'02 Boxster Current distributor, electrical drain problem

[William A]

I am trying to solve a 200 milliamp drain on my daughter's '02 Boxster.

It started with intermittent overnight draining of the battery requiring a jump in the morning. It has since become more frequent.

It manifests itself in a 200milliamp drain. I have replaced the battery and alternator already, no change. I have pulled every fuse in the driver's footwell and every relay, not one affects the drain.

I then discovered the "current distributor" behind the passenger side of the dash, with fuses F1-F7. It appears when I pull F4 the drain disappears, but I have no schematics for what that fuse controls other than it seems the alarm and ignition are disabled when it is pulled.

I am a novice, and help getting this resolved is greatly appreciated.

I need to get her car reliable again so I can have some peace from the calls that she is stranded again!

Thanks in advance,
William

[JFP in PA]

F4 should be an 80A fuse and is the ignition lock circuit.

[mikefocke]

JFP Ignition switch not going into "off" mode? 80A is huge so is the starter in the circuit?

OP How long after you stop are you measuring the current draw?

A long ago post by Disraeli said:


The factory technical manual (Section 97-07 page 2) has the following table of total electrical load after the car has been shut off (ModelYear 02):

(electrical current is worst case, i.e. car loaded w/all options...)

FROM TO mA

0 min 5 min up to approx. 950

6 min 15 min up to approx. 900

16 min 20 min up to approx. 750

21 min 60 min up to approx. 50

61 min until the battery is empty up to approx. 30

1000mA equals, of course, one amp.

If the car had no options whatsoever, the load after 60 min would be 17mA instead of 30mA.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by mikefocke

JFP Ignition switch not going into "off" mode? 80A is huge so is the starter in the circuit?

Definitely, the starter and just about all of the rest of the "switched" circuits on the car, hence the high amperage. That circuit is the ignition switch, which is obviously well known for causing problems. As a replacement switch is less than $20, it may be time to change it out. You could also pull the switch loose so it is hanging, set the car up to read the drain, and unplug the switch; if it is bad, the drain should drop right off when you do.

[William A]

Originally Posted by mikefocke

JFP Ignition switch not going into "off" mode? 80A is huge so is the starter in the circuit?

OP How long after you stop are you measuring the current draw?

A long ago post by Disraeli said:...

...1000mA equals, of course, one amp.

If the car had no options whatsoever, the load after 60 min would be 17mA instead of 30mA.

Thanks Mike, the draw occurs instantly at shutoff.

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Definitely, the starter and just about all of the rest of the "switched" circuits on the car, hence the high amperage. That circuit is the ignition switch, which is obviously well known for causing problems. As a replacement switch is less than $20, it may be time to change it out. You could also pull the switch loose so it is hanging, set the car up to read the drain, and unplug the switch; if it is bad, the drain should drop right off when you do.

JFP, the ignition switch was replaced recently, and we did isolate the ignition switch knowing it is a problem area. The draw seems to be located elsewhere, and I am vexed as to where it is coming from.

I followed steps to isolate the alarm module under the seat as that seems also to run on that circuit and I am still coming up empty. I am trying to make sure I am doing it right as it is a multistep process.

All I know now is that when F4 is disconnected the draw disappears. So it seems something off that circuit is the problem.

Thanks all, any other ideas/advice are welcome.