Another cycling question, which gears to avoid
 

I know that you shouldn't mix the biggest chainring with the biggest cog on the cassette.
http://aleoca.com/main/wp-content/up...ross-chain.jpg

My bike is setup as a 3x8. So, I've got lots of "speeds" at my disposal. What's safe/recommended? Say, the biggest chainring with the 6 highest cogs on the cassette? Then the middle 6 for the middle chainring and then the highest 6 on the smallest chainring? Or should I go even tighter only using 4 or 5 gears on each chainring?

Shouldn't use large chain ring with large cog and shouldn't use small chain ring and small cog. have a go at everything else, you should be Ok

OK, so it is that simple. Good deal.

I am a nerd and a numbers guy, so I was previously looking at the numbers...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1547642235.jpg

Reverse.........

what Asphaltgmbler means is that you have t backwards
the 50 front 11 rear is an overdrive, .220

the only underdriven is the 30 front 32 rear, 1.0667, I've never seen an undriven gear set on a street bike the lowest gear on any of mine is .889(36f/32r)

Don't over think it. Ride. ☺

More than likely you'll never use the 30 front on the road. (Probably wouldn't even use it off road unless you're bikepacking up the Rocky Mountains))

The reason you want to try and avoid cross chaining your chainline is to keep wear on the chain and sprockets to a minimum, and as a plus, it's quieter.

When I was racing the rule of thumb was to try to keep the chain as straight as possible.

An even bigger rule is "always have at least ONE gear left when climbing, just in case!

Duh! I'd been looking at the numbers thinking "why do those look all wrong???" It makes sense that I've got the division backwards and the gear ratios should look more like a car, big numbers for low gears and smaller numbers for high gears. Thanks
Yeah, I tend to over think everything, but when I get out there, I do just ride.

Correct, the small chain ring has been used just to make sure that the front derailleur will hit all 3 and is adjusted well, but not anything else. I just use the middle and big in practice. I think this bike is designed to be used as a tourer. It's got front and rear rack mounts and came with big 38mm gravel tires, so I think it's setup so it could be used for bike-packing. I've tried the first gear just to see what it's like, yeah, I could climb walls or trees with it for sure.

Yep, that's why I was asking, to try to figure out how much of an angle is ok, and how much to avoid to avoid the extra wear.

I know in my case, when I really need another gear, I grab it with no conscious thought to what my chainline is looking like, (Wow! this hill around this corner is way steep! I need my 28 NOW!

HOLY COW! I'm suddenly spinning at 130 and going nowhere! Time for the big chainring NOW!)

Then, when things settle down, readjust the chainline to optimal.

One tip from my old mountain bike days; When you go up one in the front, go down two in the back. That will make smoother shifts.

That was when bikes had 3/5 so the ratio is probably different with the new 3/8 cog sets.

Edit: My first project in Excel (1986?) was a chart like yours where I mapped my gear ratios. :D

No......above I literally ment avoid putting it reverse, as in going backwards, you know like a laugh or two.......

That's a pretty good rule of thumb (use 6 of the 8 on the cassette) for the inner and outer rings. You can shift the whole cassette on the middle ring. If you're on the small ring and small cog on the cassette, your rear derailleur won't be able to put enough tension in the chain, and you'll probably drop it, especially if you're already on the small cog and then downshift in front. On the big/big combo if the chain length is correct you'll have enough chain that it will stay in gear, but won't behave well.

That was how I took it initially, but then thought that maybe I was wrong.

The other rule is that you keep it in the big ring as long as you can, and only shift to the little ring when you have no choice, and if anyone sees you in the tiny ring you have to pretend you're sick or are just (yawn) stretching.

Okay, this isn't a rule except to stupid people. Like me.

If you are diving into it that deep, you might consider just going with a 1x set-up. Plenty of folks running 1x9, 1x10, 1x11, etc. without issue. You get to ditch the front DR/lever/cabling, saving a bit of weight and complexity.
You can either purchase a complete 1x groupset or retro your existing gear by using a few specialty parts (extended rear DR hanger, narrow/wide chain-ring, etc.). Just a thought...

I almost always use the middle ring and work the cassette as the terrain demands. Unless I'm doing a serious climb then I'll spin as much as I must.

roflmao!

:D:D:D

I mean this kindly, but do you have an engineering background or wish you did?

The absolute best way to learn cycling is to buy a couple of books on it from a beginners perspective and then go ride with a patient experienced cyclist requesting that they instruct you on proper gearing, braking (front brake compared to rear %) bike control, riding with cars, hazards (like railroad tracks) ascending and descending, how to take a fall and not get hurt(much), hydration and nutrition and very importantly which tools to carry/how to change and repair a flat. If you can’t change a flat and you miles out with your wife, you’re skrewed.

I think he has that affliction...