Metal shearing questions
 

I had this piece of stainless etched for a project I'm doing. I think it's 20 gauge, but not sure. The guy who did the etching also etched the rectangular lines around the letters, which show where the piece needs to be trimmed. His first try cutting it in his shear ruined the proof of concept piece, so he told me he couldn't cut it with his old shear. Today I took it to a local Metal Supermarket, but they wouldn't touch it with their shear either. They didn't know who to send me to, and I didn't want to just drive around from shop to shop.

So my questions: Is this a hard cut to do for some reason? Is there not enough meat outside the lines, or some other thing that makes it tricky? The cut needs to be precise, and needs to be very clean. Should it be cut with a water jet or laser? I'm sure somebody here knows, with all the artisans on this board.

Appreciate any help.

Oops--forgot the pictures. Cutlines shown in the top one. Also, I don't need the part being cut away to be intact.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1535177844.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1535177844.JPG

That would not be hard to cut if it were 20 gauge, but it looks thicker than that in the pictures to me. Measure the thickness and let us know what it is.

Agreed - looks thicker than 20 gauge. once you know the thickness, then you can find the right shear ( got to be able to shear stainless) and set the blade gap for the thickness.

can't cut it with shears, find a lazer or nitrogen plasma cutter Or water jet. Can't find any of those use a metal circular saw with proper blade.

yes. Water jet or laser. Many plasma cutters leave a nasty edge.

Gardico in ballard has a water jet. Ballard sheetmetal may do it, but most shears clamp before cutting, which may mess up the surface.

I'm surprised that your chem-etch person didn't cut it to your spec.

Asko is up in your neck of the woods. They're a chem etcher I've used.

If I need to cut that perimeter with precision I would use a mill.

Thanks all--I have some calls to make next week. I knew you guys would know what to do.

I think there is a waterjet place on the magnolia side as well, commodore way.

They may be afraid the clamping process will mar the finish. It probably will.

The risk of blemishing the finish is high no matter how its done. The laser will leave a burr. You might get marks from the hold down from the shear. Water jet might be the best option.

The other thought is to protect the surface finish before doing anything.

Do you have scrap for a test? Clamp it between two pieces of 3/4 plywood. Then cut on a table saw and/or chop saw, with a blade like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Metal-Cutting-Circular-10-inch-4935561/dp/B0030XMFIO

I cut out stainless range hood inserts, thinner, but easy.

Very cool project, by the way. Please post finished pics.

That piece is not going to be challenging (to hold on to) for any successful shop.

People who fabricate custom stuff for a living know how to protect surfaces while holding for machining.

cutting stainless with a bladed shear will dull the shear. We no longer shear stainless in our shop for this reason. Find a laser or water jet.