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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Alton View Post
The best money I have ever spent on any of my bikes (and I have spent way more than I should have) was to get a GURU fit done. This will dial in the bike to you specifically.
Fk me that bar tape is worth 5 watts at the wheel.

The above is really sound advice.
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Old 02-17-2019, 03:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #101 (permalink)
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Nice tape job. Steve, if you did that, you're better than half the bike mechanics out there.
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Old 02-17-2019, 06:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #102 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Alton View Post
Looking good!

Your seat angle looks a little low- could just be the pic mind you. Set it so you can move to forward on it without discomfort or sacrificing your power...

The best money I have ever spent on any of my bikes (and I have spent way more than I should have) was to get a GURU fit done. This will dial in the bike to you specifically.

Cheers
I did a bunch of work on fit on my own after a lot of reading and video watching when I first got the bike. Not as good as a pro-fit, I know, but it felt good. Since I've been riding it, I've been paying really close attention to how I feel and what's going on with me on the bike. Also, as I've ridden more, I've found that I'm doing things somewhat different (lower positioning, etc...) since I've loosened up.

That's why I've moved the seat post up and angled the nose of the seat down. With the seat slightly nose up, I get a few sore spots from pressure not chaffing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David View Post
Nice tape job. Steve, if you did that, you're better than half the bike mechanics out there.
Yeah, I wrapped them last night. Thanks. I watched a few videos on wrapping, but settled on one from Park Tools to use as my guide.
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #103 (permalink)
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I recall reading a story about seat angle regulations and how they just loosened up the regulations to allow the nose of the seat to angle down more since so many pros have really slammed bar positions. I wouldn't have thought there'd be a regulation on that.

Personally, I feel like I'm sliding off the seat if it's not level.
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:05 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #104 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David View Post
I recall reading a story about seat angle regulations and how they just loosened up the regulations to allow the nose of the seat to angle down more since so many pros have really slammed bar positions. I wouldn't have thought there'd be a regulation on that.

Personally, I feel like I'm sliding off the seat if it's not level.
That mostly comes into play on the pro time trial bikes. They are trying to find every second and comfort takes a back seat. Usually a tilted down seat just means a constant series of "push ups" - butt slides forward, you push it back, over and over. A level seat is usually best.
I helped a doctor friend with his bike. He complained of numb hands and soreness during and after riding. Not good for a surgeon. We leveled out his seat and slid it back on the rails until he could easily "hover" his hands on the hoods for a couple seconds without falling forward. We lowered his seat height a touch because when you move the seat back, you increase the distance to the pedals a bit. Pain and numbness went away instantly. He was about to buy a new bike and already had a "pro fit" at an expensive shop.
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Old 02-17-2019, 12:13 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masraum View Post
I did a bunch of work on fit on my own after a lot of reading and video watching when I first got the bike. Not as good as a pro-fit, I know, but it felt good. Since I've been riding it, I've been paying really close attention to how I feel and what's going on with me on the bike. Also, as I've ridden more, I've found that I'm doing things somewhat different (lower positioning, etc...) since I've loosened up.

That's why I've moved the seat post up and angled the nose of the seat down. With the seat slightly nose up, I get a few sore spots from pressure not chaffing.



Yeah, I wrapped them last night. Thanks. I watched a few videos on wrapping, but settled on one from Park Tools to use as my guide.
I think the nose is too low and you will have to hold your upper body up with your hands and arms. Your shoulders and neck will be very tired during long rides, 2-3 hours. For now, go ride the bike and see how you feel. Later, I suggest you level the seat (try with a slight angle forward, about 1/8-3/16" down if necessary but start with flat) and lower it about 1/4". That soreness will go away unless its seat bone sore from lack of riding, but by you saying the amount of riding you have been doing, I really think the saddle is too high.
Old 02-18-2019, 12:25 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #106 (permalink)
 
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Have to agree that the saddle does ‘look’ nose low for the long ride you are planning. It may well be good for a couple of hours, however you are going to be in the saddle for far more than that....

Saddle height is a tough one. I have slightly difference saddle heights between gravel and road bikes as a result of frame geometry and the stack height of the different shoes. My gravel saddle is lower than the road one, again I’m likely to be on the gravel for 4+ hours rather than the 3-4 on the road bike. A fair amount of trial and erro needed to refine the position.

Liking the bar tape!
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:38 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFAFF View Post
Have to agree that the saddle does ‘look’ nose low for the long ride you are planning. It may well be good for a couple of hours, however you are going to be in the saddle for far more than that....

Saddle height is a tough one. I have slightly difference saddle heights between gravel and road bikes as a result of frame geometry and the stack height of the different shoes. My gravel saddle is lower than the road one, again I’m likely to be on the gravel for 4+ hours rather than the 3-4 on the road bike. A fair amount of trial and erro needed to refine the position.

Liking the bar tape!
Yep, no pro fit guy is going to tell you exactly how to position your saddle. Everyone's a little different. The fitter can get really close, but at the end of the day, its you and the miles and minor fine tuning that's going to make your ass happy. Lots of miles and lot of long days on the saddle, not just a few 40-50 miles ride.
Old 02-18-2019, 12:53 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #108 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by look 171 View Post
Yep, no pro fit guy is going to tell you exactly how to position your saddle. Everyone's a little different. The fitter can get really close, but at the end of the day, its you and the miles and minor fine tuning that's going to make your ass happy (and other bits that are down there). Lots of miles and lot of long days on the saddle, not just a few 40-50 miles ride.
The saddle is angled down by 1* in the front. I've had it 1* nose up, and that's not good, it definitely puts pressure in places that I don't want it that get sore on 2-3 hour long rides. Maybe perfectly flat would be better than 1* down. I'll give that a shot after a ride or two.
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:06 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #109 (permalink)
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One inch up? Damn, you got steel balls. That's starting to get a bit much. I really think you will be happy with the nose pointed up about 1/4". If it still bothering you, drop the post another 3/16-1/4"
Old 02-18-2019, 09:36 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #110 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by look 171 View Post
One inch up? Damn, you got steel balls. That's starting to get a bit much. I really think you will be happy with the nose pointed up about 1/4". If it still bothering you, drop the post another 3/16-1/4"
What? No, not 1 inch, 1 degree. It was 1 degree nose up, now it's 1 degree nose down. I didn't like it nose up, not even a tiny bit. I think the closest that I'll get to nose up is perfectly level.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:53 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #111 (permalink)
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I got a chance to ride this afternoon. The missus was watching our grandson, so I went solo, which meant that I got to push my own pace versus going slow so she could keep up. Unfortunately, I apparently hadn't gotten the HR and Cadence sensors setup with the bike computer successfully when I first set it up, so I have no data for either one of those.

The new bars are much better, huge improvement. It's much more comfortable to be on the hoods and in the drops and even the tops (which I never used before because they were so uncomfortable) are more comfortable. I can now either be in the drops or be on the hoods with my arms bent comfortably. I feel like the narrower bars (I went with the 40cm) and different drop curve profile, and even the tops are swept back 3 degrees, all were an improvement. I think the flipped stem may also be a bit of an improvement, but it also puts me in more of an aggressive position which will take a little getting used to. I don't think the drop on these bars is quite as much as the originals, so the total drop may be similar with the flipped stem.

When I try to really push from the saddle, I move my rear back until my sit bones are at the back edge of the seat to get the most power, and I have the seat all of the way back on it's rails, so I think that means that I need to raise the seat a little. I think a higher seat will put my rear more cental vs at the back edge which I think should be better. Is that correct?

I think I'm doing pretty well. I felt like the ride out was into a stiff wind and slow with me pushing against it the whole time. I thought the ride back would have been faster, but I guess I was tired on the way back. 29.9 miles (29.88 according to the bike computer), 2 hrs, avg speed 15mph. Avg speed on the way out was 15.7 and on the way back was 14.4.



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Last edited by masraum; 02-18-2019 at 03:10 PM..
Old 02-18-2019, 02:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #112 (permalink)
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Steve, I have zero to add minus I love the discs! Time to slap some 40s on there and grind some gravel with me!
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:49 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #113 (permalink)
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Nice work, Steve. 15 mph avg for a 30 mile ride is good speed. Sounds like you're getting strong, building form and getting some lungs. Glad the bars are working out for you. It'd be a drag if you had to switch them out a second time!


Quote:
Originally Posted by masraum View Post
When I try to really push from the saddle, I move my rear back until my sit bones are at the back edge of the seat to get the most power, and I have the seat all of the way back on it's rails, so I think that means that I need to raise the seat a little.
I might make a suggestion - check online for "on the rivet". It has to do with your hip's position when you're giving it full gas. I think it might make you reconsider saddle height and angle.

On The Rivet: So what the hell does "on the rivet" mean?

Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:10 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #114 (permalink)
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For you those of with Strava and high end bikes, be sure to set Strava so it doesn't show your start and end location. There are stories of burglars looking for fast Strava times to find where the nice bikes are.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #115 (permalink)
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For you those of with Strava and high end bikes, be sure to set Strava so it doesn't show your start and end location. There are stories of burglars looking for fast Strava times to find where the nice bikes are.
I believe this is the setting that David is talking about.

I haven't checked that box yet, since I'm in an Apt complex with secure doors. And I frequently start my ride not at my apt, but .5 mile down the road.
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Last edited by masraum; 02-19-2019 at 02:02 PM..
Old 02-19-2019, 01:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #116 (permalink)
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Its also possible use Strava simply as a log, that is enter time/distance/description a "manual activity". So you can monitor daily/weekly/monthly activity, but obviously you cant drill into ride data.

If you are one of those people that doesn't like apps tracking you are around and has the phone shut down (as much as possible).
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:30 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #117 (permalink)
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