R56 Broken thermostat electrical connector - Replacement part FIX!
 

I've seen more than a few times where this issue has popped up so I wanted to share some part information with everyone. As you know, a lot of plastic components under the hood of MINI's can get brittle and break. Recently, I've seen more than a few individuals indicate that their R56 thermostat coolant temp sensor connector has broken, but there is no listed part number for that connector. From what I have found, the oil pressure connector is the SAME as the thermostat coolant temp sensor connector. The 2 pin plastic connector for the oil pressure connector is part number 12-52-7-542-850-BOE HERE, which is #13 on the image below:

http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nort...6011c8419b.png

This is what it looks like.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461705204.jpg

Along with that connector you will need 2 of these wires 61-13-0-005-199-M9 HERE. Image of one of them below. You will need to splice them into the wiring harness.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461705300.jpg

Hope this helps someone with this issue in the future. Let me know if you have any questions.

I wonder if the connector can be de-pinned (I see a retaining tab on the upper side of the pin in that photo) so that you don't have to cut and splice?

Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what the de-pinning tool would look like--but it might be as simple as a very thin flat blade...

--DD

I'm not sure, but I've seen a few with broken pins. If theirs are fine and the plastic connector is the only issue, it may be good to investigate if what you're saying is possible and then all they'd need is the connector.

To remove the terminals from the plastic connector, first remove the grey plastic piece from the connector. It unclips. Then on the terminal, use a small pin to press the retaining tab (red arrow) to release the terminals. Then I would butt connector and heat shrink the wires if replacing the terminals.\

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1474917759.jpg

update?
 

any update on weather you need to splice the 2 electrical wires? I broke the socket housing that connects to the VANOS Solenoid. i have the socket housing and bushing contact. just want to know weather i need to slice or crimp the bushing?

Hello - If the terminals are bad and you need to replace those along with the socket housing, you will need to cut in the new wires. Nick's recommendation above is:

You only need to cut in the new wires if your terminal ends are bad (you can butt connect them as Nick recommended or twist them together and solder them). If they aren't, you can just remove the old socket housing and put the new one over the wires. Follow Nick's directions above if you do not need to splice in new wires.

Hi

Replaced the socket housing but now getting a p0013 and p0016 code. Is that related to the wiring?

Yes, P0013 could be related to a wire issue for the VANOS. Go over your install and make sure that the connectors are not pushed into the housing too far. Make sure they're making a good connection and aren't sliding back and forth in the connector. I'd look over the wires/your install job and make sure everything is in working order. Fix anything that looks obvious and then clear the codes. See what comes back.

Will do. Just a quick question. To replace the plastic housing, I just pulled out the two bushing wires and inserted them both into the new housing. Is that the proper way to install ?

If the wires weren't damaged, then putting them into the new housing should have been fine. Did you remove the grey plastic piece from the connector and then put the new wires in and put the piece back on? Make sure the wires are in there nice and fit, you can see the retaining tab on them at Nick's post above. That should hold them into place in the connector.

Great! I took it to a mechanic because i felt it was over my head with the electrical aspects. Of course something else was wrong so i had them change the timing chain. around $1500 repair. Got a call now that the exhaust solenoid needs work. I just had it changed at the dealer a year ago. Do you think i'm getting error codes because of the wiring? Could it be a actuator?

Did you take it to a qualified MINI independent shop? What was the exact P code he told you it was? P0013?

P0013 0x2842 VANOS exhaust-side solenoid valve, control-activation Open circuit.

Have him check over the wiring to the VANOS to make sure nothing was damaged during the replacement. I have seen an individual report this code with issues with the wiring. This could or could not be your cause. What year R56 do you have? Cooper S or Cooper Base? Depending on your MINI info, if you have a R56 N12, N16 and N18, you can swap your intake with your exhaust solenoid to test to see if your exhaust one is bad. If not, you can also try and clean it. This article can help: MINI Cooper R56 VANOS Solenoid Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

my car is 2007 mini cooper. base model. Im guessing N12 engine. I asked them to check the code out but they just reported that the VANOS solenoid was bad. They said they would swap out but said they would charge. I was already on the hook for $1500 so i thought i could do that myself. IT just curious because when i started this process, there was nothing wrong with the exhuast vanos solenoid and now i change the plastic housing. now i need a whole new one? doesnt make sense to me

and yes p0013 is the code that was given and that my own personal reader has

Update: inspected the wiring. looks good to me, although i dont quite know what im looking for. No cuts or abrasions. I did have to pull rather hard to release the two wires from the housing. it may have stretched out a bit. i have wires going into the right slots but does it matter which way the bushing enter the housing? I still need to swap out the Vanos solenoids for further research.

Also: my wires dont have that black stopper. just 2 wires. does that make a difference?

I'm not sure if the stopper makes a difference, but it could help keep them in position. Go to this article: MINI Cooper R56 VANOS Solenoid Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article and leave a comment at the bottom. Nick will have additional input for you about the issue.

Hi, I just replaced both my oil pressure switch and Coolant temp sensor connectors using the above listed parts. Thanks for the information.

I would like to point a couple of areas where my experience differed:

1st: The 2 connectors are not exactly the same. The grey portion has a key which is visible in the photo below, and they are mirror images. You can shave the key off the plug with a razor to make it fit in the CTS, or re-use the grey part from your old plug (which is probably broken).
The grey part can be released by gently prying between the grey and black parts, I still ended up breaking one of the retaining legs...but it still works. (Also, the plug is shipped with the grey part halfway installed, don't push it all the way in until your wires are installed)
The black cover on the back is hinged, and released by poking the slots on the sides, while lifting up.

2nd: The wires listed are not the correct part, they are too small.
I suspect the correct part is 61-13-0-006-665-M9, but I don't know, I had to use my old wires.
RealOEM only tells you the right contact, but not the pigtail, and I don't know how to cross-reference them.

Correction to the above: Looking at my old parts I see the CTS plug has a green plastic tip...so they are color coded for the keyways. Looks like you can have green, gray, or blue. The connector should really come with all of them.

I replaced the the housing socket with a local dealer part (mine was p/n 12527542849). As "airheadearl" said, the plastic was keyed differently and I shaved off the key and it worked. I was able to reuse the existing wires.

What fooled me was how to properly seat the wire connector tabs. It was easy to feed the wires through the silicon watershield, but it didn't realize the bottom of the socket pulls gently apart lengthwise and then you put the wires in, and then slide (with a click sound) it back together.