Clunky Subaru

[1990C4S]

My girlfriend drives a 2014 Subaru Forrester, 5 speed, roughly 80,000 miles on it. The car has four snow tires on right now.

When I make a sharp turn at low speed it feels the the AWD system is 'fighting itself', a bit clunky and jerky, sometimes gthere is a bit of noise, maybe the CV?. It is sort of like driving a car in 4WD low on pavement, but not nearly that bad.

It feels to me like it might be worse in reverse, but it's subjective, I am not 100% certain that is true.

At normal speeds the car is very good, I only feel this at low speeds, and only with the wheel cranked.

Is this normal for a Subaru? Or is this a symptom of a mechanical AWD issue?

[LakeCleElum]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

My girlfriend drives a 2014 Subaru Forrester, 5 speed, roughly 80,000 miles on it. The car has four snow tires on right now.

When I make a sharp turn at low speed it feels the the AWD system is 'fighting itself', a bit clunky and jerky, sometimes gthere is a bit of noise, maybe the CV?. It is sort of like driving a car in 4WD low on pavement, but not nearly that bad.

It feels to me like it might be worse in reverse, but it's subjective, I am not 100% certain that is true.

At normal speeds the car is very good, I only feel this at low speeds, and only with the wheel cranked.

Is this normal for a Subaru? Or is this a symptom of a mechanical AWD issue?

Kinda normal for any make when in 4WD/Low on pavement.....Try it in 2WD and now worries if problem goes away....

[1990C4S]

It's a Forrester, with full time AWD, I don't think it can be bypassed.

[pavulon]

Not normal. My (08) Scubie also on winters is butter smooth in full lock turns. The center diff is not a clutch type diff but I suppose the rear could be. Either way, mine has never acted weird like that and is at ~130k miles.

[fastfredracing]

Maybe check and make sure all your tires are inflated correctly, and worn fairly evenly

[cabmandone]

Check ball joints. I had one go bad on my 95 that when you turned you could feel it in the steering wheel. BTW it's not normal for the car to feel like it's fighting itself. My 95 did great on snow or dry pavement. A 14 has trac control so if there are no codes It's not a wheel speed sensor or something silly that's messing with the AWD system I'd say.

[dad911]

Our 2015 Forrester never behaved like that.

[sammyg2]

Dumb question:
Do the lug nuts seat correctly with the snow tires installed?

[DonDavis]

Make sure all tires are the same exact size, too. Any never tow an AWD Subie with 2 wheels up and the other 2 on the ground.

*edit* Just reread the OP, are the tires same size as factory recommends?

[1990C4S]

Thanks for the suggestions. I had not thought of it until now, but I did replace a snow tire a month ago. The one new tire is exactly the same as the other three, with only about 2,000 miles less, so I doubt that is the issue, but it is something to look at. Tire pressure may be a contributor also.

Snow tire rims and lug nuts fit correctly.

[Bugsinrugs]

Maybe check fluid levels. The all wheel drive is driven by a viscous coupling. Just a thought.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Thanks for the suggestions. I had not thought of it until now, but I did replace a snow tire a month ago. The one new tire is exactly the same as the other three, with only about 2,000 miles less, so I doubt that is the issue, but it is something to look at. Tire pressure may be a contributor also.

Snow tire rims and lug nuts fit correctly.

Even new tires can have a slightly different circumference.

Subarus: Subarus have, to our knowledge, the tightest tolerance of any AWD system. Since we see so many, we can tell you what the tolerance is. It can be stated in two ways: The first is 2/32nds tread depth across all four tires. The problem with this is that actual tire dimensions can vary from brand to brand and even from model to model. Therefore the 2/32nds rule is only good if you have the exact same size, brand, and model tire. The other way to check is to measure the tire around the circumference and then the tolerance is 1/4". That was circumference, not diameter, so you have to have a flexible tape ruler and measure around the tread of the tire. Also, having air in the tire affects the circumference. Though the change due to having air in it is only about 1/8", it's pretty critical since the tolerance is only 1/4". Therefore, to get an accurate measurement, it's necessary to let the air out before you measure (since the prospective replacement probably won't be aired up). This second method allows you to check compatibility with any make or model of tire. When we were almost finished with this article, a Subaru came in that needed only one tire, so the picture shows us measuring the prospective replacement tire with our "Subaru Tool".


You may ask what the big deal is? Well, on the Subarus, if all four tires aren't matched within 1/4" around the circumference, you will break the transmission, not maybe or sometimes - it definitely happens. Granted it won't happen overnight, and the AWD on many Subarus can be disabled, but the transmissions can definitely get ruined and then they have to be repaired or replaced. Then the cost will be a lot more than the cost of tires!

Source.

[SCadaddle]

"Granted it won't happen overnight, and the AWD on many Subarus can be disabled..."

At least up through the 2005 models, there is a place either under the hood or in the fuse box to place a spare fuse to temporarily disable the AWD and put it in front wheel drive only mode. You might try that to see if it resolves your issues. When the AWD is working correctly, you should be able to do full steering lock tight turns in a parking lot without the wheels binding up and "hopping"---think doing a "donut" here. Try it both ways left and right. Otherwise, something is wrong.

[sammyg2]

on the Subarus, if all four tires aren't matched within 1/4" around the circumference, you will break the transmission, not maybe or sometimes - it definitely happens.

Note to self: never own a soo-ba-roo.

[Bugsinrugs]

I’ve had good service from my 04 WRX. 230,000 miles with four people in the family using it. It’s been reliable and fantastic on snow and ice. I’d get another if this one ever dies.

[DonDavis]

Originally Posted by SCadaddle

At least up through the 2005 models, there is a place either under the hood or in the fuse box to place a spare fuse to temporarily disable the AWD and put it in front wheel drive only mode.

The OP car is a manual 5 speed.
Sounds like you’re talking about an automatic trans.

I’m no expert, but aside from removing the front CV axles, I’m not aware of a method of making a manual AWD a rear wheel drive or vice versa.

[SCadaddle]

Originally Posted by DonDavis

The OP car is a manual 5 speed.
Sounds like you’re talking about an automatic trans.

I’m no expert, but aside from removing the front CV axles, I’m not aware of a method of making a manual AWD a rear wheel drive or vice versa.

You are correct and I stand corrected! The fuse to disable the AWD and put the car in FWD is only on the automatic transmission models and used specifically when you have to put the donut spare on the car as per the owners manual.

My friend has a 4 post drive on lift, where the front wheels of the vehicle drive up and into a saddle, then the rear wheels drive forward and the front wheels in the saddle slide along the horizontal members of the lift until the rear wheels are on the lift. With my automatic transmission Subarus I have to add the fuse to put them in FWD mode and back onto the lift. With my manual transmission Subaru we have to move the front wheel saddle of the lift forward and then drive onto the lift in one step.

[TimT]

Some serious scaremongering posted on the Souza Tires website...and information posted here...

All AWD vehicles are affected similarly..they need to be flatbedded if broken down not towed with one axle in the air..

Want to make it really mindblowing...Then try and figure out how a Porsche with AWD and staggered tire sizes front and rear can successfully exist..especially if the tires are not exactly the same dimensions to less than 0.10"

There are so many variables, tire circumference as measured, true diameter, tire pressure.

And that is not taking into consideration that when there is weight on the tire... the diameter isn't true..the flat spot or contact patch..

And the fact that tires travel different distances when turning...


Say 25" dia= 78.54" circ... so if measured circ is 74.79" ( 0.25 diff) then dia is 25.08...or 24.92...if smaller..

If 0.08" difference in diameter makes Subie transmissions fail... I doubt they would be still making cars..

[TimT]

Clunking usually tells me worn suspension components..... Rhythmic clicking.. CV joints..

At 80K might be time to look at the suspension

[DonDavis]

Originally Posted by TimT

Some serious scaremongering posted on the Souza Tires website...and information posted here...

All AWD vehicles are affected similarly..they need to be flatbedded if broken down not towed with one axle in the air..

If 0.08" difference in diameter makes Subie transmissions fail... I doubt they would be still making cars..

Originally Posted by TimT

Clunking usually tells me worn suspension components..... Rhythmic clicking.. CV joints..

At 80K might be time to look at the suspension

Well said. Got mine with 300,000 miles and it was all original. When I replaced the struts all around, had the wheel bearings replaced, replaced the rotors/pads, flushed brake fluid, timing belt, and a bunch of various gaskets, I was amazed at how well it ran and handled.

Sounds like the OP car might need some suspension love.