lawn tractor blowing fuse

[flipper35]

So, I have a 2007 Cub Cadet LT1050 and it has been blowing the fuse lately.

It has only blown the fuse when I am mowing, but I mostly mow with it. Monday I was hauling the trailer with tree trimmings on it most of the afternoon and then started mowing. I was one round in when the fuse blew. Seems to always blow on an incline if that matters. Also, once it blows ,even if I let it sit, and replace the fuse it will blow as soon as I turn the key on. The next day with a new fuse it may run fine for a while.

Things I have noticed:
1: For a while the backup safety has not worked. I used to have to put the key in the yellow arc and push a button so the deck clutch would stay engaged. If not, as soon as I go to reverse the deck would shut off. Now, the deck stays running no matter the key position.

2: I had to clean the terminals for the starter relay because they were corroded bad enough it had a hard time getting a good enough connection to turn the motor over consistently. Thought it was a bad battery at first. Had no issues with the fuse prior to cleaning these.

3: I have noticed this year it has surged at idle a few times I have had it out, but it was inconsistent. I use straight gas, no ethanol blend.

The drive belt, deck belt and fuel filter were replaced a couple years ago. It has 300ish hours on it. Has gator brand blades replaced back then as well. Oil change and grease every spring even though the hours don't require it that often, it is easier.

I am thinking it is either the backup safety relay getting hot and shorting or the stator for charging gets hot under load mowing and shorts. I ordered a circuit breaker to use for testing and will be here Friday.

So, does anyone know the wiring on these to check for shorts the next time it blows the breaker?

The only electric parts I know of are possible a fuel cutoff solenoid, voltage regulator, charging stator, deck clutch (i doubt it can be this if the deck is off and it still blows when I turn the key on), the lights (which the local Cub guy said it could be but did not find any issues but is a known problem), and the backup safety relay.

Am I missing anything?

The ignition switch:

[LEAKYSEALS951]

It's 1. or 2.


2. is easy enough to recheck. undo what you did and make sure something isn't touching somewhere it shouldn't be. Starter relay itself needs to be looked at.

1. needs to be gone through to see why the safety has shorted. Once you figure it out, deactivate the reverse cutoff on your own terms. That feature is a pia.

google- 2007 Cub Cadet LT1050 disable reverse cut off

Whichever of these two issues occurred closer to when the fuse started blowing is where I would look first.

edit- that switch also looks like a piece of junk. I would look at that too if 1 and 2 dont check out.

[flipper35]

It is the main fuse, I think the only fuse on this one.

When I cleaned the terminals there isn't much to mess up. The wires there can't reach anywhere other than the terminals and they are properly covered again. I suppose the starter relay could short also with the bumps in the yard.

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Just to share- I had a recent similar problem with one of my mowers. It would get hot and run intermittently, and then cut off.

I noticed the emergency cutoff switch had shorted to the "on" position so it did not work. I figured "cool"- I never liked that switch anyway, and as long as the engine was running, why should I care? I could still cut it off with the ignition, so I let it be. Then it hit me it was the problem. So I disconnected that, and it ran like a champ.

Basically the switch had broken, but when hot, could still short and cut the ignition regardless of whether the switch was on or off. - this seems similar to your deck reverse cutoff going kaput and working "better" since you don;t have to mess with it.

good luck

[flipper35]

I need to find a wiring diagram so I can pull that relay out and still have the deck run.

I can unplug the seat switch to that cuts the engine easily, but all that switch does is close the circuit to ground and is basically a short when activated.

[Por_sha911]

Years ago we had a car that would intermittantly start running rough and overheating. Had all kinds of emissions parts checked. Turned out to be a loose wire in a harness. Hitting a bump or turning the car would cause the wire to move just enough to have a bad connection. I know nothing about mowers but I would check all your wires, connections and grounds possible. Maybe a wire is leaning against a hot manifold and the insulation is melted enough that it is shorting out?
Just wild guesses.

[Seahawk]

There is a lot of data on your Cub - nice piece of gear, btw: https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/lt1050-13aq11cp709-13aq11cp712-13aq11cp710-13ap11cp710-13ap11cp709-cub-cadet-lawn-tractor-2007-before/command-engine-ignition-electrical/

Nearly all the electrical problems I have with my MF 2300C are ground related.

Good luck!

[flipper35]

Thanks guys. That makes the electrical look not too bad.

Paul, it was one that has a decent cutting width for our 1.33 acres and would still fit between the trees and fence.

The Gator cutting blades are awesome by the way. Someone on Pelican mentioned them on another thread some time ago.

[oldE]

I would look for a place where a wire loom can brush against metal when the tractor is on the sort of incline you mention.
Look for worn through insulation.
Best
Les

[flipper35]

OK. Last night I looked everything over and didn't see anything obvious but I will pull it apart on the weekend to check all the nooks and crannies.

I did start it up last night. Got 10 feet and the fuse blew. I switched it off, unplugged everything and would plug one thing in at a time and power up to see if one of them would blow the fuse. Well, I either moved the wires enough they are away from the short or the harness itself had some corrosion that got cleaned up when I was unplugging and plugging. I mowed for a couple hours with it.

The inconsistency is what makes me think it is a wire and not the stator. Could be the reverse safety relay and I haven't found how to bypass that yet. I also thought it could have been bad connections creating a load to blow the fuse.

Les, there is one area where the wire goes close to a self tapping screw that is very sharp, but the insulation and conduit is good there but it made me think I should tie it up so it deosn't rub and become an issue.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Por_sha911

Years ago we had a car that would intermittantly start running rough and overheating. Had all kinds of emissions parts checked. Turned out to be a loose wire in a harness. Hitting a bump or turning the car would cause the wire to move just enough to have a bad connection. I know nothing about mowers but I would check all your wires, connections and grounds possible. Maybe a wire is leaning against a hot manifold and the insulation is melted enough that it is shorting out?
Just wild guesses.

Guy I knew bought a C4 Corvette, the first year out and the thing would die at random. He finally convinced the dealer to take it back as a lemon and got a new one, same year, different color.

Why the dealer told him IDK, but after they took it back they found a screw holding the windshield visor to the frame had just barely punctured a wire up there in the frame. So I guess every time he put the top down or used the visor, it would quit right then and there.

[flipper35]

Well, since I took it all apart to trouble shoot the issue we have mowed a few times with no issue. Go figure.

[flipper35]

I took it apart further and found a hot wire across the starter gear. Re-routed and all is fine again.

[Geoz1]

If you need any parts for a LT1050, I have one with a blown engine. Some parts have already been sold. I'm 10 minutes from O'Hare. Send a PM.

[john70t]

Everything not tied down and/or routed correctly...will eventually bounce around...to rub through or kink or break.
Good catch.

[flipper35]

Yup. It was hard to see where it rubbed through the insulation, but being that close to the starter gear made me take a close look.

It is both routed properly and tied down better now. I know they are cheaply built now, but expected a little better than that. Surprised it took 10 years to wear after seeing it, but it has only 354 hours.

[oldE]

Glad you found and eliminated the problem.

Best
Les