Hydraulics leaking From Transmission

wad · 08-25-2013, 08:30 AM

Guys we have an issue with our MY99 Boxster, We were on a long highway drive and stopped to get gas, once we filled and started to drive away the clutch pedal got pretty soft then the pedal would not return fully and kind of got stuck half way on the return.

The clutch however was not slipping at all and was great, we limped home and decided to look in the morning. There was a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the car and after some sampling by smell it was definitely not motor oil but most likely brake/hydraulic fluid.

I put the car on the jack stands and got underneath to take a look at the secondary slave clutch cylinder. It is dry and no leaking around it.

When I got my wife to pump the clutch the leaking started to occur again and it was from the bell housing to engine connection area, in fact it was in one of the ports where you can see the flywheel teeth.

My question is can the slave clutch cylinder spray inside the transmission if its leaking and then have the fluid come out in this area or is it something else. This would seem the most logical but I would assume that I would see leaking at the slave cylinder on the outside?

Here is a picture of the leaking area and also the slave cylinder area.

wad · 08-26-2013, 10:24 AM

Well I ordered the Slave Cylinder, I hope thats it, can't really figure where else the fluid is coming form. This will also give me an opportunity to fix the the squeaking noise from the Slave to the clutch fork too. I will update once I get it installed and bled.

Anyone else have this type of leaking, I would assume its from the front of the Slave where the piston is sealed. Maybe the boot just finally ripped. It seems to be a weird spot especially since the outside of the slave is pretty much dry.

wad · 08-27-2013, 08:33 PM

well, I put a new slave in, pressured the system by pumping and all was good, able to get it into gear and all was good.

Let car down from Jack stands for test drive and pushed clutch pedal to floor and slave seals blew again.

If Wayne or someone could offer some kind of opinion here that would be great as I am at a loss.

I suspect either the clutch is toast and you have to push the fork so far for it to disengage the motor that it blows the Salve, or #2 the fork is bent or broken and its not engaging the clutch and the slave is over extending and blowing its seals.

Anyone??????

tomk · 08-28-2013, 04:26 AM

hi, i had exactly the same sequence and the issue turned out to be a broken fork.

of course, once the tranny is pulled tofix it then the question of what to replace "while you are there" syndrome starts I did clutch, rms, ims, fork, and some misc small stuff. I tested the flywheel and opted not to replace it, as it tested fine and the cost was almost $1000

good luck

wad · 08-28-2013, 06:15 AM

I guess I need to make a list of parts to replace.

It seems that the fork, clutch, ims, and rms are the prudent things to do. The IMS was worrying me anyhow.

I will also need to get a new slave cylinder!

Thanks for the response it was my suspicion, once I get it apart I will post a picture of the fork.

tomk · 08-28-2013, 02:41 PM

once the exhaust is out of the way the transaxle is very easy to remove. One of the bolts is one of those special triple point style, but the rest are very easy. The procedure for replacing the IMS bearing can seem quite daunting but if you follow the procedure given on this site then you should be fine. You will also need to purchase the special tool for extracting and reinserting the IMS as well as the holders for the cams. Remember to buy the replacement plugs for the ends of the camshafts. One last thing, the camshaft holding tool might require you to rotate the crank one more revolution to get the slot in the camshaft to align with the tool, the slot looks centered but it is slightly offset

wad · 09-09-2013, 07:21 PM

Started to take it apart, got as far as the muffler removal and the silly top bolt on the passenger side of the header muffler flange is spinning in its crappy welded on tab on the back of the manifold. Any tips on how to get a wrench on the nut so I can undo the bolt. It is just spinning in the holder on the manifold.

wad · 09-13-2013, 09:17 PM

Well here is a pic of what I am dealing with, any suggestions on how to get this bolt off. The nut is just spinning in the little welded on bent metal holder.

If I could lear out the holder I could get a wrench on the nut and use the impact. but I am having a terrible time grinding off the weld on the top of the flange.

tomk · 09-15-2013, 07:14 AM

there any number of ways to get past this problem, torch it, cut it off, vice grips etc.

no offense, but if your general wrenching chops cant get past this then you should hire the job done, there will be other things that will give more trouble than this, good luck

dad911 · 09-15-2013, 08:09 AM

I believe I cut the bolt with a hacksaw/sawzall and replaced it.

wad · 09-16-2013, 07:39 AM

Quote:

there any number of ways to get past this problem, torch it, cut it off, vice grips etc.

no offense, but if your general wrenching chops cant get past this then you should hire the job done, there will be other things that will give more trouble than this, good luck

No offence taken. I was just checking if there was some trick people have figured out.

I will be hitting it with the hacksaw when I get back to it on Thursday.

wad · 05-01-2014, 05:27 PM

Now that spring has sprung, I got back to taking it all apart. It was the clutch fork broken as I suspected.

Now on to the Clutch, its worn and needs replacing, down to the rivets on the pressure plate side but the Flywheel is in very good shape, no grooving just a bit of shine.

So new clutch and I guess maybe IMS and RMS.

Do these forks often fail on their own or is there some king of mechanical reason, obviously I will do a whole clutch kit with a new throw out bearing. So it will all be fresh and should last another 60k Miles.

Wayne are the lower cost IMS tool kits coming in soon? I went to place my order and I see they are out of stock and will ship in 2 weeks?

wad · 06-12-2014, 07:43 PM

I replaced the Clutch, Pressure plate, IMS(the Dual row I removed was in perfect condition), RMS and then reassembled everything back together according to specs and the car never has run smoother for 3 days.....

Then got up this morning and car turns over but will not fire!!!!

Jumpered the fuel pump relay and heard the Fuel Pump Pumping, still would not start.

Turns over though, I am leaning towards Crank position sensor, would this have anything to do with the work I did on the clutch? Maybe some errant grease coating it?

Any Ideas? I am at a loss.

JFP in PA · 06-13-2014, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wad

I replaced the Clutch, Pressure plate, IMS(the Dual row I removed was in perfect condition), RMS and then reassembled everything back together according to specs and the car never has run smoother for 3 days.....

Then got up this morning and car turns over but will not fire!!!!

Jumpered the fuel pump relay and heard the Fuel Pump Pumping, still would not start.

Turns over though, I am leaning towards Crank position sensor, would this have anything to do with the work I did on the clutch? Maybe some errant grease coating it?

Any Ideas? I am at a loss.

Check and make sure the clutch safety switch has not become disconnected, and check the fuel pressure (if the CPS fails, it shuts off the fuel pump).

wad · 06-13-2014, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Check and make sure the clutch safety switch has not become disconnected, and check the fuel pressure (if the CPS fails, it shuts off the fuel pump).

JFP it is turning over, wouldn't the clutch position switch stop the starter from engaging?

I will look as the clutch does return a bit faster now(New Pressure plate).

it has to be either spark or fuel but who knows!

JFP in PA · 06-13-2014, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wad

JFP it is turning over, wouldn't the clutch position switch stop the starter from engaging?

I will look as the clutch does return a bit faster now(New Pressure plate).

it has to be either spark or fuel but who knows!

If it is turning over, it is not the safety switches. Check the fuel pressure.

wad · 06-18-2014, 01:44 PM

Well, it was the Crank Position Sensor.

I replaced it, on my MY99 986 it was a 5MM hex bolt, the car started right up. One thing I did notice was that he CEL came on and the OBDII was showing misfire in cyl 1-3. Cleared it and then it came back, then drove it a bit and it cleared on its own, I assume the computer just needed to calibrate itself with the new CPS? Not showing any longer.

Now on to figuring out this Oxygen Sensor CEL that I have been chasing.

P1117