Dedicated "break in " oil opinions

[afterburn 549]

I have noticed the assemblance of quite a few brands of "break-in oils" for sale as of late.
Some piston ring manufactures sell a version, even Amsoil.

From "what I think I know" synthetics prolly should not be used, but rather old school dino 30 wt , or non-detergent even.
What is the opinion of the Borg here?

[pwd72s]

Probably depends on the carmaker? I'm probably too old school. However, I'd suggest NOT going a heavier weight then it says on the fill cap. Oil passages designed for a specific weight type thing. Too heavy may slow flow.

That said, when I bought my '09 Mustang, I was told the factory fill was 5-20 motorcraft synthetic blend. No idea who makes it for ford. Manual said don't bother until 5,000. I dumped it at 750 miles, gave the car Castrol 5-20 dino oil to seat the rings, drove it for 1,000. Since then, mobil 1 5-20 every 5,000 or annually, which is usually less than 5,000. Car now has 29,400...I've yet to have to add oil.

[RANDY P]

whatever the builder recommends- or no synthetic.

On my last few new engines, I used standard dino in correct weight (10/30) with ZDDP additive- then I left it in for 500 miles before the 1st change. Then changed it again at 3K.

[speeder]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

I have noticed the assemblance of quite a few brands of "break-in oils" for sale as of late.
Some piston ring manufactures sell a version, even Amsoil.

From "what I think I know" synthetics prolly should not be used, but rather old school dino 30 wt , or non-detergent even.
What is the opinion of the Borg here?

I agree with and use the 30 wt. ND method, especially for a MC engine. I used it w my 911SC motor back in the day and got fantastic results re-ringing Alusil jugs, something that certain members here said could not be done successfully.

There is more to it than just using the ND oil, I use this guy's method and then change out the oil after ~100 miles or so to whatever you are supposed to use in the engine:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

[speeder]

Everything he says is correct about engines.

[Superman]

Originally Posted by speeder

I agree with and use the 30 wt. ND method, especially for a MC engine. I used it w my 911SC motor back in the day and got fantastic results re-ringing Alusil jugs, something that certain members here said could not be done successfully.

I did too. First, I cleaned those cylinders up REAL good. 30W ND oil. Drive it like you stole it.

[quicksix]

I had a motor for my Toyota 4x built by a nationally known builder in Chico, he recommended Joe Gibbs BR30 for the first 400 miles, followed by an oil change, new filter then conventional oil going forward. No synthetic for this motor at all.
Ym(or recco) may vary, builder dependent.

[DanielDudley]

My first thought was also Joe Gibbs.

https://blog.amsoil.com/why-you-should-be-wary-about-using-break-in-oil-in-powersports-equipment/

[Jeff Alton]

We have had good luck with Brad Penn break in oil, Joe Gibbs/Driven and are using Motul Break in oil for the last dozed or so engines with good results. There is likely nothing wrong with using a 30wt ND oil as well.

Cheers

[afterburn 549]

Ended up buying Amsoil 0il break-in oil for better or worse.
I have read every report know to man and Amsoil is always at the top of the charts for quality.
(along with some others)

[gsxrken]

Amsoil is always a safe bet.
We recently picked up a 1969 Mercury Cougar that was running poorly. Turns out it had wiped a cam lobe, probably due to running the wrong oil for the flat tappet camshaft. Went with comp cams cam, lifters, valve springs and retainers and their break in oil to preserve the warranty. There is even some discussion about breaking in the cam with low tension valve springs and then swapping the rap ones in - what a pain- but we were on the safe side of valve spring seat pressure and didn’t have to do that. After the break in, my son elected to run comp cams new muscle car oil as he figured they must have done their homework on what keeps their cams safe, and keep a warranty channel open if necessary.
COMP Cams® - Lubricants
COMP Cams® - Lubricants

[afterburn 549]

Yes, that seems to be a new rage is light springs for a 1/2 hour.
Break-ins are two problems with cures on the opposite end of the Rpm scale now that most all the ring makers are chattering about micro welding.
With really low tension as I have, it is even more important to get this right or have an oil blower

[ficke]

Keep in mind with our 911 dry sump cars that have multiple oil coolers and oil lines that hold quarts of oil even after the sump and oil tank plugs are pulled, that break in oil stays in for awhile.
I prefer to not use it for that reason on these cars, but then again I really do not practice much of a break in procedure warm up readjust valves injectors if mechanical, retighten hose clamps, etc. that is about all I could do.
because many times I would have just rebuilt a engine when I worked in Fairbanks AK. and the owner picked the car up the next day and drove it to Anchorage.
Or when I worked on heavy equipment, I would finish an "in frame" rebuild and the equipment would be in the dirt full fuel for 8 hours the next day.

[afterburn 549]

A 911 system is pretty EZ to purge if you use air and disconnect the oil lines in a couple of spots.