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rodoredas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Melb, Aus.
Posts: 305
oil pressure - sporto in hot weather

Had my first long drive up the Hume Hwy last weekend (Melbourne to Mt Hotham) and took some snaps of the Oil Level, and Pressure guages on the way. The weather was warm, about 29, and when i had to slow down to pass through a town or stop at intersection the green oil pressure light would come on. It would not come on if I kept the revs up while changing down from 4th to 3rd etc. On the way home conditions where quite mild and I had different pressure and temperature readings.
the pix of of the guages are on the way up, temp between 9 and 10 o'clock, pressure just over 2 at 3000 rpm/100kmh 4th gear. On the way home I had temp at 8 o'clock and pressure on 4 at 3000rpm 100km/h 4th gear. I'm using Mobil S.

I understand that High temp, low pressure can cause the green oil pressure light to come on when idling (stopped at intersection, changing down gears) - is the normal sporto behaviour.

BTW - great run up the mountain in the cool evening air, recommend Harrietville to Hotham any time. Anyone doing the 3 day Great Alpine Road Rallye late december out of Dinner Plain, I can't make it, but will in Harrietville during that time.
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Shane
1975 911 Sporto 9115100500
more fun than heel 'n toe, drive a sporto
mid9 #53
Old 12-04-2006, 08:18 PM
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Bird. It's the word...
 
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Location: Brisbane, Queensland: Australia
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Looks very normal to me Shane... There is no question that a sporto will heat up engine oil a little more than a manual (especially on big long mountain climbs) as they share the same oil

I certainly miss that part of Victoria - I used to live work and play in the East Gippsland region (my folks still live in Mallacoota). I used to spend most winters at Hotham
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John Forcier
69 911S/T (interpretation)
2.7 RS powered, and 915 boxed "Bastard"
Restoration of my 69 911
My car proudly fuelled by Early-S-Man's advice - RIP Warren

Last edited by Fishcop; 12-05-2006 at 03:25 AM..
Old 12-05-2006, 03:22 AM
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what weight oil are you using? i wouldnt ignore this, low oil pressure means low oil pressure. you should be using a minimum of a 20/50w in your car. we have seen too many 'early' 911s(944,928 etc) absolutly crap themselves because of the low viscosity oils. its just not worth the risk. the oil you mention seems to be the most common oil for problems. back in the day scudaria veloce use to use a castrol 20/50 which use to make the oil lights come on. they then switched to a product call valvoline turbo V or now it is known as gp50. no more problems. we have been using this oil for over 12 years with great success. porsche now use mobil oil because it is FREE, thats right, Mobil give porsche FREE oil. in a world now run by accountants you can see where this now leads. some more advice is to stay away from so called Synthetic or semi syn oils, as much as they would lead you to believe its not all made in a test tube, 99% of it is pure mineral oil. the rest is additives. they like to call this hydrocracking. again, its an accountant thing. pure synthetic oil is only used in such applications as earth moving wheelbearing, and it costs in the vicinty of $800 per litre. we have witnessed a major increase in wear, both top end and bottem end, in the cars we know have been using syn oils. not to mention more oil leaks, caused by thinner oils and noisier engines, also caused by thinner oils. thats enough for now.
sean buchanan
Old 12-05-2006, 03:47 AM
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I'd be interested to hear comments on the oil temperature. Is that normal? My '81 turbo has never been that hot, even after some time on the track. The most movement I ever get is a couple of millimeters over the white line when I'm stuck in traffic.
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Old 12-05-2006, 01:41 PM
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Just a big kid really...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
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I concur with changing your oil choice. There are a number of oils out there which will aid in solving this problem. We use Shell Helix Plus in the workshop as we do look after a fair few "older" cars. This works well across the board.

Also, there are secrets to driving sportos - which I think you may already know . The higher the gear you use, the more the torque converter churns the engine oil and therefore the higher the temperature. Use a lower gear whenever possible and don't be afraid to drive it like a manual rather than leave it in a higher gear all the time.

Other improvements for sportos - an 11 blade alternator fan (not easy to find at the moment and not cheap but worth it). Other improvements are more expensive - external oil cooling for one.

I think most of your problems can be solved by changing the engine oil you are using and using a lower gear. Also, make sure your distributor points are not closing up and the ignition timing is right as this affects the running temp as well, which of course will affect the oil pressure. And make sure the CO mixtures are not too lean - this is one thing a lot of people forget.

Cheers,

Lisa
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Old 12-05-2006, 01:43 PM
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thanks all, I am using Mobil Synth S 10W40, and I am aware that sportos run the oil a bit hotter, therefore (maybe) reduced pressure, I do have an 11 blade fan and drive it just like a manual (bung hip). I had just not seen the green oil pressure light come on before. It only came on for an instant while the revs were low when coming to a stop, as long as i kept the revs up in say 2nd and 1st it was OK.
I'm told I should have pressure at 3 when I have revs at 3000 (4 and 4000) in 4th moroing along the highway.
cheers
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Shane
1975 911 Sporto 9115100500
more fun than heel 'n toe, drive a sporto
mid9 #53
Old 12-05-2006, 09:08 PM
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I certainly won't argue with the pros... and I totally agree about the higher viscosity oils - but my car looked like that at those revs and ran fine for 5 years before I swapped for the 2.7RS and 915.

Have you got a front oil cooler/satisfied it's working properly?
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John Forcier
69 911S/T (interpretation)
2.7 RS powered, and 915 boxed "Bastard"
Restoration of my 69 911
My car proudly fuelled by Early-S-Man's advice - RIP Warren
Old 12-06-2006, 03:14 AM
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Just a big kid really...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
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John,

I had a sporto for a few years and mine too ran fine with those figures when driven hard or in hot weather; but I did have a serpentine front cooler, 11 blade fan, no air-cond etc. We even had the torque converter stall 'adjusted up' so I could actually get off the line pretty quick for standing start competition (ta Daddy!). Holding her at nearly 4000rpm to "dump" the clutch whilst keeping an eye on the rapidly climbing oil temp was interesting!

I was more concerned with the oil light coming on at return to idle, but I would be interested to hear more about the circumstances; for if the revs drop too quickly and too far it may not be oil temp/pressure related at all which is a good thing, not bad.

Cheers,

Lisa
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www.spyderautomobiles.com.au
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Old 12-06-2006, 04:34 AM
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Lisa,

Sounds like we had a similar set up. My 2.0 had the 11 blade and high stall torque converter (I think it was your Pa's mod - car is an ex Melbourne jalopy, and I believe serviced by your dad in years gone by). I didn't have the front cooler as it was never a problem (even in Townsville's summers). Then I dropped the 2.7 RS spec engine in....
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John Forcier
69 911S/T (interpretation)
2.7 RS powered, and 915 boxed "Bastard"
Restoration of my 69 911
My car proudly fuelled by Early-S-Man's advice - RIP Warren
Old 12-07-2006, 01:06 AM
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My concern too was the Oil light (green) coming on when I returned to idle, I had seen this once before in the past 2 years on a very hot day while stuck in traffic, since then I have avoided those conditions. This was my first really long trip and I kept constant eye on the guages. Not until I slowed after 3 hours of highway driving did the light come and it did so only while the engine was at idle, say at an intersection. As soon as I got going again and kept the revs up it went out. The conditions for the remainder of the trip where mild and even though I drove hard up the mountain to Mt Hotham all was good. The trip home was no problem with much lower outside and oil temp.
I do not have the front coolers. Lisa, maybe I'll come down to your shop in the next few weeks for a visit and chat.
cheers
shane
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Shane
1975 911 Sporto 9115100500
more fun than heel 'n toe, drive a sporto
mid9 #53
Old 12-07-2006, 11:55 AM
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Just a big kid really...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Shane,

Sounds like you keep a good watchful eye and know what is going on with your car.

You're more than welcome to come in for a chat as I may be able to think of a few more hints and tips at least for you; depending upon what you already know, which I reckon is plenty anyway!

Please give Mike or I a call first though so we can stop what we're up to and have a chat: 9532 0246.

Cheers,

Lisa
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www.spyderautomobiles.com.au
blog: http://spyderauto.net
Old 12-07-2006, 12:10 PM
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Lisa,

thanks, shall call later this week

cheers
shane
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Shane
1975 911 Sporto 9115100500
more fun than heel 'n toe, drive a sporto
mid9 #53
Old 12-10-2006, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JET951
what weight oil are you using? i wouldnt ignore this, low oil pressure means low oil pressure. you should be using a minimum of a 20/50w in your car. we have seen too many 'early' 911s(944,928 etc) absolutly crap themselves because of the low viscosity oils. its just not worth the risk. the oil you mention seems to be the most common oil for problems. back in the day scudaria veloce use to use a castrol 20/50 which use to make the oil lights come on. they then switched to a product call valvoline turbo V or now it is known as gp50. no more problems. we have been using this oil for over 12 years with great success. porsche now use mobil oil because it is FREE, thats right, Mobil give porsche FREE oil. in a world now run by accountants you can see where this now leads. some more advice is to stay away from so called Synthetic or semi syn oils, as much as they would lead you to believe its not all made in a test tube, 99% of it is pure mineral oil. the rest is additives. they like to call this hydrocracking. again, its an accountant thing. pure synthetic oil is only used in such applications as earth moving wheelbearing, and it costs in the vicinty of $800 per litre. we have witnessed a major increase in wear, both top end and bottem end, in the cars we know have been using syn oils. not to mention more oil leaks, caused by thinner oils and noisier engines, also caused by thinner oils. thats enough for now.
sean buchanan
Sean, thanks for posting this and welcome to the board! Always great to have experienced technicians posting.

Not sure if you've had a read of this, but it's certainly worth a close read for someone in your position:

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motor-oil-bible.pdf

I live about 500m away from your shop... drive a silver VW R32... I'll give you a wave if I see you
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Last edited by Langers; 12-23-2006 at 09:19 PM..
Old 12-23-2006, 09:16 PM
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Old 12-23-2006, 09:16 PM
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