Entry door mortise lock - unusual adjustment screws? Any ideas?

[Don Plumley]

Our entry door has a lever latch/deadbolt - it's been getting harder and harder to use. I pulled the cover plate off to take a look, and there are two adjustment screws I've never seen on a latch set before:



I liberally put some low-temp grease on the moving bits from the side, and it is better. I tried to play with the two screws, one made the exterior thumb latch easier to use, but the inside lever is still hard to move.

Because it's my front door lock, I don't want to take it out and discover a) I can't put it back together; or b) I break something important and am no longer able to lock my front door.

I searched on the manufacturer "Architectural Iron Works" and think I may have found them (acquired by Longleaf Collection). But as it's a holiday weekend I'm not going to hear back from them until Tuesday.

Any ideas from the Pelican braintrust about this type of mortise lockset?

Thanks!

[tcar]

I had that happen... turned out to be movement in the door jamb relative to the door.

I adjusted (moved slightly) the strike plate... voila'.

[Gogar]

I agree that the problem is usually fixed st the strike plate.

Do those screws change the “throw of the deadbolt? Or maybe the way the thumb screw contacts the bolt. Dunno

[stomachmonkey]

Another vote for bolt and strike plate interference.

My front door becomes a ***** in the summer due to expansion from heat.

Makes sense as the door was installed during spring.

Also have one toilet that will run on during winter unless you jiggle it.

Climactic changes can do weird things to a house.

[Don Plumley]

They are hard to push with the door open. So not strikeplate alignment.

[A930Rocket]

I’ve never heard of the brand but it looks like a nice lock set.

On s side note, I installed two deadbolts yesterday. What a PITA to get the striker plate lined up. There’s about 1/64” clearance around the the bolt and striker. I’ve had to use a Dremel tool to get it to work properly.

[rwest]

I’ve worked on mortise locks that had a single screw there that held the key cylinder from turning and falling out- maybe yours serve a similar function?

[Gogar]

I don’t think you should be afraid to pull the whole assembly out and clean it up and re grease it. It’ll stay together and be much easier to see the guts. You have to remove the knobs and the plate on the door.

[Don Plumley]

Originally Posted by rwest

I’ve worked on mortise locks that had a single screw there that held the key cylinder from turning and falling out- maybe yours serve a similar function?

Ding Ding. When we just went to leave, the key cylinder started to spin around. So had to tighten them back up. Not for adjustment.

Originally Posted by Gogar

I don’t think you should be afraid to pull the whole assembly out and clean it up and re grease it. It’ll stay together and be much easier to see the guts. You have to remove the knobs and the plate on the door.

I've done enough standard locksets to not be afraid of installation - it's more about a) it's very cold outside; b) making an okay situation really bad on a holiday weekend.

I pulled off the inside plate/knobs and that enabled me to get a bunch of grease into the mortise mechanism. Much smoother now.

Of course, the bigger issue that I see is the door could be hung better. It's flush on the hinge side of the jamb and at least 3/8" on the other. But this is a huge, heavy wooden door, so that's a much different project for a different day (and probably another guy).

[Tobra]

Maybe two other guys

Storm door is open, best be sure the front one closes nice and tight

[john70t]

I've always sprayed the internals with WD-40, loosen the mounting screws until just snug, operate the lock until smooth, tighten up the mounting screws.
That way it aligns itself.

[drcoastline]

Don,

When you say getting hard to use?

My first question is, is the mechanism equally hard to use if the door is in the closed position and the open position? or does everything move as it should when the door is in the open position but hard in the closed position?

Second question. Is there any sign of contact in the form of scratches, shiny metal that does not match the patina on the rest of the hardwarde around the deadbolt, catch, jamb plate etc.?

Third, Do any of the screws on the upper hinge and/or second hinge down. Both on the jamb and door appear to be loose? Get a screw driver and tighten each screw by hand any difference?

[dad911]

That looks like a heavy door. Check the hinges and hinge screws.

[Chocaholic]

Originally Posted by Gogar

I don’t think you should be afraid to pull the whole assembly out and clean it up and re grease it. It’ll stay together and be much easier to see the guts. You have to remove the knobs and the plate on the door.

AH...until that tiny spring ejects itself across the room never to be found again. And so quickly, you have no idea from whence it came!

Kidding, of course.

[Don Plumley]

Thanks for all the replies.

The hinges are good (other than needing to move the bottom of the door over about 1/16").

The issue is something inside the mortise lock mechanism is binding on the lever side. My lubrication/tightening has made the thumb latch as smooth as butter now. But when you press down on the inside lever - door open or closed - it's binding inside and hard to turn.

The manufacturer contacted me so I'll see what they say (which based on initial response is "buy a new mechanism.")

Thanks again.

[Gogar]

Does it bind when you lift the lever as well?

[Don Plumley]

Originally Posted by Gogar

Does it bind when you lift the lever as well?

Just down. It returns to the normal position easily.

Spoke with the customer service manage on Monday - he called me. It's a super-duper nice unit. Architectural-quality $tuff. He cautioned me about opening the mortise box as it has springs and ball bearings inside, they tend to explode out. The mortise box alone costs far more than a standard lockset

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by rwest

I’ve worked on mortise locks that had a single screw there that held the key cylinder from turning and falling out- maybe yours serve a similar function?

Yes, many have 2 screws.

Originally Posted by Don Plumley

Just down. It returns to the normal position easily.

Spoke with the customer service manage on Monday - he called me. It's a super-duper nice unit. Architectural-quality $tuff. He cautioned me about opening the mortise box as it has springs and ball bearings inside, they tend to explode out. The mortise box alone costs far more than a standard lockset

Loosen those 2 screws and make sure that lock cylinder is centered. Also, did you turn it in any? Sometimes you have to turn the LC out one full turn and set the screws. Same if too far out and it will go in one FT and not bind. I usually use the key itself to turn the cylinder. If it seems the key is getting too much strain and might break, it is. Don't go there.

Yeah, don't open it. The issue is 90% external. I've installed hundreds of these, all brands. PM me with specifics.

[Evans, Marv]

For lubricating door mechanisms, hinges, etc., I use Boeshield T-9. It seems to do a great job lubricating, as a corrosion barrier, and lasts a long time. I use it on almost everything.

[Don Plumley]

Thanks for the offer, Zeke. I'll definitely call on you if needed.

It seems the lube is doing wonders. The outside latch is like brand new; inside lever getting better.