Coolant leak, need help ID'ing possible sources
 

Had the check coolant twice, i added more 2 quarts, 100 km later, again.
Nothing major, no obvious gushier
but enough to be a problem and not keep driving.

Did not originally see a clear leak since there is an under tray and it's been wet around here..

But I just pulled the panel, and have a clear, steady leak on the drivers side of the engine, towards the front.. opposite side of te Water pump


https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5A1F5712

So that's defo not the water pump, as I can see it higher up then the pump itself goes

Could be even higher then this , but it's hard to tell.
https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ab&oe=5A1F5F0A

Can anybody tell me what that black plastic thing is?
It looks like it has a hose connectd to it
Seems to be water related.
Is it cold feed or hot return line?
Could it be cracked? Common failure?

Coolant Pipe Assembly 98710650804 - Genuine Porsche - 987-106-508-04 | Pelican Parts

Just had mine replaced. 3 hrs labor, plus coolant and 2 qts of oil. It is a common failure.

Sweet, i tried to get a clue on PET, but on the old air cooled cars or 944's PET was a lot more usefull then on these cramped machines.


Thanks Tony, that doesn't look to bad !

On further inspection, found coolant crud at the other side near the water pump.

Which, i think is better. Cause that coolant assembly pipe is a Royal pita to replace at home since it snakes around the engine mount.. Water pump replacement looks like a pieace of cake compared to that..

So pierburg pump and low temp thermostat inbound , and hopefully that does the trick

Whoever designed this coolant pipe, and how it's snaked in there..
If i ever meet you i'm kicking you in the nuts.


Top tip , start by removing ALL the under trays, not just the rear one.
More room to work and you don't get stuck on that Torx bolt holding the engine mount bracket to the engine.

failure to do so means a lot of time wasted.
A lot more then it takes to remove those undertrays with powered socket driver.

So was it the coolant pipe after all?

yeah, total pain in the ass to get to without a lift

Oh yeah, and to take it in or out
Ya gotta take out the oil pressure relieve valve bolt.
out comes the spring, out comes a quart of oil

https://pics.me.me/every-shop-has-th...am-2515108.png

Done.

So in case anybody else has this , this is the list of things to do


1 Jack the rear as high as you can, or put it on a lift if you aren't a masochist
2 get the rear and middle undertrays off
3 clamp the big hose to the coolant assembly off
4 remove that electrical connector off the firewall, the one under the coolant assembly
if you leave it in, you'll have a hard time getting the assembly out
5 put a jack under the engine to support it
6 remove the 4 m15 bolts that bolt the engine mount frame to the chassis
7 loosen the top 2 M15 bolts on the engine mount to engine frame
8 remove the 2 M15 lower bolts on the engine mount to engine frame
9 Remove the torx bolt just below the engine mount rubber that holds it to the engine.
10 engine mount can now be wiggled out.
11 undo the engine temp sensor connector
12 remove the coolant assembly torx screws (5 via belt cover 4 from below)
13 Loosen the oil pressure release bolt

NOTE, you will have oil come out of this one.
If you fully remove it, the spring and plunger will fall out, and MORE oil will come out of that one.
2 quarts can come out of this

So either let it drain if you were planning an oil change anyway or plug something in there and make sure the plunger does not fall out of it.
For instance have a matching cork ready to plug it.
It needs to be a cork that does not stick out or it will get in the way as well. ( but make sure it does not get stuck deep in the bore either)


14 Wiggle out the Coolant assembly pipe
The bolt from 13 has to be removed completely to get it in or out it's normal position

15 transplant the temp sensor (the new unit has one in it, but i wanted to keep that one as spare)

16 put back everything in reverse order

17 fill up the coolant & oil


I'll update and add some pics later, shower first, then a drive

Another top tip
When inserting the return hose in the coolant assembly pipe
When you put the retaining clip on , make sure it is in hte right groove.
The groove next to it will look like the clip is locked in place, but that won't hold the pipe in.

Furthermore, the hose won't come out initially, but hit 6K rpm and it will

Instant loss of all that expensive Porsche brand coolant.

any pics? Ordering the assembly now.

no room for decent pics in a DIY under the car job..the ones i made were just to dark of close in to make much sense

you'de need a bridge and distance from things to make those pics properly
But the steps provided should get you on the right track

right on.