Likely a minority here, but I've been using a Poulan Pro (about $150) during and since Sandy. If I had to cut down 12"+ trees for a living I'd opt for something better, but it was used to clear 40ish down trees from sandy, and quite a bit of cleanup since. Also agree with Rod, if you're doing cleanup, electric is certainly handy. Sometimes I'll grab the battery powered sawzall with an aggressive blade for limbing, if it's more convenient.

I've also been lazy about sharpening. Used to do it, but when you can buy a 2 pack for $25, I figure my time is worth more.

I have a couple Stihl chainsaws that have had nothing but avgas since new.
No alcohol, stays stable pretty much indefinitely.
Sometimes run them dry, often just shut them off when done cutting, they never fail to start quickly.

I sharpen chains with a Dremel and various sized stones. Don't think I've ever used a file.
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https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Diamond-Chainsaw-Sharpener/dp/B000P8VTNY

I have: Can you recommend a brand?

I feel like an idiot. I have one of those and never thought about using it for those tasks. That will change. Cousins marrying.

I also have the kits that set the angle every stroke depending on the chain. I can sharpen a 20" chain in ten minutes, including set-up and take down.

I used to sharpen my chains....when I was clueless....now I just keep my chains razor sharp ;). I hit them with a hand file just a few strokes freehand on just about every tank of gas....that's the key...never let 'em get un-sharp. But by hand, the teeth eventually get caddywhompus on one side (longer)....no bueno, or I hit a nail or something. Hard to correct by hand...

I picked up a mid-range Oregon chain grinder from Northern Tool a few months back....wish I'd done it decades ago :).

there was this old guy near my home that would charge me $5 to sharpen my chains. i would bring him three at a time.

man, he got them VERY sharp. he retired, and i moved. but like i said, i dont even have trees anymore. :) i get by with a cheapass japanese tree trimming hand saw.

I sharpen chains on the bar.
Oh, and another thing, reverse the bar at some time. Flip the bar over if the cuts are migrating to one side or the other.

I have alot of 2 stokes and repair neighbors stuff all the time. I dont get much if any gummed up ones. I think the oil in the gas helps immensely in preserving it. Usually its the fuel lines that get hard and break or the diaphram gets hard. Sometimes the carbs get clogged but there is evidence of dirt not the usual gunk you get in 4 stroke bowls. Plus they have plastic tanks that dont breath as much so you dont get as much condensation. I run 87 mixed around 20 :1 in all my stuff but nothing sits for very long. When it does I find the gas evaporates off and i end up with half oil and a smoke show. I know some people put some atf in their 4 strokes to help out and Im sure it doesnt hurt. Iv never been a fan of stabil or other preservatives. It seems engines that have had it always run like **** and you need to clean out the fuel system anyway. Atleast when they have sat a few years. I sharpen my chains with a dremel while on the saw it goes quick. Usually every tank. I have a tecomec easy grinder i never use if anyone wants to buy it.

The gas is never an issue for me, but if I don’t empty the bar oil, that crap gets everywhere!

Fuel stations at local airports are behind the Homeland Security fences and require ID to get in. Used to be that maybe 3-4 gas Unocal stations in the entire L.A. County served up 100 octane unleaded with no additives. They apparently stopped.

Here's list of discontinued and a few active stations but it's not real current by the dates:
Unleaded Race/Racing Fuel at the Pump in California

White gas was banned in CA 6 years ago but it would work in most low compression engines (2 cycle being one). When I first started racing karts in 1959 I would use white gas and synthetic oil. After a race weekend I could open up the motor and wipe the top of the piston with a handkerchief and barely soil it.

I don’t grind my own chains anymore, but I used to. I cut chains for a guy who was a competitive log cutter. I cut the drags down depending on the kind of wood they were using. You could cut them down to nothing on soft pine, but get them too low if they were using hard wood and a good saw motor would pull the chain apart. Our motor guy was amazing. We had a lot of fun learning to strike the right balance between motor speed, torque, and chain aggressiveness. It was different for every log.

Two light strokes with the correct file on each tooth, each time I fuel up. You don't need to get stuck into them with a grinder. You're only trying to take microns off.

....until the teeth get out of whack....it happens ;). I'm extremely conservative with the grinder....only the minimal amount to get all the teeth on both sides exactly the same...makes it easy.

If you're like me...an equal number of light strokes on both sides....well, they get dfferent.

I'd never let someone else grind my chains....

Do you clean the oil off the chain before sharpening it?

It most definitely is. You want 100LL (the blue stuff). Some airports have self-serve pumps too which is preferable to having a line guy come over and try to fill a few jerry cans out of the fuel truck. :)

It most definitely is. You want 100LL (the blue stuff). Some airports have self-serve pumps too which is preferable to having a line guy come over and try to fill a few jerry cans out of the fuel truck. :)

I'm not sure about access (as mentioned above). I was always airside when using them but if you know someone with an aircraft they can probably get a few cans filled for you.

I don't.
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Agree...a light touch with a Dremel tool and the correct size stone.
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Stones:
https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Diamond-Chainsaw-Sharpener/dp/B000P8VTNY
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Keep an eye on the rakers as they'll begin to sit too high. I just touch them slightly with the Dremel stone to knock them down a bit...every couple of sharpenings. I rarely use a gauge for that. You get a feel after a while.

Thanks for making me LOL ;). Naw....90% of my sharpening is done by hand on my F150 tailgate...no electricity around either.

Just put a mo-better bar/chain on my 13' Stihl pole saw...it'll be mo-beastlier now :)

Poolan Ed, Poolan....used to love those commercials...or was it Polan? I dunno...

I pull up a stool to my workbench, and turn on a directional light. I use my $30 HF electric chain sharpener at a 25 degree angle, and inspect each link for shiney/sharpness/uniformity before going to the next link. I have 5 chains that I rotate on my 20" Stihl MS310 for all my home heating needs. It takes some time 10-15 minutes per chain, but tired of dropping off chains one day, and picking up the next day for $5-$6 each. These sharpenings were also way too aggressive, which was wearing out chains prematurely, and causing me to buy more $30 chains from the same guy....so I cut out the middle man.

I use a file and do the equal number of strokes each way too. I use it camping and sharpen it every time I go before I start cutting:

Do the teeth remain even over time? Most folks (myself included), tend to be heavy handed on one side using the equal strokes method...if the teeth remain even over time, great, if not then unequal strokes ;).

Only buy Stihl, never "sharpen" a chain unless you are a professional lumber jack (put on a new chain and don't do dumb stuff during use), use stabil in regular pump gas (maybe 89 octane but I think Stihl says regular 87 is fine), and simply run the gas out at the end of a season when the tool is in regular use. I take my various Stihl's in to the dealer once ever 4 or so years and they do a tune up (a few simple parts) for a reasonable charge. They start without fail every year for the past 10. My Ariens snow blower get similar treatment and always starts first pull.

Oh, good point. I'll stop sharpening this very moment.
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Good point on "...don't do dumb stuff...".
Some scary homeowners out there.

when i was interviewing bamboo removal landscapers. a few guys told me they use carbide chains and do a fair amount of cutting into the ground. i cant imagine even a carbide chain lasting that long with that practice.

anyone ever use a carbide chain?

♪♪ Unchain my heart ♪♪

They say they are good for rescue stuff, like cutting through roofs.

The small Husqvarna saw I bought at the local big box store a couple years ago states in the owners manual to always completely loosen the bar before long time storage. I guess that's for the bearing in the nose of the bar?

I have an old 032AV Stihl passed down from my father. It’s 30 or so years old. He used it regularly and gave it to me a few years ago. I put good 2 stroke oil in it mixed with high octane (no corn) gasoline. I use it to cut a few cords of wood a year. I store it with a full tank of gas. I like to start it every six months or so just to get it lubricated.
I also sharpen the chain myself after every tank of gas using a dremel sharpening attachment.

All my Stihls require 89 or risk the powerhead...and you're an idiot ;)

I've been doing dumb stuff for decades with a chainsaw. I might even hit a nail or barbwire my great- grandfather nailed in a tree 80 years ago....schit happens :).

No one here even carries them....or uses. Can't sharpen without special wheels, etc. and they will get dull...eventually.

I bet they "slice nice" though :)

That and likely every link in the chain.

I'll be honest....I don't usually do that...only if I run it hard and tighten the chain during the cutting session. Newer chains don't seem to loosen as much...

Here's why....if your chain is at the right tension, there is no stress, on anything...links, bar, sprockets. Tighten the chain during long, hard use, put her away that way, and the chain cools & contracts....YMMV

KC, I take my time will sitting down with the saw in my lap doing one side the flipping the saw and doing the other, the teeth have remained even.

I just keep 'em even....different strokes ;).

...that's what matters...not how ya get there imo. I've got a 20"chain, practically new that I just can't get right....can't make a straight cut through a whopper tree...looks like a curved bow....stump chain now.

Speaking of chain sharpening. I find alot of my customers dont address the depth rakers. On my own saws i usually grind them right down but they really need to be maintained as much as the teeth or you wont get a good bite

Yes, use non-ethanol gas. This is important.

For longer term storage, pour the gas out of the saw and back into the gas can. Run the saw until it dies. Or just turn it upside down and run until it dies. Hang it on a hook in the shed.

May I just put it on a shelf?

I have tried sharpening chains, now just too lazy and it never made any difference.


still cant get it started.
it started cold yesterday and ran for about 30 seconds then stopped. could not get it going again.
pulled carb again and cleaned it just to make sure.
has spark
has compression although it feels weird. when it wants to start I can feel it building comp every rotation, then most of the time its like it builds it 2 or 3 times.
the saw is not that old. maybe 2 years

If you haven’t, check the primer bulb. They can get small cracks and won’t hold suction at high revs.

I keep a bunch on hand..

^^^
Now that's a great tip. Have had a couple split open on me.
Have a new one sitting in here in a junk bowl on the kitchen table.
Also, today's gas eats up the tubing.
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Oh, and another...have some new tank filters on hand.