it's going together.
carbon fiber driveshaft, wavetrac differential, new brakes and...
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Managed to get silver down yesterday..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1708303204.jpg

Looking good, Ted & Guy!

I worked on this little Sea Snark today when the sun finally showed up. I removed some big cleats that were on the aft ends, removed a bracket that I think was for a trolling motor and relocated a cleat into the spot where the bracket was. The holes didn't line up so I chose the outermost hole and will fill the other with epoxy and will only have to drill one hole through the stern, this way I will have a cleat at the bow and stern in case I want to tie up to the pier at the cabin. I plan to fill in the holes where the cleats were located, I've seen people use Gorilla Glue for making repairs as it doesn't dissolve the styrofoam under the ABS so I have some clear Gorilla Glue for that. I also want to refurbish the wood rudder. There is a strip of missing material that isn't very deep and I thought I could probably fill it smooth with epoxy and then varnish the heck out of the thing and then seal it up with a waterproof sealer. I still need to wash the sail and wash the hull with some dawn dish detergent and she will be almost ready to sail. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...459b75038a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4b8c2c9624.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...07274ec391.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9aafc0f453.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f0adf3fbf4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2a26a06614.jpg

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Question for those who work with wood concerning the Sea Snark rudder. Aside from making a new one, how would you go about repairing this. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...297f0762ed.jpg

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Replace with new plywood. Easier and better in the long run. If a section of plywood delaminates then the remaining is suspect. Perfect template, easy peasy

Is that a single layer of the plywood veneer has come off?

Yes.

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Yes, single layer and only that skinny strip.

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Other side is fine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...980fc85fff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9396e78e6d.jpg

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I'd try to route a uniform channel, glue in a strip of wood and maybe follow up with a single layer of glass.

Best
Les

Fill it with micro and epoxy then sand the glass then paint

Well, I'm limited by tools I guess because I don't have a router. What is "micro"?

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He might mean micro balloons or phenolic. We had that in the '60's along with cabosil to make resin paste.

Put about 20 coats of ploy on it and let it go.
It ain't perfect but it ain't broke either.
But if you you have the time to replace it go for it.

Thanks for all the suggestions and tips guys I truly appreciate y'all.

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One of my dealers brought this over:

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LOL, it doesn't have the dildo handle or I wouldn't have touched it. The exact model is not pictured on Google but this one has a hand imprint in a bronze plate that when depressed activates the machine. All mechanical like an old pinball machine, no tubes or transistors. Takes a nickel so it's old.

Needed a small coil is all. But no one does this stuff. It's not my main gig. I really don't know how those jukebox guys do it. I tried to fix one and failed.

Maybe I should try again.

^^^ You forgot to mention where you landed on the love meter spectrum...

Never the same place 2wice. Since it is 100% mechanical, you could maybe time your hit but it runs through the 'choices' rather quickly. I figured there are 24 possibilities but there are 48 taps to the lights and the 2nd sequence differs from the first. You'd have to know that. It helps to expose the workings.

Frankly I don't know how this thing has survived. It has never been restored.

Got the insignia on.. backmask and white today.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1708522150.jpg