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Matthieu (guest)
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2F22 and no heat

Hi there and many thanks for this great article !

My Mini fan is always running even when the car is cold. I have already changed the coolant temp sensor but the problem still remain. Today with a friend we were able to find a fault code 2F22 - Engine Temperature Signal not plausible however we have no clue what we are supposed to do. Should I change the whole thermostat ?
By the way, I am not able to see the water temp in the "hidden" menu ++++°C. But, we were driving for a test today and all of sudden the coolant temp appeared for a few moments and the fan stop running. Unfortunately, the coolant temp then went away and the fan started again.

Tanks for your help.

Kind regards from Switzerland.

Matthieu.

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This post was auto-generated based upon a question asked on our tech article page here: MINI Cooper R56 Coolant Temperature and Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
Old 02-13-2017, 11:58 AM
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Yes indeed change the thermostat.

- Casey
Old 02-13-2017, 11:58 AM
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What MINI do you have? When the thermostat leaks it can pool on top of the transmission. Check there. Are you losing coolant - i.e. have you checked your coolant level?

MINI Cooper R56 Turbocharged Engine Thermostat Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
Old 02-14-2017, 08:33 AM
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Hi there!

Thank you for your responses !

I first changed the whole thermostat and I thought it was ok but now the coolant temperature oscillates between 85C (185F) and 118C(244F) every 30 seconds.

By the way I have only for 10 seconds the heater in the car, when the coolant temperature climbs to 118C and the thermostat opens suddenly

Any suggestion ?

Thank you very much !

Matthieu
Old 03-02-2017, 10:54 PM
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What year is your R56? Cooper or Cooper S? So, you just replaced the thermostat and it is now jumping between 185F and 244F? Is it still throwing this code below?

P112B 0x2F22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Minimum Temperature Implausible

Are you sure you plugged in the connectors into the right ports? If you have the connectors plugged into the wrong ports, it will trigger a fault code. The tech article above can show you the correct location for each connector. Are you sure your coolant is at the correct level? Did you bleed the cooling system properly after replacing the thermostat? Make sure there is no air (trapped air) in the system. It not blowing heat sounds like you have air in the system.
Old 03-06-2017, 09:10 AM
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Sounds like there's an air pocket in the cooling system. Time to bleed it...

--DD
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Old 03-06-2017, 11:54 AM
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Hi, my Mini is a JCW R56 LCI, bought end of december 2010.

Finally found the problem. The water pump pipe was broken and there was a major leak, but not all the time !

I changed this pipe and now all seems to be ok ! However my temperature still remains at 108C (226-228F) and as a result, my fan is always running when the car is hot ! Even when I'm driving because the water temperature is upper than 105C-106C (221-222F).

Has anyone found a solution in order to fix this inaccurate thermostat ? It's a brand new genuine one...

Thank you very much
Old 03-09-2017, 01:29 AM
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Maybe is there a way to program or to flash the ECU to change the operating coolant temperature ?
Old 03-09-2017, 04:06 AM
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Ah, yes those water pump pipes are problem areas and we recommend replacing them when you're doing the thermostat or water pump as they tend to get brittle as they see multiple heat cycles and are made of plastic. It should read about 220F at operating temperature. No, you cannot change that as you do have a problem that is causing your MINI to operate at a high temperature. Is your heat still not blowing? Did you check the connections at the thermostat and bleed the system properly?

Where did you get the thermostat from, it could be possible that you received a faulty one. Make sure there are no more coolant leaks anywhere in the system. Here is how you can test the system for leaks: MINI Cooper R56 Cooling System Leak Test (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
Old 03-09-2017, 08:09 AM
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There isn't any leaks.

The system was bleed two times and it seems to be perfect ! I have a very good heat inside the car

The connection is OK

The last possibility is to change the thermostat, although I'm worrying to have a similar one. I will keep you in touch

Thanks
Old 03-09-2017, 10:18 AM
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The thermostat is not inaccurate; the car is supposed to run in the 105-110C range.

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Old 03-09-2017, 10:30 AM
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Now that the heat is blowing perfectly fine, it seems to me that you finally got the pocket of air out of the system. 220F (105C), as mentioned above, is a normal operating temperature for these MINI's. Are there any fault codes present in the system? Usually the fan will only run when the vehicle is stationary or at low speeds. You can check cooling fan operation by turning on your air-conditioning and listening for the fan to activate. Depending on your driving conditions and weather it does sound like things might be fine.

When the engine coolant temperature reaches 108 degrees Celsius (due to heat soak), the cooling fan will activate until the coolant temperature drops below 105 degrees Celsius. During this period, the fan has a maximum run time of 900 seconds (15 minutes) due to power management. There is a ton of information and how you can test the fan in this article here: MINI Cooper R56 Cooling Fan Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article.
Old 03-09-2017, 10:55 AM
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There isn't any fault codes in the system.

Now the outside temperature is between 0-5C (32-41F) in Switzerland. When I'm driving the coolant temp is always at 108C (226F). Sometimes it varies between 105C and 110C (221F-230F) but most of time it's always at 108C (226F).

When I'm on a stationary position, the temp is also at 108C. So the fan can run as much as it wants, but the temperature will remain at 108C because the termostat is miscallibrated in my opinion and the temperature will never get down until I shut down the engine.

I found this explanation. What do you think about ? I think I'm having exactly this problem.

Quote:
RobboMCS on the NAM site posted a really comprehensive explanation for this stage 2 fan effect:

I finally connected my car up to a scanner.

Basically 226 F is the operating temp and fan stays on 30seconds after shutoff as well.

Normal?
Depends!!

To understand what is going on here, you have to understand that there is a temperature sensor that tells the ecu what the temperature is, and a mechanical thermostat that opens at a certain temperature and regulates water flow and therefore the temperature.

What is supposed to happen is that the mechanical thermostat is set to 105C (221). When the car is moving with good radiator flow the temp should stay at roughly 105. Once the temperature goes > 106 (223) the electric fan cuts in. This usually because the car is stationary, with no airflow.

The problem is that the mechanical thermostats seems to be a little inaccurate and out of sync. There are a whole lot of thermostats that seem to run at 107-108C (224-227F). What happens in this instance is the thermostat doesn't open water flow properly until it reaches its temp, so driving around the temp will be 107-108C. This confuses the ecu, as the temperature sensor reads >106, so it activates the fan.

It is also possible to have the reverse problem, ie an accurate thermostat but a miscallibrated temperature sensor which reads the water temp higher than it actually is, which can produce exactly the same problem.

If this is happening, the fan is not just running when you stop the car, but nearly all the time, even driving around. When you stop it will run until the temp drops to the 106C number.

So if you are lucky and have a "normal" thermostat that runs around 104-105C you won't get the fan operating when you stop very often. If you have one of the thermostats that runs at 106-108C you will get it a lot.

Does this matter? Not really from an engine point of view. However, it must be increasing the risk of fan failure in the long run.

Also, just out of interest, there are actually 2 thermostats operating in 2 stages. The main one runs as described above. There is a second one set to 85C (185F). When the ecu detects high turbo load from aggressive driving etc it opens the second stage, and the temps drop down significantly.

Robbo
Old 03-09-2017, 01:35 PM
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Seems like interesting information. As far as I can tell, your MINI seems to be operating as it should, but if you feel that the thermostat you received is allowing your fan to constantly run (by the way it is normal for the fan to run after shut off for a certain amount of time) I would contact where you got it from and see if they will send you a warranty replacement.
Old 03-13-2017, 09:47 AM
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BMW Mini

Hi...


According to German outlet Handelsblatt, BMW is considering moving planned production of an electric version of its MINI compact car to Germany from Britain in response …

Last edited by Luccia at Pelican Parts; 12-29-2017 at 12:44 PM..
Old 03-15-2017, 03:59 AM
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Cooling fan stays running.

Thanks for a great forum, I have read this thread and the 2 tech articles on coolant sensors and fan replacement many times this last week. Ours is a UK 2010 R56 LCI 1600 petrol non turbo and last week the fan stayed on for 5 minutes after stopping the engine. Thereafter it came on within seconds of engine start and stayed on regardless of engine temp. This and other fora convinced me it was the coolant sensor which for this model is molded into the thermostat housing and there is a single 4 wire connector, 2 for the sensor, 2 for the electronic thermostat. I got the new piece from BMW and an adapter cable to fit between the wiring 4 pin plug and the new 2 plugs on the housing. Cost 116 not too steep as it came with a new temp sensor fitted. The Real OEM parts list for my chassis shows a note against the replacement housing; PUMA 6000 5320. Thinking it might have some deep meaning, I persuaded my BMW dealer to print a copy, fortunately it merely stated the replacement had the earlier removable sensor and needed the 2 into 1 cable. So new unit fitted and coolant bled I was V upset when the fan came on with a cold engine and stayed on. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/confused.gif
Back to the internet... somewhere it stated the fan had some intelligent controls in the motor so I removed mine to have a look. On my non turbo model it was easy to lift upwards and out after removing the torx bolts and header tank, so no need to jack the car. My fan has only 2 wires, no resistor pack and only 1 relay in the engine fuse box. I carefully dis-assembled the motor and found it to be a simple permanent magnet unit with 4 brushes in pairs with heavy copper resistors between and a single suppressor between live and earth, nothing that might respond to modulated CAN BUS stuff, so all carefully refitted. Finally my new OBD II trouble code reader arrived and bingo 3 codes plus fortunately their descriptions: 2F22 engine temperature plausibility, 2EE8 electrical fan activation power stage 1, 2F1A coolant sensor temp signal. After a bit more reading I pressed erase and was delighted when the fan stopped and the codes no longed could be found. A BMW Technician friend explained that some safety critical trouble codes result in the fan adopting an emergency mode and that it should clear itself when the cause is rectified and after several activation cycles. He also said that disconnecting the battery for a few hours will often do the trick as well. Sorry this is a bit long winded but I owe this forum some pay back and the whole story may save somebody a bit of stress. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif
Old 12-15-2017, 10:58 AM
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