Replacing Windows in a Brick House
 

I have a house, made of brick (roman brick?), which has original 1953 single-paned windows. Very few of them can be opened for ventilation. I would like to replace them. I have measured them, but my inclination is to have a professional do the work, including the measuring and ordering. I suspect that custom-sized windows much be used, rather than off-the-shelf windows. Correct? I also suspect that windows can be fabricated which are a more subdued color compared to most brilliant white vinyl windows. If so, this would work better for aesthetics.

School me on brick house window replacement.

Definitely have the windows measured professionally. Most suppliers will measure for you. I have installed a lot of replacement windows but always have them measured by the supplier. Level of difficulty depends on what type of window is there now. A picture of what you're replacing might help in getting good advice on how to proceed.

You can replace the entire window, casing and all down to the framing, or you can put in inserts. I went with inserts, which made the windows about 2” smaller. The cost was about half due to the ease of the install. Definitely have a pro do the measuring.

Let the window company or installer measure because it’s their dime if the windows show up and don’t fit properly. If you measure “wrong” it’s your fault and your dime to get a new window made.

I got mid-level vinyl windows and chose a medium tan because I thought it looked good with the brick outside. I regret it everyday when I see my medium tan windows inside and they don’t match with anything.

Don’t count out Black as an exterior window color. Looks great with almost all brick.

Access Windows & Glass used to rent space from me in Puyallup.
They've grown, and moved to a bigger space near McChord AFB.

Good guys. About half of their business is doing exactly what you want.


https://www.accesswindowsandglass.com/

Olympia number: 360- 464-9898

What Cogar said. I would install a window if my client bought it. No way, because I am responsible. Wood windows are nice and are pretty much period correct if that important? Fiberglass or alum. clad windows are really nice and they would be my first choice. Plenty of colors to choose from. Fiberglass can be painted to the color of your choice. Custom size for sure

Go with a known company.We went with Andersen.A 1953 era house would need lead paint to be addressed.The installer will fit the windows to the opening properly. Lots of choices as to the finish of the frames. Big investment,have it done properly.

I did my own. No big deal, my dealer told me how to measure and the window fit perfectly.

For a forum full of 'car guys' I don't know why so many people would shy away from a window.

Exactly.

We replaced the wood framed windows in our mostly brick home with upper tier vinyl windows (double pane, etc.) eight years ago. Best thing we ever did. The farmhouse is close to the water and the wind blows constantly. Energy savings alone made us giggle.

They will take care of everything, lust to dust...install of nearly 35 windows took them a day.

Ours are white, btw.

Replaced all the windows and doors in our ca. 1910 Tudor style home during a full gut reno. Supplier did all measurements. They were custom made to order according to the measurements. Wood frames with aluminum cladding on the exterior. The cladding is available in a number of colors, we chose 'commercial brown' which matches quite seamlessly with the 'tudor brown' trim around much of the house.

We went with Lepage brand and they are very nice.

in the process of replacing mine now, also brick.
I let them come measure just because it is their dime if it is wrong although I did measure for the 2 in the garage and just went to home depot to get them. (inserts). its not hard.
he measured my 32x36 windows small, at about 31.626 and 35.625. this made it so the very edge of the new window was right AT the edge of the old frame. I would have liked a little tighter fit.

my problem is the old frames are in bad shape. paint needs to be removed/scraped. where I have scraped looks like crap so I have stopped and may just pay someone to paint.

taking old ones out is about a 10min job.
remove the inside trim around the window. don't break it.
raise the bottom sash to the middle and lower the top down to the middle. then just pry the aluminum frame out. mine where just stapled in. once the staples are out just pull the window in.

clean up around the old frame.

oh, pressure wash the out side really good first.

put a bead of caulk around the old frame and then install new window. do a dry fit first.
get some spray foam and fill gaps. caulk again inside and out

anyone have better ideas for scraping old paint off.

I just replaced all my brick framed windows and it was no big deal. Just to be sure, I bought one replacement window for a window on the side of the house and practiced. I ordered the window about 1/8 to 1/4" smaller than the brick opening and it went in just fine. The replacement vinyl window was about an inch deeper than the aluminum one it replaced so after removing the aluminum one (break glass and collapse frame), I cut the window frame sheet rock back an inch for the new vinyl window to sit flush with the inner edge of the brick. I put a few screws around the window frame into the wood frame, added spray foam for large air gaps, then caulked between the window and brick and window and sheetrock. Except for my crappy caulk job, it worked fine.

Then I ordered new Atrium vinyl windows from McCoy's, a local builder supply, for the rest of brick framed windows. As luck would have it, they arrived about 2 weeks after I broke my neck in August so I had a contractor install them so I wouldn't have to wait until the end of November. They all fit just fine.

My contractor charged $200 per window to install which I thought was high, but I knew the guy so I figured the cost was worth it for piece of mind. My next door neighbor paid a window installer $75 per window to install windows my neighbor had purchased himself, unfortunately his contractor wasn't available when I needed my windows installed.

Just did this. I really wanted fiberglass but my wallet said vinyl. Got a nice Milgard product. They look great.

Even with replacing windows in a 1991 house I am with Paul, the energy savings made me giggle. That, along with not getting snow drifts on the floor by our N facing windows. We went with Andersen vinyl-clad dual-pane and are happy. Color is Terratone, sort of a bronze/brown, it works well with our red brick up front.

You are probably looking full custom, which is much more expensive. Another option if your windows are close to a stock size is to go slightly smaller and then build out or replace the casing trim and framing to fit the stock size window. If you DIY, it would save you some money. Also, most window companies will come and measure for you, even if you plan to DIY the install.

A lot of members here remember that I sold and installed windows as a business up until the Great Recession killed it. I have installed some windows this year, but not like I used to, like a several hundred per year as a lone wolf installer.

Measuring is not tough. The real trick is to criss cross the opening you intend to leave in place to determine if it's a true 90º rectangle. After that, deduct what the factory recommends.

Some window companies have a line of stock sizes intended for new installations. Most vinyl windows are built to order at no additional cost because, 1) there are so many options that having all of those in JUST ONE SIZE on the shelf would take up a LOT of space, and 2) the factory is gonna build a certain number of windows every shift no matter where they are going. 3 to you, 10 to the next guy and so on.

Retrofitting is encouraged over ripping out the entire existing jamb and that's because the jamb is flashed behind the brick to keep moisture out. Don't break that seal unless it's broken.

If you go to my local distributor's site (1stwindows.com), you can glean a hell of a lot of info for free and not even have to sign up. How to measure, install, the whole ball of wax. He is set up to mostly sell to DIYer's and smaller contractors.

Funny, but hot links seem to be disabled.

Zeke gave me words of wisdom years ago, windows, maybe, exterior sliding glass doors, don't do it yourself.

Doors of all kinds are a different animal. I used to charge $125 per window for measuring, complete installation with trim and haul away. At the same time I charged $500 per slider and $350 for a single swinging door. At lot can go wrong or just get missed on doors. I can pick out a flaw on just about every door install I run into.

It never fails. Windows by and large are a POC. I could do 6 a day working alone. That's when I could afford Porsches. ;)

Custom windows makers can make them look anyway you want. When I was at COMNAVAIRPAC in the early 1990's the Admiral's conference room which had 4 large windows in it. They had been covered from the inside with metal sheeting to block out radiation during "secret" briefings and had not been opened in 40 years! They had pretty much rotted the wood away AND to make matters worse the building is a federal historic landmark (Naval aviation started there you see). So the designer called in a San Diego company that specials with windows like we needed. It took 2 months to get them made and from the outside they looked exactly like old wooden windows. On the inside they had a set of folding metal "shades" that blocked any listening by spies! If I remember correctly they were $3500 apiece in 1992 dollars.

I have a lot of "secret" briefings, so I'll check into that.

I really appreciate everyone's input. I also appreciate the work of carpenters enough to use them. Zeke.

Even Superman has to know his limitations.

I have a question. It seems I may have two choices:

1) Install the windows into the wood wrapping atop the studs. Maybe this could allow for standard sized windows... or
2) Tear all that stuff out and attach the windows to the studs. This would require custom windows.

If I have this right, then which is best. I assume....attach the windows to the studs.

I think I have other decisions to make too. Premium wood windows. Wal-Mart windows. Something in between.

I'm going to connect with the folks Dan suggests, and also visit some websites. With all the available time on my hands. <rolleyes> Is anybody else's life jam-packed like mine?