are those 2 lifters stuck in their bores? those valves could be bent shut and weren't opening at all for some time.

actually my bearing idea removes the flex from the case as the shaft has no pivot point anymore and it doesn't use the bearing like a lever, like the orginal system setup.

Ideally the case needs 2 beefy pins around the ims hole, to keep the case halves from flexing independent of each other in that area.

More info
 

The evidence that points the lifter collapse to having been prior to the IMS failure is as follows:

1) NOTICEABLE dings in the pistons that hit valves...but NOTHING in the intake valves that have collapsed lifters.
2) The lifters have been curved out by the flat camshaft hitting them THOUSANDS of times before the the IMS failed and killed the motor. Think about it...they don't look like a cam banged against them 50 or so times before dying...it was a long gentle hammering process - NOT just a few hits that made dents - they are perfectly smooth and that kind of work took thousands of hits to get right.
3) They slide in and out of the lifter guide perfectly - Nothing stuck whatsoever.
4) I'm not the only one with this problem. Lots of collapsed lifters on Boxsters without being related to IMS bearings. Of course...
5) Trash in oil from the IMS failure may have plugged up the lifter feed lines assisting in their collapse.

Do you know if the engine have a consistant ticking sound?
Are you able to open the lifters up to see the springs inside if they are broken?
I have a complete set from a 98 2.5L, if they fit you are welcome to them <40,000mi.

Sorry Feelyx

I was away due to our montly event (Porsche Club Baleares) I will try to continue posting more info

Thanks ;)

Harrisracing,

I would also love to see the springs inside of these lifters, if you can post pictures and/or measure them I can compare it to pieces of very small spring I found in my oil and don't know where it came from.

Will do
 

I will get dimensions of the springs and such inside the damaged lifters.

Patrick

Dear board members

Don´t you think one row bearing system is weak than a double row bearing system

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342200211.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342200259.jpg


Why this change, I have a lot of pictures of single row damaged bearings and few of double row

What do you Think?

Quick bump... how goes progress?

Also, quick question on the externally oil-fed design... How well does this work on an IMS Bearing with just the outside-facing seal removed?

I just picked up a 2006 with 3.4 L engine and my only concern since the bearing isn't service-able , how could I keep it lubricated to prolong it's life, without blowing off the seal on the interior side?

Thanks...

Hi brando...SmileWavy
Everything is running great, I have had no problems with the bearing. I've put over 5k mi. on it and had just changed the oil, the microscope didn't show any heavy metals, I will send it to be tested soon.

The oiler set up will work with the standard setup. I drilled the IMS housing to except a 1/8" pipe fitting below the main shaft. I also silver soldered a 1.5mm jet at the end of fitting pointing towards the bearing. There is a pic somewhere in this thread. If you drill the oil galley, do not use steel tubing to the bearing housing as it will crack eventually with the standard setup..... Use 2mm id pfte high abrasive tubing.

The oil pressure will not blow the seal on the otherside out, the balls and cage break up the flow to the seal. I could not take out the seal with the 1.5mm jet at over 100psi anyways.

Just make sure your bearing is in very good condition, as no amount of oil will save a bad bearing. It must not wobble, or have any rough feeling when spinning.

There is a video of the stock bearing running with the oiler in this thread also...

Good luck and post some pics too....SmileWavy

Feelyx, Just looking back through all the posts and wondering if the bearing could be fed internally if the modifications were done at the time of a total rebuild. I realize your intent here is a simple retro fit solution, but looking at the pressure fed IMS tensioner nearby I thought there may be a way to tap its oil source internally. Where exactly does the IMS tensioner get its oil supply? Is it fed from the 4-6 head or the crank supply gallery, or? The Porsche oil schematics I've seen do not even show it at all.

Hi Visor.....SmileWavy
Did you locate where the spring piece came from?
The closest oil galley to the IMS is in this pic it actually feeds the tensioner. I would not recommend tapping into the tensioner galley itself as the hole is barely big enough to support the tensioner.
I am not sure if you would have enough room to locate a line internally, that would not interfere with moving parts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342985837.jpg

I can't say for certain I located where the spring pieces came from, but I did just remove the 1-3 tensioner and a bunch more pieces just like the ones I found in the solenoid finger screen above it fell out with the tensioner. I cut open the tensioner and then cut open the check valve inside, but there was no evidence of a small spring...just one more piece floating around inside. So either the check ball valve in this case does not have a helper spring, or it completely disintegrated which is a real possibility since all the pieces were quite smashed and mangled.

If the variocam plus engines flow oil to the 1-3 tensioner just like the older variocam engines, then this tensioner is fed directly from the same port in the head that feeds the timing solenoid/actuator. It would make sense that I found the same debris at this solenoid screen, except that to get there from the tensioner it would have to move against gravity and the oil flow direction. I guess if the tensioner check valve has failed then the chain could smack the tensioner piston hard enough to fully compress it, shooting a bunch of oil out the inlet port and up the gallery, especially if the vane cell adjuster was taking in a lot of oil at the same moment and the oil flow direction in the tensioner gallery reversed momentarily. It seems more likely that it came from somewhere before either of these devices, but if so where? Only thing I can think of would be the check valve for the piston oil squirters, but if that blew out I would think the main bearings nearby would be starved of pressure and I would have spun a bearing by now.

I also removed the IMS tensioner and didn't find anything and it seemed ok, but I replaced it anyways since I was that far into it. I am in the middle of putting everything back together now. So, do you know the oil flow routing that leads to the IMS tensioner?

Vizor,
Here is a spring out of one of my lifters, its .66mm/.026 wire, 5.50mm/.217 diameter, 7.46mm/.293 spring length. I was popping the balls out looking for a spring around the crank, but couldn't find any yet.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1343002908.jpg

Can't be that spring then. The debris I found is 0.16mm/.0065" wire...so much, much smaller. Obviously can't tell the original coil diameter or free length from the pieces.

The check ball spring inside the timing solenoid filter screen is 0.16mm/.0065" wire, 5mm/.197" diameter, 12mm/.472" length without about 5 active coils.

Popping what balls out, the piston oil squirter valves in the crank carrier? What do those valves look like?

I will get some pics up for you soon, including the tensioner oil galley.

Feelyx- Great stuff and nice work. Its an excellent solution to what I've been saying from the very beginning. Completely in your camp on this one. (Are you selling a kit?) The original design for a radial bearing load in that end without any pressure relief is going to have a shortend life span. IMHO Porsche straight out missed this. The bigger and ceramic type upgrade whatever replacements can get away with it, but just an engineering band-aid. Regardless of which theory and upgrade one does, at least for now they all seem to do the job, hopefully for a normal life expectancy of a vehicle. Cheers to you, Scott

Hi Scott...SmileWavy
Like I said many of times in this thread..... anytime you use a bearing as a lever it will fail, and that is what Porsche did in its design. The bearing just had to be flipped around and mounted in the case.

My bearing doesn't use the rubber seal, it uses a metal shield, to hold a small reservoir of oil in the bearing and any excess oil is pushed through the shield into the sump. This keeps 30% of the bearing wet at all times, as required by the bearing mfg-er. The housing I designed will let oil exit only, no "dirty" oil will enter the bearing from inside the case, + if one should experience a bearing failure the housing will catch the shaft from damaging any components and keep the debris inside the bearing housing. Also there were a couple more mods done for strength and ease of replacement.

As a side note, I will be switching to grease lubrication in about 15k miles. Just to see if the bearing can handle the switch over with no issues.

As for sale of the bearing.... I will not be selling any... It is almost through the patent process as of right now. There are ongoing negotiations with companies to purchase licenses to produce this product. Hopefully news in 6 to 8 months. ;) It was a bit overwelming to find out who is actually interested in producing it.

Onward...SmileWavy

IMS problem.... What YEARS are affected?
 

Quick question:

Thinking of buying a Cayman, possibly a Boxster.

IMS problem = What YEARS are affected?



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