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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 12
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New member to the Boxster club... 2002 "S"

I have been slowly restoring a 1987 Targa for the last few years. Just got a deal I couldn't say no too, picked up a 2002 Boxster S for thew price of the clutch that a transmission shop put in. The owner never paid him for it, so I paid the $2,500 shop bill and gave the owner $500 for the title so paid 3 grand for it.

I knew even parting it out I could get my money out of it, drove it home and although Boxsters did not impress me much when they came out, I have become a fan.

I live in KC and it has been way too cold to do much but I thought I would throw a couple of questions out. Have a pretty good oil leak that is dripping ONTO the exhaust pipes in front of the RR wheel. Haven't even had the chance to pull covers as I don't want to crack the plastic window.

Does the AOS leak externally when it fails ???

This car sat from May till Dec with an almost empty tank. We have a very humid year so i expect I have a ton of condensation, and haven't been able to change out all the filters yet. (It was -10 this morning) so still idling a bit rough. I want to get the Durametric reader, wondering if anyone in Kansas City has one so i can see how it works before investing in one.

Also, turned on the wipers and now they stay on, any body had this issue ? I intend to see if it still does it once it warms up of it its cold temp related. Any advice is always welcome.

Glad to be back in the Porsche mode. Makes me want to work on the 911 even more now.


Alan..............
Old 01-01-2018, 02:41 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sanford NC
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$2,500 sounds like a lot for a simple clutch replacement. Do you have the shop bill/receipt to see what parts were used?

The typical AOS failure is internal and results in the air intake fouling through to the throttle body. Now a hose could fail at the connection. And check oil level.
Old 01-01-2018, 04:30 PM
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Yes I got that as well, this is a shop we use for our work vans. The dual mass flywheel was bad (so they say, it’s not around anymore), so they replaced flywheel and all shift cables as well as the clutch itself. Now keep in mind also, this is NOT a specialty shop either. But I had no issues with the clutch or shifting on the way home. I am quite sure I need to drain the gas and flush the tank out some, it sat for 7 months with the tank on fumes so it had plenty of opportunity to make condensation.

It has a rough idle that clears with higher RPM, but I literallyput a fresh Batt in it and drove it home in time for bitter cold temps and didn’t get the garage cleaned out enough in time before to cold temps hit. So the poor thing is outside at the moment and I work in the weather so just not motivated enough to work on it in these temps. Also waiting for my Bentley manual and contemplating which brand of code readers I should invest in, so don’t even know which codes are tripping the CEL light.

But the body is in awesome shape,not a dent to be seen, no signs of accident history, top is in amazing condition, all in all I am quite happy so far. Been in contact with Flat 6 innovations and my plan is to keep an eye out for a good spare engine, put the IMS solution and a few other things on it and install it so the org (with 149k miles) can be sent off for one of their stage 2 or 3 rebuilds. Yes I know putting a 20k motor in a 3k car makes no sense for resale value. I regret every Porsche I have let go and frankly would rather let my son inherit it than sell it. So not looking at its value to others, just its value to me.
Old 01-02-2018, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefocke View Post
$2,500 sounds like a lot for a simple clutch replacement. Do you have the shop bill/receipt to see what parts were used?

The typical AOS failure is internal and results in the air intake fouling through to the throttle body. Now a hose could fail at the connection. And check oil level.
cool,
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Old 01-02-2018, 04:47 PM
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Durametric is the only viable option so get that coming. With the fuel level that low just go fill the tank with the best fuel that's close & drive it till engine is fully warmed up.
Old 01-06-2018, 11:21 AM
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Quick update...
Took the car to Aristocrat here in Kansas City. Ran the codes and told me I had mass airflow error messages (Did NOT tell me which code number) and told me that the valve cover gaskets are leaking.

Replaced MAF with one from Pelican, no change in running and CEL is still on. But with the engine cover off, I can hear a hissing sound, but with engine running, hard to locate. Picked up a can of starting fluid for old school leak testing. Tightened the hose clamps on the intake, all were loose and I did get some improvement by that.

Any real common vacuum leaks areas to start with ??

Would love to hear from anyone that has done a valve cover reseal while the engine is still in the car.

Thanks Alan...........
Old 05-25-2018, 06:44 AM
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Ronpor
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 4
I previously owned a much loved 1988 911 Turbo. At the time I was living in a hot humid climate. Knowing that cast iron metering unit was prone to rust from condensation accumulated in the fuel tank, I used to put about 2 teaspoons of methylated spirits in the tank about once a week.
Seemed to to solve the problem, especially if the car was laid up for weeks at a time.
Any thoughts ?
Old 05-26-2018, 09:20 PM
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