hahaha. Forgot to write that but I know you will understand. I have had good results without it on the hinge side because I discovered that none of the pre-hung door has it and they seem to work fine in my rentals. Too coat of paint will screw that up:mad: real fast.

This is what happened. Besides the garage door and glass slider in the back, there is only one door to my house. The tongue thingie would not retract. Broken. I made the door an offer it could not refuse. Broke the actual door jamb off. This weekend's surgery was to replace that strip of door jamb, including holes for the regular tongue and the deadbolt tongue. The door did not have mortising to allow the door hardware plates to sit flush, so I fixed that.

I made it as far as getting the new door jamb in place and another hardwood strip at a location where there had been drywall behind the trim, which will help it be more secure. Used four 2" screws to attach the deadbolt striker plate. I think the weak point now is the door itself, which is wood with metal on both sides. I think this door will never be forced open again.

Yes, I used a small hammer. The chisel method works fine.

^^^^This makes me feel better as I thought stuff like this only happened to me.

Follow-up question. The beveled-tongue thingie which works with the regular door handle (not the deadbolt) has two parts. I have never understood why this is a two-part thingie. Perhaps someone can explain. The main question I have, however, relates to whether both of these parts must fit into the hole in the door jamb or, alternatively, whether only the larger part enters the hole.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1543849394.jpg

That's a confusing question but it's your lack of understanding the names of the parts. No problem, I'll answer only how it's done and if that answers your question, good.

The latch face plate is mortised into the edge of the door. Sometimes the latch ass'y comes with 2 plates, a square corner and a round corner to be used when a router and a template is used to cut the mortise. No squaring off the corners.

The purpose of the plate is to hold the latch pawl secure and guide it as it is depressed and extended. Without the plate there would be no place for the door edge screws and the latch mechanism would be pushing and pulling against the spindle shaft likely ending up loosening the rose plate screws over time.

The rose is the round plate that the knob goes through on both sides.

I think what Sup is asking is if the part shown ('bolt'?) goes into the jam as shown.

I have the same or very similar latch on my door. I tried to push just the smaller piece with my thumb nail, as if it were the jam plate and the small piece won't move independently of the larger 'bolt'. They both go into the jam plate as one.

Hope this helps.

It's for security.
The latch bolt is angled and it can be opened with a credit card/knife/slim jim/screwdriver/etc.
But the small dead latch plunger can't be hacked as easily.

https://www.doorware.com/specials/help-center/faqs-door-locks.cfm
Q. What is a dead locking latch bolt?
A. A higher security latch bolt incorporating a plunger that is held in a retracted position when the door is closed, preventing it from being slipped open (by a credit card). Usually on keyed levers and knobs.

[QUOTE=Superman;10270924]Follow-up question. The beveled-tongue thingie which works with the regular door handle (not the deadbolt) has two parts. I have never understood why this is a two-part thingie. Perhaps someone can explain. The main question I have, however, relates to whether both of these parts must fit into the hole in the door jamb or, alternatively, whether only the larger part enters the hole.

Go to about 1:30 on this video:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/I4wFsN60-IQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Good video Mark, thanks for posting it.
I guess I have a different latch than Sup'.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1543863418.JPG

[QUOTE=MBAtarga;10271092] Got it. The small pawl sits against the surface of the strike plate while the larger pawl (tongue thingie) goes into the hole of the strike plate. While the large pawl is extended and the small one is not, the large pawl cannot be retracted using a credit card. It would be a mistake to install this lock, and the strike plate, so that both pawls enter the hole in the strike plate. Glad I asked.

When I am done with this project, I had BETTER ensure that at least one key is available (buried in the back yard or something). Also, at least one electronic garage door opener similarly will need to be outside the structure at all times and available. The reason is because of the lock mechanical failure that created this problem. I busted this door open because the lock mechanism was busted so that the pawl would not retract. If that happens again and the door must be forced open, the door will be destroyed.

^^^ That’s the answer.

I’ve had to remove a few locks where I don’t have a key or the lock was jammed.

I break out the BFH and just tear off the knob. Then use a screwdriver to open the door.

Instead of a sledgehammer you could use a HF $15 angle grinder to get to the slide.
(No damage is done to the door that way.)
Just need to replace the lock.

Hide a greased spare key under a rock in the woods about 5-10 blocks away.

I missed the point. Yes the second piece is the security function. Interior passage locksets (handles) don't have that. Anyway, you might have learned something from my previous post. I did say the question was confusing (to me anyway).

Indeed I do learn from you Zeke. Routinely.

So what route did you take? I'm not a fan of the chisel. Been there, done that. I'd go the dremel route with the router attachment in the blink of an eye.

I'm using the chisel method. My chisels disappeared, so I needed to get some anyway. Plus, I had done this before. It works fine, but I am the world's slowest carpenter. First year carpenter apprentices work five times faster than I, and their work quality is three times mine. I've got a lot of respect for tradesmen.

That said, this door will be quite functional and relatively secure when I am done.

Can't talk ya out of it?
I used to install doors in the manufactured homes I sold. I still think the router attachment for the dremel is the better way to go. You have more control of depth with the dremel attachment. Plus once you have the router attachment you'll find other handy little uses for it.