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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 6
2002 Boxster S - power windows are dead, driving me crazy

I'm a new guy here, just took the car home today. I bought it very, very cheap. It's in good condition appearance wise and runs really good, but it does have some issues. I'll probably start a new thread for each individual issue. Hopefully that's the way it's done here.. Again, I'm new so if I'm trampling any long standing forum rules or customs by doing that, please let me know.

That being said, the power windows are the biggest issue I am facing. I've searched, and seen many different threads on this, but there seems to be no real continuity in the problem, it seems to be all over the place. First the issue, then what I have tried. When I picked up the car, the drivers window was totally dead. No movement at all from door handle use, none with top use, and none with door switch use. The passenger door did nothing with top or switch use, but it did drop a tiny fraction of an inch when opening the door.

I checked the D1 and C3 fuses. Both check good and there is power at each respective fuse receptacle. I swapped in new fuses. No change. I held each switch button full up and foll down with the key on for 30 sec each. No change.

I later disconnected the battery for something else (leaking fuel sender unit, more on that in another thread), and after hooking it up again, the tiny bit of movement in the passenger door window when opening the passenger door was gone - totally dead now. HOWEVER, the driver door window very smartly dropped when opening the door and raised when closing it. The joy was short lived however when I turned off the key, turned it back on, and the drivers window was once again dead.

That's where I am now - two totally dead windows, with no clue whatsoever as to how to proceed. I would think that with the tiny movement of the left window at door opening (now gone) and the three time movement of the driver window (now also gone), there has to be power reaching both windows. Since both are dead, it seems unlikely that both regulators died at the same time.

Any ideas would be very much appreciated. By the way, it's very clean under the drivers seat, and no evidence whatsoever that the "immobilizer was ever wet. Also, for whatever it may or may not be worth, the interior lights are dead too.

Edit - After reading some more posts, I see one advice given is to check the window switches. How do you get them out? Also, do the power windows in my '02 S (986) have a relay? If so where is it located? How do I check that? Lastly, even with the windows full up as they are stuck now, the top will still raise and lower. I assume it's not supposed to do that? Is that a clue as well as to what might be wrong?

Last edited by Doug427; 02-07-2018 at 08:24 PM.. Reason: Added someting
Old 02-07-2018, 07:57 PM
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Check the window regulators. They are likely to be worn out. Mine were. Regulators are very cheap and if your windows are moving at all, this is going to be what you need to fix this problem.
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Brian Lamberts
Tucson AZ
Old 02-11-2018, 03:57 PM
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Lot of flooding in Houston during Harvey. Are you sure to car was not flooded? What you are describing doesn't resonate as a single or simple failure.
Old 02-11-2018, 04:00 PM
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I see no evidence at all of flooding. Everything else works fine. This power windows issue is baffling. I am just getting home later tonight and I have to really tear into the car to try to find the issue. If it's a mechanical thing like window switches, motors or regulators, I can fix that easily. If it's micro-switches, I have no idea how to troubleshoot that. If it's this so called immobilizer I think i'm hosed as I don't understand what that thing does at all and what systems its tied into. All I will be able to do is check the connection, and if that's good then I have to just send it out to be checked I guess.
Old 02-11-2018, 04:10 PM
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If I'm not mistaken, there should only be 4 main components to the window opperation.

1: The switch
2: The Regulator(which is purely a drive mechanism)
3. The motor
4: The door latch mechanism(This handles sending the signal for the window to drop when opening/closing the door)

Since the door dropped once on its own I would think the door latch mech is good. Since the windows will no operate via the switches and you've tested the fuses and relays I would think testing the motors would be the first step. Unless you have a wiring issue that is preventing power to getting to both motors. If it were a regulator the motor would try and turn when you hit the switch and you'd hear some kind of noise or it would move slowly.
Old 02-26-2018, 06:30 PM
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Just to close this out....

It turned out that the immobilizer had gotten wet due to clogged drains back by the convertible top wells. Cleaned out the drains, had the immobilizer board repaired, and all is well. Thanks for all the tips.
Old 03-03-2018, 06:46 PM
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Doug, were there any other items not working? I just bought a 2002 Boxster and having the same problem with the windows, but also with the radio and front and rear trunk switches. Glad you got yours sorted out.
Old 04-06-2018, 03:48 PM
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Greg, in my case the windows, remote locks on the keys, and the interior lights didn't work. I'm hoping that someone more knowledgeable than I am can chime in and let you know if the darned "immobilizer" controls the radio and trunk switches. Good place to start would be to remove the driver seat after disconnecting the battery, then unplug the immobilizer that sits in the well under the seat. Unplug it and open the back case, exposing the circuit board inside. Take a look at it and see if you see any evidence of water induced corrosion or damage. This is just a terribly designed and located system. It's completely water intolerant, and it's put into the lowest point in the floor, the exact spot that water would gather if and when it gets into the car. Brilliant. Anyway, take a look at it, and if it's damaged you'll have to have it redone. Some are successful in getting their insurance to pay for it as a water/flood damage claim. If not, there's a guy in Colorado who I used who did a great job and was very inexpensive. There's also a place in Florida who charges considerably more for the service of repairing the board. Choice three is having the dealer replace it. If you choose that routs, as always bring a BIG checkbook.
Old 04-06-2018, 04:03 PM
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