Absolutely agree!

Did you measure the distance between the screws on the ceiling boards?
Perfectly laid out.

Marv, :D

Thanks, astrochex and Skillet83, very much appreciated

911 Rod, screws hole centres were modelled on CAD, CNC precision drilled and laser scanned to check position ;) joking!

Mid-week update....

Not Stonehenge in my garage but Mrs Ahab sorting through some chunky stones, sizes range from 10"/250mm to 16"/400mm tall, saved the best stone for last and after a little trimming/cleaning these will be used to finish off the hallway opening

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1636579745.jpg

Very much work in progress but more 'ye old oak fakery'. I'm trying to create the illusion of a 16th century 'cruck' oak roof truss to make the new build top floor feel like it's actually part of the original old house.

I'm using 2-3" thick slices of reclaimed oak from what must have been a large and very old roof truss. All bought as a $40 Ebay bargain :cool:

Both timbers were a lot longer than required so the horizontal timber is just an offcut from one.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1636579942.jpg

I really enjoy searching, finding and re-purposing old bits of architectural salvage and try my best not to over egg our period correct pudding by using too much of it or in too many places

Boring update....

3 days of chopping using my trusty 9" grinder with the diamond blade, horrible dusty work but thankfully no legs were hurt :)

All this stone is just for the hallway opening through the external wall of the old part of the house :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1638317559.jpg

Good news, all 15 windows arrived, I've started painting them and then it will be onto a bit of 'hot rodding' of the frames to make them look a closer match to the existing windows :cool:

In other news I've got a thread related dilemma which I'm struggling with :confused:

I either tuff it out, working in the cold, full time on my man cave through the winter :( or accept a warm, WFH desk job work offer which only leaves weekends/evenings for man cave stuff :(

More man cave progress would be great but more $'s and ticking a hyper car off my to do list would also be great

1st world problem but I'm at a loss of what to do :confused:

Looks great, Captain. Whatever you decide, I’m sure it will work out great.

I would take the job.

Your updates are never boring Captain.

Based on your summary description of your options, I would lean to the hypercar option. Warmth, $, and checking off a bucket list item is a nice trifecta. Good luck on whatever you decide.

:D when there was snow on the ground I was 100% going for the desk job but today was much warmer so I was dead set on carrying on with my building fun

If it was the summer it would be no contest, man cave all the way :cool:

Need to decide this week so lets see what the weather brings ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1638319137.jpg

Rain, sun, cold, warm, dry, wet, how am I meant to make a decision with such unsettled weather :(

Warm? I don’t see anything even remotely close to warm in those numbers.

At 25°, you’re on your way there but I’d need to see at least 30 to feel all warm and fuzzy.

As a faithful reader of this amazing post, I vote you take the car job.

The house will still be there for you.

Besides, I don't want this thread to end too soon ;)

Best,

T9

You are so used to doing manual work that your body may have trouble adjusting to an office job. Having said that you get to work on your house evenings and weekends.

Probably it all comes down to money and health. What does Mrs. A think? In the end of course it is your decision.

Won't this kind of interrupt our updates on your project?
Think about your audience!
;)

He could give us updates on his other job. Those are equally interesting.

^^^^^^^^^^^^

What Javadog saidhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Nice on the dual walls for sound insulating purposes.

The foam board is much more efficient than the more common mineral wool or fiberglass insulation. I would have thought that mineral wool would better attenuate sound, but I'm not certain on that. Around here, the only foamboard insulation that the big box stores have is 1". I can't even order thicker from HD or Lowes. I think I'd have to go to specialty building place, and presumably, the cost would be considerable.
Do you need quoins or some other reinforcement for the vertical portions of the opening that you've created to help support the lintels or is the wall adequate?

Usually, when trying to build a sound wall, you first decouple the studs from the rest of the structure with some sort of a foam. I think fiberglass will generally outperform mineral wool and foam for sound transmission, check out the different densities available and look at their sound transmission coefficients. I’d probably loosely hang a thick sheet of mass loaded vinyl on the inside of the wall facing the noise source. If I were nuts, I might hang a thin sheet of lead, instead. I would seal the edges and any cracks, gaps or holes with a flexible butyl sealant. And, since density is your friend, I’d hang two sheets of the thickest sheet rock available on both sides of the wall.

I'd use resilient channel to decouple sheet rock from framing. But I think the Cap'n has already framed a double wall that isolates one side of that wall from the other. So resilient channel might be overkill. Some Green Glue on the stud faces wouldn't hurt though. I'm sure there's a similar product in the UK.

The acoustic pros I listen to don’t tend to think that the green glue does anything useful…

Captian...Take (try) the job...you can allways quit...chances not taken...

Your house has been there for hundreds of years already, what’s a few more? Take the hyper car off the list, hope it’s with Gordon Murray:eek: