?
Best Regards, Z __________________ This post was auto-generated based upon a question asked on our tech article page here: Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Intermediate Shaft Bearing Replacement and Upgrade (IMS) - 986 Boxster (1997-04) - 987 Boxster (2005-06) |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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Correct. You want to rotate the engine so that you can line up the surfaces of the sprocket so that none of the holes are located where the set screws are to be located. Then, you tighten down the set screws to affix the intermediate shaft in place.
- Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 190
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I'm currently doing my IMS right now. When I set the crank to top dead center (TDC) I checked that the set screws will not go too far, I'm not sure if this was just luck but it is nice I can both lock the crank and the shaft easily . Now I have to find some set screws, I understand they aren't required since I released both tensioners and if I get the LN kit I think a left side exhaust cam lock comes with the kit. I'm in to overkill.
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Somerset, CA
Posts: 79
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I completed the LN IMS retro-fit yesterday. (The Sergeant Major said I could spend a few hours in the garage) I did so without the set screws having the engine and cam lock as provided by LN. I did as Wayne suggested though, marking the other cams with a sharpie as some additional insurance. No problems, smooth install. The sprocket did not line up anyway, only one hole had metal behind it. I understand the overkill mentality though. JFP and Cnavvaro suggested the set screws may be problematic as the sprocket is press fit and any pressure applied to the sprocket may cause it to cant, giving rise to premature wear of the sprocket or worse case scenario having the chain come off completely under load (6800rpm).
I think as long as you follow Waynes' advice and are careful not to torque the set screws too hard you should be fine. Insure you torque them evenly, if you decide to use them. I have 25 set screws on the way, if you feel you need a few let me know. Thanks to Wayne, JFP, cnavvaro and the other posters for their advice, even taking the time to clarify when my thick skull got in the way. Now on to the Flywheel and clutch. Best Regards, Z |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 190
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Z - you are a few days ahead of me. Congrats on a job well done. Ya I popped the left two green cam covers off and marked them, even took one of the right side off, hard to see in there but I did manage to mark that too. I'm just not going to kick myself later for not making sure after 360 degrees they return to the same place.
I really don't care what bearing I use, I don't drive the car enough to worry so if Wayne's comes out soon I'll probably use his. Was yours a single or double row? I notices on LN site that the puller for a double row was different. They make sure to spread the load out on the engine casing so as not to crack anything. Mine is double row. I want to lock the exhaust came before I pull the cover off and check it's condition...again being careful even though I have totally removed the chain tensioners left and right. I'll PM you about parts. Anyway good lock on the rest. My clutch kit comes in this week. I did the RMS tonight. Tomorrow I need to replace my leaky oil fill tube. Cheers. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Momence, IL 60954
Posts: 1,911
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Thankfully, the puller is the same for single or dual row. That would be a nightmare if we had two different pullers to sell with the confusion that would cause :-)
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Charles Navarro President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service http://www.LNengineering.com Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 190
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Charles...thanks! I could have swarn I was on a page at LN and it showed a different puller for a dual row...now I can't find that page! I must be losing it!
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 190
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Quote:
However in Red at the top is says not depicted in pictures below LOL...I can't see red well ![]() Update - ok I fully understand now...I was picture reading. Time to call an order. Last edited by WhipE350; 12-27-2011 at 11:51 AM.. |
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