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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 4
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Pelican IMS Upgrade failing?
First let me say that I have no idea whats wrong, so please don't start doubting Pelican's IMS solution. OK with that out of the way
Three years ago with around 80,000 miles on the clock I replaced my IMS bearing with a Pelican upgraded bearing. The bearing I pulled out was perfect and the new one installed relatively easily. A few weeks ago(and 30,000 miles later) I started to get a rattle on start up (not a chain rattle), it also got a little reluctant to start requiring a few more spins. Now it has developed a throw out bearing-esk noise that started this morning and has very quickly developed into something down right scary. It's definitely a bearing of some sort that's failing. I'm not sure if I would have heard it but I don't have the insulation in my car so I can easily hear anything that is going on back there. You can also now hear it from outside the car. I'm getting it towed in tomorrow morning, what should I do once its there? Go ahead and replace it again? Or are there any tell tail signs that I can count on? |
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Air Medal or two
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: cross roads
Posts: 14,079
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noise the same with clutch pressed and out? (isolate it)
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D troop 3/5 Air Cav,( Bastard CAV) and 162 Assult Helicopter Co- (Vultures) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and all parts in between |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 4
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UPDATE: I popped off the serpentine belt this morning and low and behold the noise completely went away. So I apologize for questioning Pelican's engineering I'm certainly glad they offer their IMS bearing. I didn't have too miuch time to dig on the source of the noise but it seems to be ether the Alternator or the AC compressor. The AC this year has taken a significant amount more power to operate than before, so much so you have to make a conscience thought to use more revs when starting so that could be it. There is no noise change when the AC kicks on though. The clutch engagement also does not matter.
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Put the serpentine back and once running, listen to the different pieces that got a pulley on them with a stethoscope or a long screw driver resting against your ear. You should ID the one that is going South in no time.
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.
Posts: 20,982
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While the belt is off, turn the idlers by hand, should be nice and smooth. I had a bad one.
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 23
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Might want to update/Edit the topic name, its a bit alarming when you see the topic page.
Especially if you have ruled out he IMS bearing. |
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Air Medal or two
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: cross roads
Posts: 14,079
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Dumb Question -
Does the S model 3.4 share the same pronblem?
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D troop 3/5 Air Cav,( Bastard CAV) and 162 Assult Helicopter Co- (Vultures) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and all parts in between |
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Schnell Gelb
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Probably the idler/tension bearings.Cheap and easy to fix. Do the belt at the same time.Check that the pulleys are aligned if one edge of the belt is frayed.Look carefully.
Good time to consider an under-drive C/s pulley upgrade?
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2001 Boxster S Engineers muse |
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Schnell Gelb
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and while you are in there -check the wp bearing -potentially very expensive collateral damage if it strts wobbling/impeller blades break .....
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2001 Boxster S Engineers muse |
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